« on: September 25, 2015, 09:38:22 AM »
So much for my "Red Tide" Chelada clone with clams in the secondary. Or Blow-pils with puffer fish livers.
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Yeast calculators are about as useful as toilet paper when it comes to propagating yeast cells. Yeast cells are living organisms that behave differently in different environments. The only way to know how a yeast culture is going to behave in one's brewery is to use it and take very good notes.You lose me easily and frequently but that high gravity explanation is awesome. I did not know that. I knew it took more yeast, now I understand why.
As I have said many times, the difference between a 1L starter and a 2L starter is approximately 90 minutes of propagation time, making the argument for a 2L starter when pitching normal gravity beer a non-sequitur. Now, the difference between a 1L starter and a 5L starter is log(5) / log(2) * 90 = 208 minutes, or 3.5 hours of propagation time. However, one is looking a step rate of 22 / 5 = 4.4 when pitching the cells from a 5L starter into a 22L batch of wort. It takes approximately log(4.4) / log(2) = 2.14 replication periods to reach maximum cell density when pitching at that rate. In practice, we should step between 10 and 20 for most batches, especially if we plan to repitch the slurry. Pitching at a higher rate than that tends to lead to declining culture health, as the average cell age increases with each pitch.
The key to successful fermentation is to pitch enough healthy cells at the peak of their performance into well-aerated wort to get the job done. The osmotic pressure difference between the cell contents and 1.056 wort is not high enough to cause dehydration and loss of turgor pressure, resulting in cell shrinkage and wrinkling of the cell plasma membrane as happens when one pitches a starter into 1.080 wort. Additionally, the solubility of O2 decreases as wort gravity increases (Henry's Law). In essence, we have to pitch a higher number of cells when pitching high gravity wort because of cell loss coupled with lower growth rates and cell health due to lower gas (O2) solubility.
I soak corny kegs in oxy overnight. I recirculate it hot in my BK and Stainless MT. I use it in my Speidel fermentors hot, but they only soak till the krausen ring falls (about 20 min). I soak labels off bottles with it, and use it to clean bottles before sanitizing. So far I've not noticed any lingering aromas, but I suppose its entirely possible.That's probably fine for glass, & steel, but be cautious with plastic. HDPE can absorb fragrance oils fairly easily. If you soak for too long you could get a build up that might transfer over to the plastic. It's probably not enough to affect the taste of your beer, but I don't want any flowery perfume in my fermentors.Fantastic thinking. I now am a fan of oxy with smell. In the past I tried to find oxy free, but used oxy versatile if I couldn't find the free. Now I'm sticking with versatile and remembering your theoryI have bought the fragrance free type in the past, but these days I opt for the 14lb box at Costco and just rinse a bit better.My theory is that it's like propane gas. The fragrance is good. You know you've done a thorough rinse when the odor is gone.
I've used Oxi on my buckets for 15+ years. No fragrance problems.
Smaller batches are just not worth it to me until I have a stable of 2.5 gallon kegs. I love the idea of smaller batches and have done some small batches that I bottled, but bottling sucks. Bottling small batches sucks even more.I used to bottle, then switched to kegs and thought Wow, much easier. Then I went back to bottling after I got into brewing sours. Then I realized, for me, its much easier to control carbonation with bottling. Then I contemplated selling my kegs and kegerator. Then the wife told me she missed having beer on tap. So yesterday we completely tore down the kegerator and cleaned a couple kegs. When we got done she said, "Sorry... I just remember you saying how much easier it was to keg, and thought my suggestion was helping you save time and effort."
Good to know Denny. I don't have trouble getting oxiclean to dissolve, but my SOP is to fill a bucket about half way before adding the cleaner and stir the heck out of it.Do you get any papery cardboard smell, or poor head retention if you stir the oxy too much?
Fantastic thinking. I now am a fan of oxy with smell. In the past I tried to find oxy free, but used oxy versatile if I couldn't find the free. Now I'm sticking with versatile and remembering your theoryI have bought the fragrance free type in the past, but these days I opt for the 14lb box at Costco and just rinse a bit better.My theory is that it's like propane gas. The fragrance is good. You know you've done a thorough rinse when the odor is gone.
PM sent this morning. Last time the beers I received were fantastic (Cascades Runner)! Toby had to suffer through mine, but I also sent him Zombie Dust by FFF to make up for that.Got it, you're in. There's 15 of us now