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Topics - klickitat jim

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Beer Recipes / Dry Stout
« on: February 26, 2014, 01:58:33 PM »
Just for fun, brewing this today.

8# Golden Promise
2# Pale Chocolate
1 oz carafa II special (just to get the green check mark)

Mashed it at 148°

44g EKG at 60

Going to pitch WY1084 (fresh start off my Irish Red) after 60 seconds of O2. 55° till krausen starts to fall then walk it up to 68° over a week or so.

I'm looking for toasty nutty dry with just a hint of Belfast

Fun stuff

Equipment and Software / Yet another mill setup
« on: February 22, 2014, 05:48:16 PM »
Got my Cereal Killer and found a deal on a blemished counter top. Found a low speed high torque drill with speed adjustment. Added a switch for convenience.

The only trick is trying to support the weight of the drill so it doesn't burn through mill bearings. Not pretty but works for me.

General Homebrew Discussion / The politics of homebrew?
« on: February 22, 2014, 01:20:13 AM »
Liberal- believes that batch sparging is best even if and you have to buy more grain, which is fine because he only has $7 invested in his equipment

Conservative- believes fly sparging is best because corporate breweries do it, plus at 99% efficiency you don't have to buy extra grain, which is good because he's making payments on a new false bottom.

Libertarian- believes that in a perfect brewery you should be able to sparge anyway you want to, or not even sparge at all. Oh, and it's not infected, its funky.

Yeast and Fermentation / Understanding Oxygen Help
« on: February 19, 2014, 01:28:26 AM »
I've done a little reading trying to get my head around this whole oxygen thing. I'll post what I think I have figured out so maybe some of you smarter folks can set me straight if I'm wrong. Here goes.

Sacchromyces don't need O2 to make beer. They can make alcohol and esters and (mysteriously to me) CO2 anaerobically.

But healthy cell membranes are needed for reproduction, for cell protection, and for controlling what passes in and out of the cell.

Saccharomyces with weakened membranes can produce more esters, more phenols, more diacetyl. They can also have less ability to absorb diacetyl, less ability to resist and survive in high alcohol %, and less ability to attenuate to their potential, or do so more slowly.

They need sterols to build healthy membranes. Sterols are steroid alcohols, and ergosterols are unique to fungus. So, saccharomyces can't build cell membranes from plant or animal sterols but they can get them from dead yeast (like in Wyeast Yeast Nutrient) or they can synthesize them if they have fatty acids (present in wort) and O2 (not present in wort because of boiling)

Yeast that come from a fresh stirplate starter are less in need of O2 because they should have gotten enough from the starter aeration process. Yeast that has been harvested from a finished beer has not been exposed to O2 since the stirplate. New generations created in that beer have never been exposed to O2. The only sterols they have are from their parents or from dead relatives.

Each strain of yeast has its own desired amount of O2 for healthy membrane production, but generally range from 8ppm to 12ppm. With aeration you generally can only obtain about 8ppm of dissolved O2 in wort. To get above 8ppm, injection of pure O2 is required.  Also, the higher the gravity of the wort the harder it is to retain dissolved O2.

In summary, if you use fresh yeast from a stirplate, and or yeast nutrient that contains dead cells, and or the beer style doesn't need cleaner esters and reduced phenolics, or doesn't need to fully attenuate or attenuate rapidly, then you can be less concerned about aeration.

If you want to harvest and repitch without a stirplate starter, you might think about your aeration.

If you want a cleaner, or bigger, beer that fully attenuates to that strain's potential, you might want to think about your aeration.

If you don't want to shake 5 gallons for several minutes, or use a pump, or risk contamination from a splashing device and whatever is in the air, or if you need more than 8ppm you might think about injecting O2.

It is possible to get too much O2 in the wort. One symptom could be fusel alcohol (hot solvent flavors). Way way too much O2 could kill yeast as not much lives in pure O2.

But, you don't NEED O2 to make beer.

Am I on the right track?

Ingredients / Too many grain bins
« on: February 16, 2014, 07:13:56 PM »
SWMBO bought me some nice storage bins for grain. So I have 3 that hold about 30 pounds. One holds Vienna and one holds Munich. What base/specialty am I missing out on? Currently I have 60 lb bins for Washington pale, Golden Promise, and Washington pils. Small bins for crystal, red, carapils, and all my roasts.

I'm thinking that unless you guys have another grain similar to Vienna and Munich, I'll just use the last 30 pounder to keep some continental pils on hand.


Yeast and Fermentation / Next improvement Oxygenation
« on: February 15, 2014, 09:47:03 PM »
I'm running out of improvements to do. SWMBO just bought a new freezer for the house, so I inherited a small chest that I'm using for conditioning, carbing, and lagering.

My next, and probably last for awhile, upgrade is O2.

