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Messages - malzig

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391
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drainage time
« on: March 02, 2011, 05:25:51 AM »
IIRC back when MC became a "hit" there were several people - including Kai - who said the malt was more difficult to crush. The malt was not "rubbery" - my mill just wouldn't crush it as well. Perhaps it has something to do with mill settings. I have mine set very tight.
Perhaps, I can't speak for other people, but I crush quite tightly (85%+ typical mash efficiencies) and malt condition most every batch, now, and I have no noticeable difficulty crushing the grain by hand.  Perhaps it's a difference in the standing moisture level in our grain.  I may be returning my grain to the proper moisture level and you may be at that level, already, and exceed it with conditioning.

I have to store my grain with desiccant because of high humidity, which may have contributed to brittle husks and gradually slower lauter speeds.  Malt conditioning allows me to run the drain wide open and fast, so that I add 1 minute to my process at the beginning and save 5-10 minutes at the end, potentially more.  It sounds like the OP could save an hour.

It's a process that has only upsides, for me, and I even suspect it may be contributing to the improved clarity of my beer, lately.

392
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drainage time
« on: March 01, 2011, 05:03:48 PM »
There was no build up on the rollers. It just caused my motor to have to work much, much harder to turn my rollers. With a more powerful motor it would not have been an issue.
I use the hand-crank and malt conditioning doesn't make it any more difficult.  Perhaps you let it sit too long and the grain got rubbery.  I don't really wait any time after spraying the malt with water, just the time it takes for me to weight out the rest of the malt.

Anyway, it's fine that some people have well tuned systems that don't run better with malt conditioning, but the OP has a problem that has a very high probability of being resolved by the very simple technique of spraying a little water on some of his malt.

393
All Grain Brewing / Re: Small batches and DMS / SMM
« on: February 26, 2011, 12:48:17 PM »
I make primarily 3 Gallon batches in a 5 gallon kettle and I have no DMS issues that I can detect. 

I don't find that DMS is much of an issue unless I'm brewing with Pilsner Malt.  Then I can really smell the DMS escaping during the boil, but I've never had DMS problems with Pilsner Malt beers, either.

It's going to be hard for you to keep the boil-off to 1/2 gallon, from my experience, which means you'll end up boiling off a higher percentage of the wort with small batches.  That should further decrease DMS.  Even at 0.5 gallons of evaporation, you'd be above the 8-15% evaporation recommended for DMS removal.

394
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Black and Tan
« on: February 25, 2011, 03:58:01 AM »
These are also really common in the Czech Republic, where the mix Czech Dunkel and Pilsner.  They don't bother trying to keep the layers separate, though.  A lot of pubs will even list 3 beers on the menu, a Pilsner, a Dunkel and a mixed beer (sometimes called an Amber on the menu).

395
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Black and Tan
« on: February 24, 2011, 07:37:45 PM »
Yes, a "black and tan" would be a very offensive thing to order in Ireland.

396
All Grain Brewing / Re: Protein Coagulation
« on: February 23, 2011, 04:14:45 AM »
Brewing Science and Practice by Briggs, et al, p121, says that the Oberteig (which is what this layer of mud is called) is made of a gel-like material made of about 20% Protein and 40% Carbohydrates and micro-aggregates made of about 4-21% Starch, 3-19% ß-Glucan, 5-31% Pentosan, and 26-42% Protein. 

I get significant amounts of Oberteig even when I use a single infusion.  I may get more when I step mash (independent of whether I decoct), but I've never tried to quantify it in any way.  I may just expect more because I expect time at a higher temperature should result in more precipitation.  I do modify my water to correct pH and Calcium levels, which should be a factor, just as it is in the boil.  I also tend to get crystal clear beers without significant cold conditioning, often right out of primary or within a couple days of completing carbonation.

I can't find the reference at the moment, but I've read that significantly more protein precipitates in the mash, actually, than in the boil.

397
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Black and Tan
« on: February 21, 2011, 08:40:31 AM »
black & tan is traditionally bass & guinness. the harp & guinness is a half & half.
This is an important distinction since the Black & Tans were a well-hated British occupying force sent to Ireland during the revolution.  So, a Black & Tan could never be made by mixing two Irish beers.

