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Messages - blatz

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2326
All Grain Brewing / Re: First lager
« on: December 14, 2010, 01:37:56 PM »
What are the consequences of not letting it lager long enough?

it just won't be as rounded, smooth, crisp - lagerlike

that said, I've got a little bit of bock that didn't fit into kegs that I carbonated in a 2L bottle and let sit for a week.  damn is that good stuff, but I know it will be better in 3months time.

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I've been telling my wife I need more beer equipment for some time now.  She seems to think otherwise...

you can tell her I have 4 - you're not nearly as bad as "that guy" (me)

2327
All Grain Brewing / Re: 109% Efficiency!
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:57:58 PM »
Yea but I like the flavor impact a long boil has on my BWs and Wee Heavys.  It is a secondary effect to increase efficiency utilizing a long boil, the efficiency increases because I have to increase my wort collection to compensate for the evaporation losses of a long boil.  Thus my efficiency increases because choose to alter my brewing procedures by performing a long boil (and the need to collect more wort to allow it). 

Energy efficient, nope, not that.

I know - I should have put a smiley after the last sentence - I know there are other purposes, it just seems oxymoronic to put the words more efficient in the same context as boiling longer.  ;)

2328
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Want a bigger better bottle?
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:49:30 PM »
I'm pretty happy with glass & don't mind the extra weight. 

everybody says that until they see one break.

2329
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash Temps
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:41:54 PM »
it doesn't matter whether you fly or batch sparge - the tun is the same  ;)

2330
All Grain Brewing / Re: 109% Efficiency!
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:32:04 PM »
I think the answer is yes and no.

I often leave behind a lot of sugars in the mash (which I sparge a little more to freeze for starters, but that's a different story), which I think is what fred is getting after.

for example, I generally collect 14gal for a 12gal batch, losing 1.5gal to evaporation over a 90min boil and .5gal to hop absorption and dead space to get 12 in the fermentor. 

For an average 1.065 batch of beer, I generally acheive 77% efficiency in collecting my 14gal, but can collect about 3qts of 1.025 starter wort with another sparge while the boil is going on.

if I sparged another 1.5gal through the mash grain bed, I could get another 1.5gal of 1.025ish gravity beer for 15.5 gal but then I would need to boil longer to get down to my batch volume, in this case 3 hours total of boiling given my boiloff rate. 

There would be a little more sugar in the wort at this point since I collected more sugars.

However, I think this is retarded since to save a few $2 in grain by being more efficient I wasted $5 in propane and polluted more as well.

2331
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash Temps
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:16:51 PM »
rot = rule of thumb

2332
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash Temps
« on: December 14, 2010, 12:07:03 PM »
what yeast are you using?

1-2df would be hard to notice - probably needs to be 3 to really tell.  an experiment in Zymurgy would be cool hint, hint

2333
All Grain Brewing / Re: First lager
« on: December 14, 2010, 11:44:51 AM »
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Do you pitch while it is warm and let it slowly cool?
 
NO!!

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Or do you cool to fermentation temps before pitching?
Yes.  I prefer to cool a little lower than planned temp and let it rise - 45, pitch and let rise to 48-50 for ferm. but pitching at ferm temp is okay.

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How many of you cold crash the starter and only add the yeast?  That seems like a huge amount of additional liquid to add to the fermenter to me.
you're right on track here - it takes ~1gal of starter to grow up enough lager yeast - starter beer is gross - don't want that in with the good stuff. i crash all my starters, but I wouldn't dare think of not crashing a lager starter, for precisely the reasons you mention.

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I plan on brewing smaller lagers around 1.040 to 1.070 (pilseners and bocks as an example).  Is there a standard time and temp I should lager these?
 
this is a personal preference thing.  My SOP is anything lighter pils/helles/dort (1.050ish) should be ready after 2-4 weeks lager, dunkel, schwarz, fests and vienna 4-6 weeks, bocks/doppelbocks 10+ weeks.  You'll probably see a dozen or so suggestions posted about this though, you'll have to find what works for you.  

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These are a few concerns for me.  I have one chest freezer to use as a fermenter AND for lagering.  So, I need to plan things a little more so I'm not tying up my freezer.
 get another freezer  ;)

2334
Beer Recipes / Re: irish red ale
« on: December 14, 2010, 11:11:02 AM »
whoa - didn't mean that as an offense - was curious because I've never known flaked barley to require a step mash, but wasn't sure - perhaps you had heard otherwise somewhere which is why I was asking - I only use it a few times a year max.

2335
Beer Recipes / Re: irish red ale
« on: December 14, 2010, 09:28:25 AM »
Going to have to two step it I think with the Flaked Barley but that's not a problem.

what makes you think that?

2336
Ingredients / Re: What's the word on Global Malt?
« on: December 14, 2010, 07:33:39 AM »
Bird is the word.  ;D







sorry, I couldn't help myself.

if the dunkel TM sent me was with global malt, then yes, it does make a wonderful dunkel.

2337
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using Munich Malt
« on: December 13, 2010, 08:03:46 PM »
ok I will have to give the BM light munich a try. looks like they also have a 10-12L dark munich, do you have any experience with it?

No I don't and probably won't for a while. I just ordered myself a bag of Weyermann Munich II. Looks like the price went down. It's "just" $56 now. The price for Weyermann used to be in the 60s.

Kai

Kai - how can you say that when a few posts before you say you're about done with best dark Munich ?

Confused :-[

2338
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using Munich Malt
« on: December 13, 2010, 06:05:06 PM »
I used the FB light Munich this year and didn't care much about the flavor when used as 100% of the grist. I thought it was way too toasty. It aged out after a while but I never really liked these beers as much as I liked others. But I can't compare with a 100% Weyermann Munich I or BM light Munich beer.

Kai

ok I will have to give the BM light munich a try. looks like they also have a 10-12L dark munich, do you have any experience with it?

ummm...check the first page of this thread  ;)

FWIW, I am huge Best Malz fan and typically prefer that over anything else, but I think Weyermann takes the cake on Dark Munich.  More research is needed.

2339
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kai in Popular Mechanics!
« on: December 10, 2010, 12:58:29 PM »
Although we're are going to use a single infusion at 156F.
I was going to decoct but changed my mind.

Ron - that's pretty high on that temp given the grist, OG and yeast, no?

I just did a 50/50 munich I/II bock with 3% caramunich III, mashed at 152, 1.066 OG  and got 76% AA (and this is with super yeast - 4th pitch).

carbed up what didn't fit in the kegs in a 2L bottle and the body is spot on.

Just a data point to consider if you go the single infusion route with these lower DP munich malts.

2340
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What's the record?
« on: December 10, 2010, 08:55:51 AM »
so long as the short lag time isn't the result of pitching too warm or wayy overpitching (like a 1.060 beer on an entire yeast cake) yes, it is encouraging!

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