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Messages - Stevie

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Other Fermentables / Re: Watermelon mead
« on: Today at 05:46:48 PM »
I've always used me the knock to test for ripeness, but I recently heard that an inspection of the stem end is needed as well. Flat or convex means ripened after picking, concave means ripened on the vine.

Does Picobrew run its pump for the entire boil?  That beer comes out fine.
It does. Pretty sure Denny mentioned that this is what allows it to "boil" at a lower temp.

That was a tongue in cheek comment.

Winky face ;)

All Grain Brewing / Re: More pedestrian questions
« on: Today at 09:01:07 AM »
I think BCS calls for a protein rest in the Wit recipe.

Looks good. I would need to notch for the valves and thermometer. Up side to that would be a thermometer heat shield. I don't think I need to to go down as far, but I certainly wouldn't mind if it means not having to cut a long strip off.

I think the suggestion to grind the grains the night before, and start early is a good one though.
Yeah, but won't that mean my beer is basically ruined before it starts do to oxidation of the grain? ;)

I might try this next time. Would need to get started by 6 at the latest to ensure I'm chilling by 10

I might use Hooper's idea or something like it myself. It's not always windy here but it is often enough and often cold alone with it. I might include insulation along with it.
Watch out with the insulation. A buddy built and insulated direct fire mash tun, and the insulation did char and shrink back around the bottom. Never caught fire, so that's good.

I bought a cheap roll of roof flashing at Home Depot and made a shield that wraps around the kettle. It's held together with two small bolts and hangs on the kettle handle with two small carabiners. When brew day is done, it unbolts and wraps small enough to slip inside the kettle for storage. I made it for my 15 gal pot so it would heat faster but I mostly use it with my 10 gal pot as a windbreak and it helps use less gas.
I could see this being inexpensive and easy. Most costly part would be the tin snips. How thick is the gap between the flashing and kettle?

The pump will cause the wort to get colder. When it runs through the hoses it is losing heat. I think you should go with a better wind shield and grind the grains the night before.

I'd second this approach.
I get what you are saying here, but in practice I am not finding this to be the case. My theory is the pump is drawing wort from the base of the kettle, which is the hottest point, and circulating. In the two batches I have done this, I haven't needed to fiddle with the propane nearly at all.

The wind is sucking out heat.

I used to leave my chiller in full boil. The tubing outside of the wort would be way too hot to touch. Here, the chiller was actin like a massive heat sink. Stopped that practice half way through the first batch.

General Homebrew Discussion / Running pump for entire boil - thoughts
« on: July 24, 2016, 10:26:10 AM »
The wind here is nuts and I often lose my boil as it causes the kettle to drop below 212. Current apartment is situated in what was a river valley thousands of years ago and I get a direct blast of 12-15mph wind right off the ocean.

I adjust the flame and when the wind subsides the kettle goes nuts requiring me to constantly fiddle with the regulator. I have put windscreens around my brew area, but they only help so much due to the limited height and my ability to store something larger. I try to start earlier in the day, but I feel starting before 7am would not fly with the neighbors, especially when milling the grain. Wind starts to pickup around 10, noon if I am lucky.

Running my pump the entire boil helps as it keeps the wort at a more stable temp. Can anybody think of any reasons why not to do this?

Other Fermentables / Re: Watermelon mead
« on: July 24, 2016, 08:27:51 AM »
Your plan sounds good to me. Maybe add some more juice late in fermentation when the activity is lower.

General Homebrew Discussion / What do you think?
« on: July 24, 2016, 07:55:35 AM »
So you brewed an old ales with a dry lager yeast?

I don't understand your second line.

Edit to add - the above doesn't answer your infection issue. I would recommend giving everything a good cleaning and sanitizing. If you use starsan, consider using some iodophor this time around. Starsan will not kill Brett and wild (or domestic) yeasts.

General Homebrew Discussion / What do you think?
« on: July 24, 2016, 06:46:45 AM »

That is a pellicle. You absolutely have some sort of wild yeast or bacteria working there. What yeast strain did you use?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 30m boil help
« on: July 23, 2016, 08:22:02 PM »

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