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Messages - blatz

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: do you use dry yeast
« on: December 10, 2014, 11:11:17 AM »
i prefer liquid yeast, but I wind up using US-05 about as frequently as I do 001/1056.  I do find that US-05 leaves the malt body a little thinner than the 001, even at the same attenuation. 

But sometimes it is what it is - such as this weekend when i am brewing twice - an ESB and an IPA - i didn't plan well enough in advance with my stir plate, so the 007 got on the schedule for the plate and US-05 will be used for the IPA. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Lacking malt character
« on: December 10, 2014, 10:42:45 AM »
2 things:

1). I like to mix up my sparge water additions in about a quart or two of 170df water before adding to the mash during sparging - the CaCl doesn't seem to dissolve well.

2). if i remember, you serve your beers lower carbed, right?  I found when my carb levels were too high on maltier beers, some of the carbonation 'hid' the maltiness.

Equipment and Software / Re: Monster stir plate
« on: December 09, 2014, 02:25:59 PM »
i have something similar in size - lab grade, with settings to the single RPM.

Can't imagine ever needing to stir anything larger than my 5L flask, since if I needed the amount of yeast a 3-5gal jug would make, I'd probably just make a smaller starter to make a batch of APA or something, but to each his own.

thats a great price on that unit.

Beer Recipes / Re: Seeking Old Ale recipes
« on: December 09, 2014, 10:39:17 AM »
I've got my take on Avery Old Jubilation that won me BOS (~380 entries overall) a few years back that I  think would work well. 

will need to send when I get home however.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing over the Holidays?
« on: December 08, 2014, 06:07:42 PM »
ESB, Pimp Slap IPA, and either a Lawson's Double Sunshine or a RuinTen clone.

Ingredients / Re: Golden shroomy
« on: December 05, 2014, 11:11:10 AM »
those are some of the nicest looking shrooms i've seen. 

gotta say, after having a Duvel at a restaurant on draft last night, i can imagine the chantarelles/wee heavy being a good combo, but this one is hard for me to imagine.  keep us posted!

Equipment and Software / Re: any electricians in the house?
« on: December 04, 2014, 11:22:58 AM »
Yeah, I have the breakers too, they just weren't used.  Do you know how many wires are running to your breaker?  3 or 4?

i don't - I want to say 4, but it was installed over 2 years ago and i can't say for sure.

Equipment and Software / Re: any electricians in the house?
« on: December 04, 2014, 11:12:24 AM »
i paid a guy to install mine, so i'm not much help, but he did install a 30 amp GFCI breaker.  it was expensive - around $100 or so, and he had to hit 3 different supply stores before he found one, but it can be done.

i prefer the additional safety.

Instead of pre-chilling water, chill with your normal water to 80-100F or whenever it stops cooling quickly. Then switch to running ice water through the chiller using a pump. It'll be much more efficient and keep a high temperature difference when you get to lower temps.


harborfreight has one for <$40.

and if you can either agitate the wort of the chiller in the wort, it will work even faster.

Ingredients / Re: how much hops for late hop additions
« on: December 03, 2014, 03:16:38 PM »
FWIW, I just did a hop heavy extract kit with loads of late additions. Figures below for a 5 gallon kit.
Hop Stand (Flame out)
-2 oz. Simcoe
-1 oz. Columbus
-.5 oz Apollo

Hop Stand (180 degrees)
-1 oz. Columbus
-1 oz. Simcoe
-1 oz. Amarillo
-.5 oz. Centennial
-.5 oz. Apollo

Dry Hops (First addition)
-1 oz. Simcoe
-.5 oz. Columbus
-.5 oz. Amarillo
-.5 oz. Centennial
-.25 oz. Apollo

Dry Hops (Second addition)
-1 oz. Simcoe
-.5 oz. Columbus
-.5 oz. Centennial
-.25 oz. Apollo

how far away from me do you live  ;D ?

With regard to 'layering', it doesn't make any sense to me to add hops at differing times. Why not all at once?

there may some validity with regard to what Brynildson does - first charge in primary just prior to the end of fermentation and then in the brite tank.  I think we all have noted that there is a bit of a different effect when dryhopping with lots of yeast present and without, however slight that may be. 

I'm on the fence about 2 stage dryhopping.  it seems like a lot of pros do it, and I have a near pro style setup so why not?  but it does add a PITA factor, i'll admit.

How about the oxidation caused by adding dry hops? Is that real and avoidable for a simple homebrewer?

sure it is real - whether it is noticeable in its impact for you is up to your experience.  I have had some IPAs display slight oxidation cues - but I was never able to definitively say it was from dryhops - it could easily have been sloppy racking practices.  I've since been vigilant about flushing my kegs with CO2 always, and being sure to purge headspace anytime I open the keg. 

to your second question - one method to minimize this is to add your dryhops to your keg or secondary carboy/bucket, flush the vessel with CO2 and then rack from primary on top of these hops. 

the other method mentioned in the article is to presoak the dryhops in a small amount of boiled and chilled water and add the entire mixture to the secondary.  I can't vouch for this method, only relaying the message. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Dave Green: Advanced Dry Hopping Techniques
« on: December 03, 2014, 08:14:21 AM »
Came across this article from December BYO - just thought I'd point it out - some interesting points:

Just about all my beers are just a 60-minute addition and a hopstand addition for my kettle hops. The 60 minute addition controls my bitterness, my hopstand controls my flavor and some aroma, then dry hops are primarily aroma with a small amount of flavor.

I don't feel like I've lost anything by moving to this approach. I feel like I've gained more control, and I can now put a lot more hop flavor in my beers than I was ever able to get using traditional late boil hops.

^^^^.  Totally agree. Lately I've been 60 min + 170F hop stand + dry hop, with all the late hops moved to the stand. I like these beers better than most any hoppy beers I've made.

so jon - you're putting almost all your IBUs in at 60, given that you drop the hopstand to 170df first?  just trying to clarify.

I still add some in between 20 to 10 min left to go, but I've never tried bittering + hopstand only to compare.

edit: oops I see you did clarify that.  however, if you dropped to 170 before adding the whirlpool hops, how are you getting more than the 48-50?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: early Great Lakes present
« on: December 02, 2014, 08:35:53 AM »
very cool ken!  jealous  8)

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