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Messages - enso

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging sanitizing gas line
« on: May 03, 2011, 12:29:16 PM »
I have only ever sanitized brand new lines.  The reason being is that they sat out in the homebrew shop along with grain dust in the air.  Maybe I am paranoid but if there is the possibility of grain dust in the lines...  getting blown into my fresh keg of beer...

Once installed though I never clean them unless something other than co2 gets in them.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: From keg to bottle
« on: May 03, 2011, 12:23:51 PM »
To make it a little easier and less messy next time you can do the following.

Get a short piece of tubing that will fit inside your faucet.  At the other end of the tubing have a piece of old racking cane, about as long as the tallest bottle (including growlers) you want to be able to fill.  Put a number 2 (or 6.5 for growlers) rubber stopper on the cane.  With the wand (your piece of racking cane) to the bottom of the bottle and the stopper fit tight in the bottle with your thumb on it open the faucet.  The beer will start to flow and then stop when the pressure builds.  Gently "burp" the stopper to let out pressure a bit at a time until the bottle is filled.  Close the faucet.  Remove the stopper and wand and cap.  Much less spillage and less loss of carbonation.

Ingredients / Looking for advice on all late/single hop pale ale
« on: May 02, 2011, 08:46:04 PM »
I have decided to try an American pale ale using a single hop variety.  Actually the next few pale ales will be single hopped with different varieties each time.  First round all Chinook.  I have been toying with the idea of using only late hop additions from 15 minutes on down to flameout.  Unfortunately when I was getting the hops I was thinking I was only going to do a 5 gallon batch.  So I figured 3 oz. of 11.6% AA would be enough.  Well, I want to do a 10 gallon.   Roll Eyes

So, I went for an ounce FWH to get more bittering and then an ounce @ 10 minutes and an ounce @ flameout, or maybe 1 minute.

Would I be able to get a decently hoppy pale ale with only 3 oz. of Chinook added only as late additions?  My brewing software does not say so.  I have never done an all late addition beer.

Should I
a)go for it with the FWH and late additions
b)get some more hops and do all late addition only

And if so what should my additions look like.

Base beer looks about like this:

for 10 gallons:

18 # MO
8 oz. Carahell
8 oz. Carared

US-05 or 1056 if I can get some.

Got it today.  Seems pretty solid.  Checked it with distilled and it was calibated.  Tried it with a sample of birch sap I had left.  Seemed to be on.  Have to retake a hydrometer reading and see.

Yes the S.G. is apparently off.

For folks with the Brix only models, are they easier to read?  Maybe I should return it and get the Brix only...  But only if it is signifigantly easier to read.  I kind of don't want to bother with the hassle/time.  In other words I want to play with my new toy now!

Equipment and Software / Starting to investigate pumps...
« on: May 02, 2011, 01:17:50 PM »
Looking for advice!  So it would seem the March 809...  followed by other numbers/letters??? is the one most folks go for.

What is the best price?  I saw this one.

Is that alright or can I get one cheaper?  This one just needs to be wired to a switch and a plug attached and it is good to go correct?  Yes, and the inlet outlet connections as well...

Any one point me to a good "primer" (sorry.   ::)) on pumps for homebrewing.  Just sort of an overall how/why/what guide?


Ingredients / Re: water, water everywhere...
« on: April 30, 2011, 01:52:02 PM »
Did the glass of water test.  I would not say there was clouding and percipitation perse.  It was cloudy at first coming out of the faucet but that was bubbles after coming out of the aerator on the faucet.  I left it for about a half hour.  It was clear, but if I tapped it on the counter bubbles would come up from the bottom.  I did that a couple of times and it stopped.  Left it over night.  It was clear this morning and actually tasted/smelled okay.  Although this is one of the times when the sulfur smell is lessened.  As I said, it varies as to how strong it is.

Yes I agree the black in the tank is a bacteria.  I have been investigating this for a while.  A local well driller suggested it was iron bacteria based on desrciption over the phone.  That was before I got the test results.  It would seem not the be the case as iron so low in the results.  The next possibility I read about is sulfur reducing bacteria.  Which apparently feed off of elemental sulfur which is what Martin was suggesting.  Though that does not seem to be the case now either.  hmmm.

And yes, the toilet tank could use a good cleaning.   :-[
But that does not cause the overall odors and I am not collecting my water from there!   ;D

Ingredients / Re: water, water everywhere...
« on: April 29, 2011, 09:42:15 PM »
Thanks Martin,
I will try the glass of water test. 

Yes, there is black staining.  Specifically if you look in the toilet tank on the first floor bathroom it has black slime (fairly substantial) deposited on the sides of the tank.  The bowl itself does not really seem to stain.  Upstairs bathroom the tank is no where near as funky.  It has a light brown slimy coating in the tank and the bowl will develop an orange/brown staining between cleanings.  The smell comes from both cold and hot water taps.

Oh, and it's a drilled well.  I am still trying to find out the depth and gpm etc.  I think I have the driller tracked down, I just have to contact them

Ingredients / water, water everywhere...
« on: April 29, 2011, 09:05:06 PM »
...and I dunno what to think!

Okay, well I am too stupid to do anything with water chemistry, or any ind of chemistry really!  Read much on the topic in here and in books, spreadsheets, etc..  So let's not go there.  However, some help on overall quality, keep it real simple here folks, would be much appreciated.

