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Messages - haeffnkr

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31
Hi,
Like the topic states....
I have had a bad run this past summer and have had 4 batches that have gotten just a bit of belgian/lacto/funk in them. 

I have these nice plastic 14 gallon fermenters w/ screw lids that cost $40 a piece.
Can you bleach bomb or whatever else a plastic fermenter to get it sanitized again or is the recommendation just by new and forget about the old ones?

thanks haeffnkr

32
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White labs pitch rate?
« on: September 21, 2017, 03:26:18 AM »
I have been told by a white labs rep that viability in a pure pitch pack after six months stored in a fridge is 75%. That might be optimistic,  but your viability might still be better than 40%.

Also, white labs publishes qc data including cell counts for each pack of yeast.  You will need the lot numbers from your packs of yeast. They may have started off with way more or less than that 100 billion cells.

https://www.yeastman.com/Login/Public/Report/PublicLabQCResult.aspx

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have  still not used this yeast.... as life and kids get in the way of my brewing....

So the report shows
Results from 2 lots are are -

For Lot #1034385
QC Release Date: 1/25/2017
Homebrew PurePitch® Best Before: 7/24/2017
WLP940   Cell Counting   2.83e9   adiaz
2 packages


For Lot #1034606
QC Release Date: 2/1/2017
Homebrew PurePitch® Best Before: 7/31/2017
WLP940   Cell Counting   2.83e9   adiaz
I have 1 package of this.

???
I still make a 2 gallon starter?
Viability is ?

thanks Kevin







33
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White labs pitch rate?
« on: September 01, 2017, 04:56:58 AM »
You need about 850 billion cells for a proper pitch. That's 45.4 liters x 1.5 billion cells per liter multiplied by 12.5 degrees Plato(1.050).  With the yeast being 4 months out from its production date You can figure about 40% viability which would mean around 40 billion cells in the packet, assuming the packet started at 100 billion cells This estimate errs on the safe side.

This calculator will help you figure out what you need in the line of a starter.
http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php

Thanks... This is a nice calculator.

I appreciate all the feedback guys.
Yes a 2 gallon starer with 2 packs is close to what the calculator says.

I usually step up a fresh pack in 2, 1 gallon starters and try to pitch the second one at full krausen which also aligns to the calculator.
I thought the pure pitch packs might have had more cells to start with and would have been closer than to the total I needed and I had no idea the yeast falls so far so fast after the production date.

thanks for all the help.
Kevin

34
Yeast and Fermentation / White labs pitch rate?
« on: August 31, 2017, 03:46:24 AM »
Hi,
I am on the fence of whether to build up a starter or not for my 12 gallon lager.

I read somewhere 1.5 billion per liter for a 1.050 lager for a pitch rate?
So at 1.5 billion per liter lager pitch rate at 12 gallons = 45.4 liters X 1.5 = 68.1 billion cells.

from Whitelabs site -
https://www.whitelabs.com/innovation-homebrewers

Although the PurePitch® packages state a cell net volume of 40 mL, actual volumes range from 40 to 50 mL.

In our production, we allow for cell counts of 1.5 to 3.0 billion per milliliter which will produce 60 to 120 billion total cells if 40 mL. We target the high range of cell counts and fill volumes in our production and packaging processes, however as stated above, the reality of cell biology is that those numbers will vary.


At it says here that 2 packs is what you need for 10 gallons of wort - https://www.whitelabs.com/resources/homebrew-starter-tips

So If the pure pack packages for WLP940 lager yeast says it has 100 billion cells per pack, 2 packs should be more than enough right?

But... what if the local brew supply places have yeast that best to use by August 1 and it is now almost Sept? use 3?

hope that all made sense
haeffnkr

35
Thanks for the good suggestions.

Kevin

36
Yeast and Fermentation / 3 piece air lock keeps blowing out sanitizer
« on: August 28, 2017, 06:07:48 PM »
Hi,
I have been using a 3 piece air lock with starsan in it for a while,  The airlock assembly is in the stopper in my 14 gallon fermenters.

During the first few days of active fermenation the starsan bubbles all out of the air lock and I have to keep adding more and have the fear it blowing it all out and allowing air into the brew. I usually dont have a yeast blow out problem.

Is there a better air lock design or should I just use a blow off tube or any other suggestions to keep a safe amount of starsan in the airlocks?

thanks Kevin

37
A friend who is a National judge and a pro, and I, could taste the difference in a split batch of CAP. The 940 was too clean for a CAP.

Try the 940, you might like it better, or not. You don't know until you try it in your beer.