398
All Grain Brewing / Re: EZ Water Calc 2.0 question
« on: February 17, 2011, 04:51:18 AM »
A 90min boil from 6.5gal to 5gal would give you a 30% increase, thats pretty substantial.  I understand that the recommendations are probably based off of base water analyses from the origin of the various styles.  I just think it would be worth switching to final boil levels going forward, its more accurate that way.  Then when we say "my beer has 300ppm SO4" we will know its that and not something between 330 and 390.  With these forums we've got the ability to quickly accumulate data to give us new guidelines.
Many ions will change more significantly during the mash and boil due to chemical interactions than they will due to concentration.  So, unless you are willing to analyze the final beer, concentrations in the final beer would be an estimate, at best.

399
All Grain Brewing / Re: EZ Water Calc 2.0 question
« on: February 13, 2011, 05:24:42 PM »
 For example, I have fairly soft water (see screenshot below).  In an oatmeal stout recipe I brewed last weekend, I used 6g CaCO3 + 3g NaHCO3 in the mash to achieve a measured pH of 5.3 (measured with colorpHast strips -- concededly not as accurate as a pH meter).  But according to EZ Calc 2.0, I could have achieved the same result with only 2g NaHCO3 (or a very small amount of some combination of CaCO3 and NaHCO3).
ColorpHast strips read about 0.3 pH units low, so your additions lead to a pH of 5.6.  Perhaps the EZWaterCalculator would have given you an actual pH of 5.3, as predicted.

400
All Grain Brewing / Re: More about water
« on: February 01, 2011, 07:21:20 PM »
There are far better alternatives for reducing HCO3 than a filter like that. Either acid addition or boiling are much better options.
Alternatives, surely, but "far better" seems to be a matter of personal preference.  A lot of homebrewers might find passing water over a filter readily available at the supermarket to be preferable to boiling or sourcing, storing and measuring acid.

The Brita's reduction of 120 ppm HCO3 to 16 ppm seems pretty effective.

401
All Grain Brewing / Re: More about water
« on: January 31, 2011, 06:22:16 PM »
I wouldn't call the filter worthwhile, but it doesn't really hurt the brewing water.  Go for it.
Really?  There's an awful lot of people that want to reduce the HCO3 in their brewing water.

It should also remove much of the organic compounds that can make surface water taste foul in the warm weather.

402
All Grain Brewing / Re: Modified batch sparge?
« on: January 31, 2011, 04:33:29 AM »
Good simple way to put it.

It never occurred to me to think that No-Sparge implied a mashing technique, though.  I like to use No-Sparge for German beers, to minimize astringency and since they are relatively low gravity.  I typically mash these at ~2 qt/#, usually with a beta and alpha step mash by infusion, often even with a decoction, and finally run out at around 3 qt/#.

403
All Grain Brewing / Re: More about water
« on: January 31, 2011, 04:12:36 AM »
Yes, ion exchange and carbon.
Here's what a Brita filter did to my water:
Tap:

Calcium   46
HCO3   121
Total Alkalinity   99

Brita:

Calcium   8
HCO3   16
Total Alkalinity   13
I always stayed away from using a Brita filter for brewing water because I knew it removed calcium.  However, for brewers with high HCO3 alkalinity, it might be a very good choice.  You can always add Calcium back and the water will probably taste better thanks to the activated Carbon.

404
All Grain Brewing / Re: Modified batch sparge?
« on: January 30, 2011, 06:35:16 PM »
I always assumed "no-sparge" meant you did a regular mash and just didn't sparge at all.
True, but you're not doing a sparge, you're doing a mash infusion. 
In a Batch Sparge, you wouldn't count a mashout infusion as a second sparge, either.

405
All Grain Brewing / Re: More about water
« on: January 30, 2011, 06:31:38 PM »
Here's what a Brita filter did to my water:

Tap:
Potassium   3

Brita:
Potassium   18
I'm surprised too.  Did you take the tap water sample at the same time as the brita sample, or were they some weeks/months apart?  The reason I ask is because of the ones that increase.  Sodium is probably within the margin of error, but potassium going from 3 to 18 seems like a big change.
Brita filters are good at removing temporary hardness, as well as metals, but gradually release potassium into the flow through.

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