« on: January 04, 2016, 09:29:42 AM »
I want to try Belgian Beers. All of them. I worked up a recipe for a Belgian Blonde that I plan on brewing this week. Then I have plans for a Dubbel, Trippel, and a Quad.
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IYAOYAS!Wow, reading through here makes me see a business opportunity for something like this for vallvesFlashback! I was an AO
Personally, I'd use Cascade for everything after 45 mins. I love Columbus but it might be a tad assertive as a flavor hop for this style. But in a pinch it would work fine.
I've never used it outside of bittering, so I have no idea how it would work as a late addition. At the same time, I really don't want this beer to be just Cascade, but I'm not familiar enough with the rest of my hops to know what to use. (This is the second original beer I've brewed since buying them all.)
Of what you have on hand, you could use Amarillo or even Crystal @ 15 mins. Crystal is a lager hop that works well in ales. Like I said the Columbus would work ok too, if need be.
Yup. Had this happen with a wheat beer. Made a Kristallweizen (unintentionally).Thaw it out, keep on trucking
+1. You may find out it's one of the clearer beers you've made.
I can't stop looking at mine. I have a clear fermenter for that very reason.I was thinking more like, "You've been brewing for 17 years and you still check your fermentations that early/often?" After my first 2-3 batches, I stopped checking earlier than 2-3 weeks unless it was needed for something like dry hops or temperature adjustment. I've never once had an issue with yeast that was DOA, and I just trust it to do its thing after I pitch.Perhaps I am inpatient. Never had to wait this long with any yeast in 17 years of brewing. Pitched rehydrated yeast 8 hours ago.You've never had to wait 8 hours to see yeast activity?
For a while I've been fining with gelatin to drop the yeast out first, then dry hopping. I feel that it gives the dry hop character a longer life since there is much less yeast to bind hop oils to (then settle out). I agree that fining after dry hopping causes a noticeable drop off in hop aromas and character.
Avoid the confusion by not worrying about what the mash pH is at mash temp. All the literature, spreadsheets, calculators, are set up for room temp readings. It's an arbitrary choice to do so because it is useful to remove a layer of confusion. This is the point of standards.
In addition to dialing in your system with the test mashes, the "crush your grain until you're scared" comment is not only funny, it's true. My initial gap setting from the factory with my Barley Crusher was .039", I've dialed it down to .035". I can probably go finer, but I'm happy with the results. On my system that took me from 65% to around 70% efficiency. I also mash at 1.75 quarts of water per pound of grain. That works well for my Blichmann kettle and false bottom. Lauter speed is good, and I haven't ever gotten a stuck sparge (well, that one time when I used 20% rye and the mash turned into cement ).Which mill did you purchase and what factory gap setting did it come set to?
+1 to always checking the crush prior to doughing in.
MM2 Pro, .045"