I have been renting a house for the last 9 mos. and we are in the process of buying it.  Nearly a done deal.  We have a drilled well here though I do not use the water.  It has a distinct sulfury smell that is consistent but worse some times then others.  It is not the hot water heater.  It is likely iron or sulfer bacteria or a combination.  I generally get my water from springs in the area and they provide great tasting water but it is not always convenient to get it.

As a part of the buying/inspecting process we got the well water tested from Ward labs.  Did a full on test for bacteria and all...

Coliform Bacteria, Col/100 mL NONE (SAFE)
E Coli Bacteria, Col/100 mL NONE (SAFE)
pH 8.2
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est 145
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.24
Cations / Anions, me/L 2.3 / 2.2
Sodium, Na 15
Potassium, K 2
Calcium, Ca 28
Magnesium, Mg 2
Total Hardness, CaCO3 78
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 5
Chloride, Cl 6
Carbonate, CO3 9
Bicarbonate, HCO3 89
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 88
Fluoride, F 1.20
Total Iron, Fe 0.03

Doesn't look to bad to read the report, but it smells/tastes bad.  There is a sediment filter for the house that the landlord changes monthly.  Which he thinks helps, I disagree.

What can I do with this water if I want to brew with it?  Any suggestions for an idiot?

I find it really amazing that this is so complicated!  It is my opinion that porter is THE most written about and researched "style" ever!  It seems almost ever brewing book I have read has something about porter in it.  Off the top of my head I think all of the following Classic beer style series books have at least some mention of the influence of porter.  Barley wine, Mild ale, Pale ale and Scotch ale and of course Porter.  The last one is the only one I have not actually read!  Some of them have rather extensive passages about the popularity and rise and fall of said "style".  There loads of historical info on the style in Radical Brewing as well.  How can something so well documented be so contentious?

Could be because it came about when "styles" were really beginning to be documented?  Or rather when breweries/brewers were really beginning to market there beer and they threw names around willy nilly?

I agree with the folks who mentioned the use of black malt (patent) as a distinuisher of at least modern day porter vs. a stout which uses roast barley.

And Guinness Stout is a good example of how things evolve and mutate...evidently roasted barley wasn't even part of the grist until well into the 20th century.

Don't forget that Guiness was originally known for their porter which they discontinued sometime in the early 20th century iirc.  What I recall is that they started brewing a "Stout porter" which was a variation on their porter.  Stronger?  I dunno.  Blacker?  I dunno.  Stouter?  uh, sure...  Whatever that means.  Marketing term to mean more special therefore cammanding a premium price???   :-X

If you look at early 20th century beer ads and marketing they used not only the terms stout and porter, but also beer and ale interchangeably.  No wonder it gets so confused.

Perhaps I missed it but I do not seem to recall anyone in this thread or the article linked mentioning the much documented theory that porter itself was not actually something brewed as is but rather a blend of beers.  Also a likely early marketing ploy.  A way to use up beer that had gone by with beer that was not quite ready to drink.   ;D
If you accept that then really no one is making "authentic" porter anymore.  It would not make much sense on a commercial level.

It is also my understanding that when the beer that came to be known as porter which was now being brewed "whole" rather than blended used a variety of substances to darken it; including some rather dubious ones, until a reliable method for making roast malt (black "patent") was developed.

Equipment and Software / Re: SG/Brix refractometer completely useless?
« on: April 28, 2011, 12:21:10 PM » apps by the way.

Nice!  Now, you got a free iphone and a prepaid subscription to use it for me as well!  Oh, and we could use some cell service up here also...   ;D

Okay thanks folks.  Cant wait to play with it...  That's assuming I actually get what I asked for!   :D

Equipment and Software / Re: SG/Brix refractometer completely useless?
« on: April 27, 2011, 08:28:46 PM »
Yes I am aware of the alcohol issue.  I plan to only use it preboil and maybe during the boil.  What I am asking about is some folks have said the refractometers that have a dual S.G. and Brix scale do not work.  I was wondering if that meant it is completely useless or just the S.G. side is inaccurate.

Equipment and Software / Re: SG/Brix refractometer completely useless?
« on: April 27, 2011, 08:22:21 PM »
So you have one that has SG and Brix then?  So long as the brix side works I will be glad.

Equipment and Software / SG/Brix refractometer completely useless?
« on: April 27, 2011, 08:02:45 PM »
So I asked for one of these for my birthday only to now read in another thread that these do not work.  Are they completely useless or can I read the brix side of the scale and get an accurate reading?

Equipment and Software / Re: Refractometer.....
« on: April 27, 2011, 01:48:22 PM »
Someone mentioned that the SG version is very inaccurate over 1.060.

I've found mine to be pretty inaccurate period and worse over 1.060.  I remember a10t2 posting that the manufacturer screwed up the scale.  I need to try to take some readings in Brix and convert them on my own and see if that scale works.

ah crap.  Guess I should have asked around first.   :(

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fastest Turnaround Time?
« on: April 26, 2011, 10:15:15 PM »
...The hoppy beers taste good green...

Not if there is wicked diacetyl!  I crashed a gallon of IPA only 9 days old and hit it with gelatin then force carbed 1 gallon in 2 liter bottles.  Yuck.  Wicked diacetyl!  I used US-05 as always.  Thinking I may add 1056 or 001 to my ranch...

As to the fastest successful turn around, also a dark mild.  It was 10 days to the glass.  May have been 8.  I don't have my records handy.  It was clear and tasty.

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