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Messages - flars

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1
Look at Northern Brewer's Dead Ringer.  All Centennial hops in the recipe.  American Amber Ale is all Cascade hops.

Recipe available on web site.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Should I transfer to secondary?
« on: July 15, 2017, 06:01:14 PM »
The trub may begin to cause off flavors in two to four months, with lighter beers.  You'll want to bottle before a month is up though to keep hop flavors and aromas from fading.

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hops - Bag or No Bag
« on: July 15, 2017, 06:11:26 AM »
The hops added to the boil kettle do not need to be in the fermentor.  The only hops that would be added to the fermentor would be for dry hopping if part of the recipe.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck Fermentation
« on: July 13, 2017, 10:30:04 PM »
Did you use a refractometer or hydrometer for specific gravity?

5
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Attenuation question
« on: July 13, 2017, 10:27:45 PM »
Do you use a refractometer or hydrometer for specific gravity?  The refractometer won't be accurate in the presence of alcohol.

Everything you are doing seems right.  Would need some details on the fermentation if the problem is not with using a refractometer.

6
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Final Gravity?
« on: July 12, 2017, 12:10:42 PM »
You should confirm that final gravity has been reached in the primary before racking to a secondary clearing vessel.  You can also skip the secondary vessel if not adding fruit, oak, fermentables, etc.  The beer will clear nicely in the primary given enough time.  Three weeks is my typical primary time for most ales.

Your beer may not have finished fermenting in five days.  The bubbles you see in the air lock may just be CO2 coming out of solution or the fermentation trying to finish.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experience from weekend brew.
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:58:11 AM »
I would use a nylon bag.  Like the paint strainer bags.  Muslin may swell too much and not allow free flow of the wort through.  The bag needs to be large enough to not become tight when the hop pellets swell.  I think(?) a one quart bag will hold 1 ounce of hops without becoming too tight.

I throw my hops in the boil kettle without bagging.  I pour from the boil kettle into a bucket lined with a fine mesh grain bag.  Tubing from this buckets spigot goes to the fermentor.  At the end of the pour lift the bag to drain the wort from captured hop debris.

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxidation? Is there any recovery
« on: June 22, 2017, 04:30:12 PM »
A pale ale bottled for 5 months may begin losing flavor.  Taste a SG sample and decide.  If you would decide to bottle leave the stuff floating on the top in the fermentor.

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation temp too low?
« on: June 22, 2017, 05:00:46 AM »
Uncover the thermometer before you do anything else.  The evaporation of the water from the t-shirt is probably cooling the thermometer more than the beer.  Tape the thermometer to the side of the carboy with some insulation over it to isolate it from ambient air temperature.

10
Beer Recipes / Re: Re evaluating hefeweizen hatred
« on: June 21, 2017, 04:38:21 PM »
Over pitching WY 3068 and fermenting cool will result in reduced banana and distinct clove flavor.  Under pitching stresses the yeast and then combined with a high fermentation temperature results in the over the top banana.

I only care for some banana when it is the background.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fermentation: carboy or bucket?
« on: June 17, 2017, 11:10:31 AM »
I like glass carboys.  You can see what is going on and an unforeseen extended primary doesn't result in much risk of oxidation. 

I still use my original carboy from 1987 for big beers with very active yeast.  It is a big carboy.

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Super Agata Capper Question
« on: June 08, 2017, 09:27:11 AM »
One of the possible problems may be the height adjustment is off.  Does the gap under the handle and the capper body close when crimping a cap?  When this gap closes all the force exerted on the lever is transferred to the capper body instead of moving the bell further downward.  I use plastic discs under the bottle to raise them higher.  I have the older button height adjustment Agata.  Some bottles are just a little shorter than others.

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: priming individual bottles
« on: June 07, 2017, 10:14:54 AM »
During transfer to keg I would like to do a couple of bottles as well. I have a beer gun which is a pain for me to use with my setup and have not had much luck with. I have not bottled with priming sugar in quite some time. Any feedback regarding amounts of sugar per 12 oz bottle to reach 2.4-2.5 vols of CO2? Using some quick calculators it looks like about 2g table sugar per bottle.

Domino Dots are 2.29 grams apiece.  They will fit through the mouth of a standard beer bottle.  The Dots are 198 cubes per pound.

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast calculator
« on: May 30, 2017, 04:15:46 PM »
Something doesn't seem right.  Five gallons of OG 1.042 beer using Nottingham requires 18.93 grams of yeast.  Yeast cells required 94.6 billion.  I had always thought an 11 gram pack of yeast had more than enough cells for a low OG beer like this.

15
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Newb Mistake
« on: May 29, 2017, 07:35:07 AM »
Thanks for all the good feedback. I'm letting it percolate and see what happens:)


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Was the beer a save or a dump?

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