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Messages - malzig

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: March 28, 2013, 03:36:01 AM »
Yes, you can sparge with RO water.

Have you used Maris Otter or Pale Ale malts in other beers and did you like the flavor?  I'm just thinking that you are looking for a clean malt flavor and are choosing complex malts, so you might be better served by a mildly flavored Canada Pale Malt.  Complex malts will also compete with hop aroma and make it seem lower.

Similarly, British yeasts don't often respond well to early racking.  Can you recognize and are you tasting Diacetyl?  This is described as a butter flavor, but at low levels and mixed with complex beer flavors it can taste like a vague "dirty" flavor or like rubber.   It will also compete with hop aroma.

Simcoe and CTZ can be wildly variable in flavor and are sometimes quite unpleasant.

Hop aroma can be hard to get into beer.  Dry hopping will do it, but can add oxygen and grassy flavors.  Many brewers have very specific dry hopping schedules to get the profile that they want.  I've had luck refreshing the hop profile by dry hopping the keg.  You are probably not getting much aroma from your flameout addition.  One thing that you could try would be to allow the wort to chill to 175F, then add your late hops and let it stand for 15-30 minutes before chilling further.  This can add a lot of aroma.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Oops...Session IPA
« on: March 26, 2013, 03:54:58 AM »
What can I say, I use a gram scale to measure my additions :)

Don't discount those extra 2g!  Should have been 4g though ;)
Absolutely, 2.19 oz. just can't compare to 2.26 oz.! 
However, I appear to prefer greater precision since I use hundredths of an ounce...

All Grain Brewing / Re: Oops...Session IPA
« on: March 25, 2013, 06:27:58 PM »
It's the 2g in the 62g that really make it work. ;)

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hard packed grain bed - efficiency spike
« on: March 24, 2013, 09:17:12 AM »
I'm assuming the flow rate for your run off was slower than usual?  If so, that is likely the reason your efficiency was improved.  If you are willing to spend the time, high efficiency is possible.
Highly unlikely that flow rate will result in any improvement in efficiency for a batch sparge.  Unless, perhaps, if it results in a slightly longer mash.

Crush, temperature and thickness, however, have all been shown to effect mash efficiency.  Get it all right and you get reliable mash efficiency because it is always the result of complete conversion.  Then, grain weight becomes the only variable between batches.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-in
« on: March 23, 2013, 05:45:15 AM »
I switched to grain-to-water soon after I started because it made hitting mash temperature easier while I learned how much heat I lost to the tun.  After a few batches I had that figured out and it saved me a couple steps by grinding directly into the tun and adding water-to-grain.  Less dusty, too.

Just make sure you wash first.  Washing with a peroxide cleaner, like PBW or Oxyclean, will likely kill and remove most of the bugs before it ever even sees sanitizer. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Does increased mashout temp boost efficiency?
« on: March 20, 2013, 04:34:07 AM »
A mashout can help, but, for the problem that it helps, you might see the best effect on increased efficiency by raising the temperature into the 158-162F temperature range.  At that point you are improving gelatinization but maintaining amylase activity longer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation
« on: March 17, 2013, 09:44:37 AM »
I bottled a DIPA (extract recipe) 10 days ago.  Last night I opened one and there was little to none carbonation.
I like to give it a very SLOW and easy stir, to avoid oxidation, with a sanitized spoon about every sixth beer poured. This will keep the sugar suspended more evenly throughout the beer.
The sugar was put in the racking bucket and then the beer was added.  I didn't stir for fear of oxidation but will try your method next time.  Thanks.
Like others have said, it is probably just too early.  There is probably some carbonation, but you may not notice it if you are used to highly carbonated beer.  Did the bottle "pfffft!" when you opened it?

It can help to stir at the beginning, even though just racking can be enough, if you get a a bit of a vortex going.  Stirring during bottling is unnecessary, since you boiled the sugar in water and dissolved sugar will not settle out.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Different color from keg to carboy
« on: March 17, 2013, 04:43:51 AM »
So, if I understand right, you mashed your grain, drained the tun, then added more water, then drained the tun again to get your second 5 gallons.  You boiled the two runnings separately to make two beers, and the second was darker than the first.

That is odd, usually the first runnings will be darker than the second runnings.