Yeah, 940 is extremely clean. Down side - not much classic European lager character. Up side- being so clean, it brings malt and hop character more to the forefront. Really good in some beers.

The styles that white labs says that applies to is american lagers and most german lagers. 

https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/wlp940-mexican-lager-yeast

I will try it again in some light lagers and see if I like it more than 830.

thanks Kevin



38
Yeast and Fermentation / lager yeast - 830 and 940 - pretty close?
« on: August 25, 2017, 02:56:43 PM »
Hello,
I made a Vienna lager that was basically half pils and half Vienna and was trying to get close to Victoria (Mexican) Lager. 
Last night I did a tasting side by side and could not really tell the difference, they were very very close.

I used 34/70 dry yeast actually which is to be 830 yeast.
I was going to brew a few beers w/ 940 but the fact that my 830 Vienna beer tasted like Victoria brewed with what I assume was 940  were so close has me scratching my head and wondering if I should bother getting the 940 strain going.

So that all said... Can you all taste the difference between 830 (34/70) and 940 lager yeasts?

thanks haeffnkr

39
thanks for responding and I have found this on their site,  but I dont know what this means -

PITCHING: 80 to 120 g/hl for fermentation at 12°C – 15°C (53.6-59°F).
increase pitching for fermentation lower than 12°C (53°F), up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9°C (48°F)

thus my questions -
How do I get from gallons and gravity to metric something or another?

I just did the math and confirmed 4 packs.

100 g/hl = 1 g/l

There are 3.79 l/gallon and you have 12 gallons, so you need 45.4 g.

There are 11.5 g/packet of dry yeast.  So, you need

45.4/11.5 = 3.95 packets of yeast.


thanks U ROCK !!

haeffnkr


40
3 might be alright, 4 would be better, 5 or 6 would be overkill.  Rehydration is optional but not a bad idea.

I have had great luck with 4 and re-hydrated thus far.

thanks

41
http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/SafLager-W-34703.pdf

A little math and you have the manufacturer's answer to your question.

thanks for responding and I have found this on their site,  but I dont know what this means -

PITCHING: 80 to 120 g/hl for fermentation at 12°C – 15°C (53.6-59°F).
increase pitching for fermentation lower than 12°C (53°F), up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9°C (48°F)

thus my questions -
How do I get from gallons and gravity to metric something or another?

thanks haeffnkr

42
Hello,
Just like the title says...
I see a lot of people use 2 packs for 5 gallons so I assume 4 is is good for 12 gallons?

I dont mind over pitching a lager but I dont want to be throwing an extra $6 at the problem for no reason.

thanks haeffnkr

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Cold packing a yeast starter?
« on: May 03, 2017, 03:33:42 PM »
Short question -
Anything wrong with cold packing a yeast starter?

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cold-pack%20method

Long version of the question -
I really dislike making starters, but I need to make them as brew 12 gallon batches and lots of those are lagers that I used a 2 gallon starter for.
I have progressed to pressure canning my starters, works great, no boil overs takes about an hour total for 4 jars start to finish ( ½ gallon size jars).  If I make a gallon starter I use 2 jars.

A few days ago I noticed I was out of jarred starter and needed 2 jars that day later on so I could pitch the yeast next day and did not have an hour to baby sit the pressure cooker.  I then thought about “cold packing” like my mom used to do sometimes.  So I boiled some water in my electric brew kettle, which was great cause I did not have to baby sit it and no worry of boil over.  Added DME and a few hop pellets to my jars, came back later and added the boiling water to my jars and quickly screwed down the lids, shook the jars to mix the DME and left the jars to cool and they all sealed as expected. I was able to fill all 8 of my jars, not just 4 jars, in minutes, not hours and was still able to work in the yard with no fear of a pressure canner exploding. No more babysitting,  Yes !!

So the question is –
See anything wrong with this process?
Are they any nasties that can survive the heat of boiling water left to slowly cool to room temp?

thanks haeffnkr

44
Equipment and Software / Gas Solenoid Valves and cheap PID
« on: March 02, 2017, 06:09:38 PM »
Hi,
Anyone have a link or experience with some cheap solenoid gas valves and a cheap PID to control the valve?

Need a valve and pid for a project I am working on, along with a standing pilot light to light the burner as needed.

thanks Kevin

45
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning kegs with infected beer?
« on: June 16, 2015, 12:24:33 AM »
Thanks for the help guys !

Hot water sounds like the step I was missing.

Does anyone have a source for the poppet tops?
What about the rubber parts of the pressure relief valves?

thanks Kevin

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