« on: October 12, 2015, 10:46:25 AM »
If someone brewered my recipe, and entered it in a comp against mine, and won, I think that would be cool. Of course I would still take all the credit lol
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Near the boil kettle with the fire going? If I used a spray bottle of alcohol the way I use starsan, I would be missing even more hair.Ya I dont think I want to be sprizing alcohol clouds around on brew day.
I flame all my brewery glassware. Why turn down an opportunity to play with fire?
Good find, Mark. Based on this, an 80 C (176 F) whirlpool for 20 min (approximately my standard whirlpool conditions) gives ~8% total acid isomerization of a 60 min boil for the same commercial non-isomerize hop extract. Oversimplifying, you could plug in the value for 1 oz at 60 min boil, take 1/10th of that IBU and that's about what you'll get for 1 oz of a 20 min whirlpool at ~175 F.If you use the same system, method, and grist/OG/hops as in the study. I think whirlpool hopping is one of those things where a brewer's personal experience is far more valuable than tge results of a study. A % of utilization from a study is fine for a starting point. But be open minded and ready to adjust to your own experience. For me, 30 minutes at 170F with my tangential whirlpool going the whole time... its 0%
Ya I dont think I want to be sprizing alcohol clouds around on brew day.Mark, stupid question, but is there any reason not to use rubbing alcohol as a general-purpose no-rinse sanitizer? If it were that simple why isn't everyone using it?
The other sanitizers are cheaper when a large volume of sanitizer is needed as well as the fact that alcohol is highly flammable (one of its strengths in a lab).
I often get asked what I think about people's beers. I usually ask "do you want to know if I like it or do you want to critique it with me like it's in a competition?". Then we go from there.I'd ask for the answer to the first question first. Lol
I missed the best by part. Im used to wyeast where the date is when it was made, not best by. So I presumed it was packaged in December 14WL833, 200g of starer in 2L of water. 1.051 on the wort. 10.5 gallons when all was said and done.
The batch should have started by now. A quick search on that strain reveals that many people have reported slower than normal starts with WLP833. The search results combined with what I have experienced over the years tells me that WLP833 more than likely loses viability faster than other more robust strains; otherwise, every one would be complaining about slow starts. Low viability adds a wrinkle to the equation. How old was the culture? How was the culture stored before you received it? Was it shipped during the heat of summer?
By the way, I do not know if you started with more than 2L of water, but the solution should be 2L in volume after boiling.
best by date was early december and I'm in the north east - it's not that hot here. I had to special order it through the LHBS and he had it in the fridge. that's all I know. the starter was def fermenting b/c when I swirled it up it foamed up.
I didn't boil that starter very long so boil off should have been minimal.
so 31 hours in now and I'm not seeing much in the way of signs of life.
did i miss something guys- OP said yeast he used was best by december, so that puts it production in Aug 2015.....unless he meant 2014-cant imagine that.