I have the O2 bottles (little red ones) and have ordered the valve/regulator from B3. Won't be using a stone, just 1/4" ID tube. I'll probably oxygenate with the lid on my bucket FV to kind of hold the O2 in the headspace a bit.

1. How long do those little bottles last?

2. How much flow do you use and for how long? I was thinking two minutes with bubbles barely reaching surface, not a full open wild bubbling.


Kegging and Bottling / Rookie NHC question
« on: February 15, 2014, 01:21:41 AM »
Kegging. Would it be appropriate to bring a corny of something good to Seattle to share in the evening? Ya think there would be enough people staying at the Stadium Silver Cloud to justify it? Kind of a mini hospitality room? Or do they all just ignore each other and do their own thing, or hit the town?

Yeast and Fermentation / Ambient vs Actual (sort of)
« on: February 13, 2014, 12:38:32 AM »
I've been running my freezer temp probe just off the ambient air temp. Tonight I'm brewing three beers that will all go at the same temp. So as a trial run to see if it makes enough difference, I'm attaching the probe to the first batch under some insulation. Initially it read 52° but over an hour its at 54°. What I'm hoping for is stability as the yeast goes through high krausen and starts to drop. After everyone has dropped I may ramp it a degree or two per day up to 60-62° until finished. I'll report back with results.

Beer Recipes / Ah ha moment
« on: February 12, 2014, 07:20:22 AM »
I now know what cloying means. Tapped my first run at an Irish Red. Its got potential but 2 lbs carared and a pound of C80 is about double what I need. Actually what I need is a tongue squeegee

General Homebrew Discussion / Wouldn't you know it!
« on: February 12, 2014, 05:30:35 AM »
Told the bride that I was getting burned out on IPA. She did the shopping today and surprised me with a bomber of Ninkasi Maiden the Shade. Says Specialty Ale on the label. No IPA written anywhere on it. I think the special ingredient is about 70 ibus of mosaic lol.

How popular do IPAs have to be that even the 23s are IPAs?

Hey West Coast, there's like other styles to brew. Just sayin

General Homebrew Discussion / Malt head?
« on: February 08, 2014, 01:23:26 AM »
I think I'm getting burned out on hop bombs. Brought home a FW Union Jack and could drink it. Maybe it will pass, but at least for now I can't get enough toasty roasty cararely goodness. Seems like the less hops the better.

Anyone else alpha intolerant these days?

Beer Recipes / Inspired By (clone) Names
« on: February 04, 2014, 04:56:41 AM »
I'm curious if anyone has fun naming their inspired-by beers. I'm going to do an American Stout with 1728 that I'm calling MacBeth, and a version of a reddish pale ale with centennial and cascade that I'm going to call Donner Party.

Ah, late night beer humor.

Beer Recipes / Mac ESB
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:51:24 AM »
I'm curious of what you think. I set out to make an ESB, but used WY1728 Scottish Ale yeast. Its a miracle brew that I'm not going to stop making. Pitcure a Scottish but with 5.5% ABV and an EKG backbone that quickly supports the maltiness. Finishes dry.

I'm curious if this would fly as an ESB in comps. Statistical it's 100% ESB, but with Scottish yeast instead of English.

I'd answer this myself, but so far my ESB experience is limited to Red Hook, which in my opinion is an APA with English yeast. Too citrusy to be a true ESB.


Equipment and Software / Whirlpool Rest
« on: January 30, 2014, 12:51:59 AM »
I've read a few questions lately about whirlpool and wort clarity. First, in homebrew when someone asks CAN YOU, the real answer is YES. You can do whatever you want. SHOULD you, is a different matter. Anyway, for those new to whirlpooling (like me) , here's what I do.

I whirlpool through my whole boil. One point of boiling is to circulate the wort to drive off DMS right? Why not help it. Sanitize your system at the same time, right? Assist flow across your hops too, right?  I think so.

At flame out I turn the cooling water on to my IC. When I hit bottom, or my pitching temp which ever comes first, I kill the whirlpool. Then I take a gravity sample. I use the gravity sample as my timer for when I SHOULD start running it to my fermentor.

This is tonight's batch. Typical 5 gallon brew with an ounce of EKG pellets in a one gallon paint strainer bag. Twist tied and thrown in the middle of my IC at the right time.

Here's my timer...
5 minutes

10 minutes

15 minutes

20 minutes

You can see that the break does most of its settling in about 15 minutes. The trick is to not disturb it, and run off gently. You should endure up with most of your gunk in the center of the BK.

Hope this helps

Questions about the forum? / Adding a family member
« on: January 25, 2014, 03:48:34 AM »
I want to add my wife to my membership. Anyone know how to do that? I see on the website that it's $22, but I don't see how to get it done

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