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Messages - blatz

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1966
Kegging and Bottling / Not a Leak but Frozen...
« on: May 26, 2010, 06:54:07 AM »
So in trying to diagnose a mysterious CO2 'leak' in my kegerator, I come to discover that I don't have a leak at all, my kegerator is in fact freezing the kegs in the rear of the unit 

Over the past several weeks I had noticed that my beer had turned slightly hazy and tasted 'thicker' than usual. Now it all makes sense

I've de-iced the cold plate, but am also thinking that I should just buy a digital temp controller and override the dial thermostat on the unit to prevent this from occurring.

I'm just hoping that my now 5 year old kegerator isn't working its way toward an early grave.

Any thoughts or advice out there?

1967
Doh! went to check the wort fill level in the conical as I was wrapping things up and dropped the lid gasket in the wort.

tried to fish it out with a santized hanger, but gave up after a couple of tries and just slapped a new gasket on and called it good.


1968
house IPA on Sunday.

1969
Beer Travel / Re: Alaska Breweries
« on: May 19, 2010, 11:12:44 AM »
Try to get to Juneau and visit the Alaskan Brewery - well worth the trip.

agreed - having a little mini vertical tasting of Smoked Porter with Geoff Larson was an unforgettable time in my 'beer life'.

1970
It's possible that I underpitched, being a lager.  I fermented it a little on the warm side, 54 or so, so I am wondering if that contributes to this.

FWIW, the bock I mentioned above having the same issue was way back when, before I discovered mrmalty.com and thought that a 1/2gal starter in a jug was sufficient for everything  :-[

1971
I know exactly what you are talking about - this happened on a bock I made a few years ago.

Are you certain you had a proper pitch rate and temps (I know you likely did, just covering the bases)? 

One thing you may want to consider is swapping out some of the munich for pils malt. 

I know you said no more cara malts, but some carafoam/dextrine malt may help a touch.

As far as your mash schedule, you could try a decoction or 2.

1972
did your wife see that?  I mean, I know it was the basement, but still...

1973
Pimp My System / Re: Single tier brewframe with diverter panel
« on: May 17, 2010, 05:44:14 PM »
The whirlpool fitting was purchased from Bargain Fittings

Wayne was a great help. He bent the stainless tube to fit the curvature of my keggle. He also put together all the fittings I needed for my oxygenation system.

Wayne - thanks for sending me there - Wayne was super helpful and I ordered my pieces Sat morning and had them when I got home from work. 

Got both a side and center pick up to test out which way I want to proceed.

Cheers!!

1974
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acetaldehyde strikes again
« on: May 16, 2010, 05:12:48 PM »
The most common cause is racking off the yeast cake before the yeast finish its job.  After all the alc is formed yeast do a bit of house cleaning.

+1 that is almost always the problem. 

1975
Ingredients / Re: Anyone use "hop extract" for their IPA's?
« on: May 16, 2010, 05:11:20 PM »
I think NB has what you're looking for also:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/hopshot.html

I've never used it, because I guess I'm one of those bastards that Prof referenced above   ;D ;) who likes all the green tastes of my hops.

I would try it, but it seems awfully expensive - I brew 12gal batches and for my IPA, the 60min addition yields about 35ibus which would equate to about 7-8 of those shots.  I can get the same from 2oz of Columbus.

1976
wahoo, what about using dark munich instead of the light?

1977
I let wort sit in the boiler for 20-30 minutes before I run-off (after chilling to 65 or so)

Immersion chiller

babalu

I am using an IC.  I recently switched back (anyone want to buy a Therminator??)  to IC and can get down to <50df now by recirculating icewater w/ sump pump. I also let it sit for 20min or so before running off.

 I'm only trying to reduce the amount of coldbreak that I pull into the fermenter - with using a bazooka T screen, it seems to suck all the cold break right into the kettle, whereas other people (keith in particular) don't seem to have this issue, so I am exploring other methods to fix this.

1978
Beer Recipes / Re: Black Rye IPA
« on: May 14, 2010, 11:29:28 AM »
Pardon the dumb question, but why are so many of you recommending Carafa be added at the end or having the first runnings pass through it?  Why not add it to the mash tun along with all the other grains?

even though it may be dehusked, I've found (and had judges point it out to me as well >:( ) that Carafa in the full mash lends a roastiness to the beer that shouldn't be there if you're trying to use it mostly for color.   adding it at the end of the mash will reduce the acrid/acidity of the Carafa addition and give you all the color and only a touch, if any of the roastiness.

JMO.

1979
Beer Recipes / Re: Black Rye IPA
« on: May 14, 2010, 11:11:38 AM »
This may be a dumb question but here goes.

What if I steeped the Carafa in my sparge water as I bring it up to temperature?

I think you'd be better off steeping the carafa in the first runnings sitting in the kettle while you are sparging.

1980
It doesnt matter  ;D

yeah it does when you're collecting the slurry  ;)

I don't see how  a hopback is going to lessen the carryover of cold break, esp on something like a helles?

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