Out of curiosity, did you take the OG of the second beer?
Did you remember to boil and hop the second beer?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Switching to All Grain
« on: March 16, 2013, 01:29:38 PM »
Quaternary ammonium is also used as a sanitizer in the brewing industry. One brewpub I have done a couple of my recipes at use it to sanitize the floor IIRC. The brewers call it "Death Spray".
Sanitizing floors?  Man I hope that doesn't leach much - I just mashed a dubbel in my white marine cooler - I guess I'll call it "Death Spray Dubbel"!!
It's also used in the food industry for sanitizing things like cutting boards, as well as being in things like handcream and shampoo, so it is probably in a lot of food that you eat.  Polypropylene is also the common plastic used for baby bottles and quaternary ammonium is also part of Bactine, wet wipes, hand sanitizers and eye drops, so you are going to continue to get exposed.  It has been considered to be safe in the trace amounts that we would expect to see, and any research indicating otherwise is still considered preliminary, by most.

I assume that the "death spray" nickname is just a joke.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Switching to All Grain
« on: March 16, 2013, 07:26:41 AM »
BPA is in #7 plastic (confirmed in the article posted). Plastic coolers are #2 plastic.
My Igloo cooler is HDPE (#2) only on the outside.  The liner is polypropylene (#5), another one of the plastics that are considered food-safe and heat stable, though there may be reasons to avoid going over 160-170F.  PP doesn't contain BPA, but it can release trace amounts of quaternary ammonium, which might have reproductive effects but is also a pretty ubiquitous anti-microbial used in food preparation, water treatment and cosmetics.

I assumed all coolers were lined with the same plastic.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Trub removal
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:14:09 AM »
honestly haven't tasted any difference though in pouring everything from the kettle vs minimizing trub.
I think it's mostly something that homebrewers worry about when they are looking for something new to worry about.
Well, being new at homebrewing I guess I'm a little worried about my 2nd batch not finishing the way I would like it to.   
You certainly won't hurt anything by passing your wort through a strainer, just don't go crazy trying to leave everything behind.

If I recall correctly, the BasicBrewing Radio link above found slightly more hop flavor in the beers that were pitched with all the trub.  I partcipated in that experiment and compared a batch split in half, with crystal clear wort in one fermentor and all the trub in a second.  The resultant beers were virtually indistinguishable. 

This is off topic, but, frankly, there are bigger fish to fry, especialy as a new brewer, and you may have already tackled these problems, but:

For a big beer like that, are you growing up enough yeast?  Are you aerating sufficiently?  Are you controlling fermentation temperatures?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Starter All Grain Equipment
« on: March 12, 2013, 04:31:20 AM »
BIAB does seem like a good way to start, if you want to give it a try before building a tun.  What I can't figure out is where you save an hour or more of time. 

My second kettles sits inside the other, with my pitcher, salts, and thermometer inside that, so it doesn't take more time to move 1 than two.  Juggling the lids can be a little problematic.  Bring those upstairs, fill with water, throw in a little metabisulfate, and start heating the mash water.  Then, my tun is down next to my grain bins.  I grind right into the tun, then use the tun to carry the grain upstairs.  When the water hits strike temperature, it goes into the tun. 

At the end of the day, I carry the tun out to the compost pile, and turn it upside down.  Rinse the tun a couple times with the hose (or the shower, in the winter) and it goes back down cellar.  Wipe the kettle clean, everything goes back inside, and it all goes back down cellar.

I suppose I could streamline that to only 1 trip downstairs with 1 kettle and a bag, but that's only 2 minutes at the beginning and end of the day.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Trub removal
« on: March 11, 2013, 07:27:40 PM »
honestly haven't tasted any difference though in pouring everything from the kettle vs minimizing trub.
I think it's mostly something that homebrewers worry about when they are looking for something new to worry about.

All Grain Brewing / Re: hochkurz mash
« on: March 08, 2013, 10:07:42 AM »
I recently did a hochkurz decoction mash for a Doppelbock and I hit all of my temps dead on.  I didn't see any increase in efficiency, but I really liked this decoction method and I plan on using it for all my future lagers.
Any benefit of a Hochkurz or decoction on efficiency is going to be by improving your conversion rate, so it depends on what your conversion efficiency is already.  Brewers that are already getting near 100% conversion can't get a higher mash efficiency from techniques like these because there is no room for improvement.  It's the brewers that usually see something like 70% efficiency that can see an efficiency increase.

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