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Messages - klickitat jim

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316
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cold crashing
« on: December 29, 2014, 05:23:54 PM »

I cold crash all of my beers... In the keg.  [emoji6]
What he said.
At the very end I bring them up to 98.6º as rapidly as I can for final filtering

317
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge option
« on: December 29, 2014, 06:46:21 AM »
Batch sparge

318
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gal sour project
« on: December 28, 2014, 11:47:35 PM »
No problem.

You might develop a relationship with your LHBS guys. My guys always have what I need because I send them an email about 5 days out. If they don't have it they get it.

319
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge option
« on: December 28, 2014, 11:41:48 PM »
Yup. Makes sense now. My concern that I was commenting on for the OP was batch sparging big beers in a 10 gallon cooler. Example, a Bock. 5 gallon batch, probably want 5.5 gallons of wort in the fermentor so with 90 minute boil I imagine you'd need at least 7 gallons in the BK, probably 7.5 to 8 with hop and dead space. Long story short, he would be sparging already soaked grain bed with about 5 or so gallons. It might fit but it might not. I suppose he could do a second sparge if need be.

320
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gal sour project
« on: December 28, 2014, 09:08:33 PM »
Looked it up

653 is bret lambicus
655 is their vesion of roselare
677 is lacto delbrueckii (same as wy5335)
672 is lacto brevis (from what I hear it produces alcohol and cranks out the acid)

321
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gal sour project
« on: December 28, 2014, 08:41:00 PM »
I use wyeast 5335 lacto. Brett lambicus is 5526. Roselare is 3763 and is a blend of belgian sac yeast with lacto, brett B brett L and pedio. I would plan on 4 to 6 months for that to finish.

Dont know the WLP numbers. I live 50 minutes from Wyeast Lab so its all I use. They have the same stuff though.

322
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gal sour project
« on: December 28, 2014, 07:57:37 PM »
Lots of ways to skin a cat. One packet of lacto is fine. I do a starter for 5 gallons and worry that it wont be enough. Also, wyeast bugs arent the same cell count as sac yeast, much less. So if you are doing one batch on roselare and one on lacto/brett, just pitch the smack packs. It might be more than you need but I don't see it hurting anything. Mash temps is your call. Lacto likes short chain, brett will fo either. So maybe hit the middle?

323
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gal sour project
« on: December 28, 2014, 06:26:00 PM »
Sweet will give it a shot and post up my results think I might go off the 50/50
Like you mentioned above pale/Munich,   Guessing keep abv around 5-6% if not alittle lower? Thinking like 1/2oz mt.hood at 60
Right. Id go with 1.050 of 50/50. Mt Hood is a good choice. On my last one I did 2 oz of Willamette at 10 minutes, calculated 10 IBUs, but probably more like 5 if its went to a lab. Just make sure you are ten max calculated. Personally I like late hop only on these. You retain a bit more aroma and flavor that way and <10 IBUs wont be noticed in that sour of a beer. Frankly the only real reason for adding hops is that it doesnt seem like you're making beer if you don't add hops. So its more ritualistic than anything else. These are all about acid and fermentation character.

324
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rest Mash and Mash Out
« on: December 28, 2014, 06:11:41 PM »
I like the hotter water for sparging because I have a whacky idea that it rinses the grain better. Plus its all got to be heated to a boil anyway, why not get a bump in that direction

Physics would disagree with you...lemme see if I can find the info....but the basic idea is that since you aren't anywhere near the limit of solubility of sugar in water, there is no difference made by water temp.  Kai has even demonstrated that cold sparging doesn 't reduce your efficiency.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/cold-water-sparge-110856/
Thats cool. Maybe lautering is an even better word than rinsing or draining. In any event, it wouldn't be the first time that I've done something that physics or science disagreed with. [emoji85]

325
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge option
« on: December 28, 2014, 06:05:10 PM »
I use the bigger one if my grain bill is over about 12 pounds because 12 pounds plus 5 gallons brings it pretty close to the top.

I am assuming that you are using a rectangular-shaped cooler if that small of a volume is bringing a 13 pound mash close to top of the cooler.  The downside to a short and squat rectangular food cooler is that an inch of height is significantly more volume than an inch of height in a beverage cooler.  I've mashed 13lbs in my 5-gallon beverage cooler, and I used to mash up 26lbs pounds in my old 10-gallon beverage cooler.   A pound of grain displaces 10 fluid ounces; hence, 13lbs of grain displaces just over 1 gallon.
No coolers at all, never used one. I have three stainless kettles all with ball valves and thermometers. 14 gallon BK. 14 gallon and 8 gallon MT/HLT. Which ever one is being used as a MT gets the domed false bottom. Everything is moved by pump. So if I have a 12 pound grain bill or less I use the 8 gallon as my MT. 4.5 gallons of mash water is 1.5 qts per lb. When 12 pounds of grain is added I still have room. When I runoff and add sparge water (enough for a 90 min boil) there is maybe an inch or so of feeboard. So if I have more than 12 lbs of grain I use the 14 gallon pot as my MT and the 8 as the HLT.

Our grain must be different because I mill into a 5 gallon bucket and 12 lbs fills it to just above the 3 gallon mark, or there about.

326
All Grain Brewing / Re: Wort Volume Before Boil
« on: December 28, 2014, 05:43:20 PM »
+1 to the above. Add a measured amount of water to your kettle, boil for 60 minutes, and measure what's left. Then when you brew, add the amount that boils off (your pot's evaporation rate) to your target volume and you'll know how much wort to collect - ie., say you boil off 1.2 gallons in that hour and want to be left with 5 gallons of wort post boil, then plan to collect 6.2 gallons of wort to be boiled for 60 minutes. Obviously if you're doing a 90 minute boil, you'd need to collect more wort to account for a longer boil.

EDIT - Steve's right that environmental conditions can change your boil off rate, and also there is ~ 4% expansion at boiling temps as opposed to cooled volume but this gets you in the ballpark.
Meaning cool you're test boil before measuring the end amount.

327
Equipment and Software / Re: Paddle
« on: December 28, 2014, 07:10:25 AM »
I am a stainless spoon guy. Huge and cheap at restaurant supply joint

328
The Pub / Re: Best Album of All Time
« on: December 28, 2014, 07:07:51 AM »
When you play Zep 1 next to, say the top ten albums of that year, it's obvious they were ahead of their time. While they may have drawn from a few forerunners, they were also forerunners to many many after them.

329
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Conicals again
« on: December 28, 2014, 05:29:15 AM »
I do 10 gallon batches in my two 60 liter Spiedels, using the supplied valve - never a leak so far after dozens of batches...my only issue is lifting them out of my lager chest freezer - I need a hand from a friend with that.  I have the makings of a winch set up (using a deer hanging arrangement), but I never seem to get around to putting it together...too much brewing to do.
2 ten gallon batches would be a back destroyer.

330
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rest Mash and Mash Out
« on: December 28, 2014, 01:56:36 AM »
Since this topic was active and I was brewing two identical grain bills tonight, I decided to test it put. Both Munich Helles, both estimated to be 1.049 at 75% brew house. One I sparged with 165ish and the other with 190ish. The 165 came out at 1.048 and the 190 came out at 1.052. Same volumes, same amount of hops, same boil times.

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