Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - flbrewer

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 27
31
Kegging and Bottling / Bottle Bombs
« on: February 15, 2015, 02:59:04 PM »
I'm curious if anyone has any anecdotal or scientific accounts of exactly how many points of gravity movement would cause a bottle to be at risk of explosion (bottling earlier than a full fermentation)?

32
Equipment and Software / Hydrometer Reading
« on: February 15, 2015, 01:13:39 PM »
Just to confirm I'm reading these correctly...would you concur that this is 1.012?




33
Yeast and Fermentation / Culturing from Commercial Beer
« on: February 13, 2015, 05:44:41 PM »
Seems simple enough, was going to give this a try for fun and perhaps to use with a SN Pale Ale recipe.

If you do it, how has it turned out? I'm guessing you have to do this a few times (building up, decanting, repeat) before you get enough cells to pitch.


34
Equipment and Software / Water Testing
« on: February 13, 2015, 08:21:11 AM »
I've ordered a couple of tests through Ward which seem great but are pricey. I heard this mentioned today and was curious if anyone has tried their chemistry kits. Much more affordable considering you can test many times.

http://www.hach.com/brewingguide-waterquality

35
Homebrewer Bios / Brewer Bio: flbrewer
« on: February 11, 2015, 05:45:52 PM »
Greetings everyone, Justin here from Jacksonville Florida. I've been a home brewer since April of 2013. Thus far I've really been focused on Pale Ales and IPAs. I'd like to continue to work on the Pale Ale style this year and begin to explore sours as well.

My first brew was the American Wheat extract kit from Northern Brewery. It turned out...as beer. Nothing memorable, but nothing that knocked my socks off. I brewed around 5 kits or so and experiemented with some (awful) one gallon recipes I made up myself. Of course pitching while the beer was in the 80's didn't help! There were certainly times during this period where I questioned if I wanted to continue with the hobby.

I have just begun to brew all grain and it's been a really enjoyable transition. Considering how easy batch sparging has been for me, I wish I would have started with this method. Moving the entire operation in the garage/ outside has been a welcomed change and has made things much more enjoyable.

I'm currently brewing ~5 gallon batches using a 10 gallon Blichmann Boilermaker G2 boil kettle/ hot liquor tank, and a 10 gallon Rubbermaid round cooler for my mash tun. My fermenter continues to the 30L Speidel.

I have shared my homebrew with friends and family and their response has been positive. I am certainly my biggest critic and my goal is to brew repeatable beers that I find at par with what I buy commercially.




36
Yeast and Fermentation / Steady vs. Rising Temperature
« on: February 11, 2015, 05:20:24 PM »
Jon Palmer mentioned that two methods of managing fermentation temperatures are holding a very steady temperature or starting lower and letting the temperature rise naturally within the range of the yeast strain.

What are your thoughts? I like the idea of starting low and holding temp. for the first 48 hours or so and then letting it rise slowly.

37
Equipment and Software / BeerSmith Efficiency
« on: February 11, 2015, 04:45:28 PM »
I'm entering in some figures from my last brew day and have a question...why would efficiency go up as I enter a larger volume figure into the "Measured batch size into fermenter"? I can (somewhat) understand that pre-boil and post-boil OG has something to do with, but not sure what the amount of wort I pour into the fermenter has to do with it.

Also, since I didn't use all of my wort (ended up disposing 1.5 gallons) should I be entering in the fully produced wort number instead of what really goes into my fermenter?

38
Kegging and Bottling / Blending and re-bottling
« on: February 11, 2015, 10:35:22 AM »
Listening to a podcast with Michael Tonsmeire and my head is swirling with ideas. I got an idea to blend my Nelson Pale Ale with some NZ Sav wine. The beer is currently bottled and still carbing.

If I find that the beer tastes good blended can I blend and re bottle for a short period of time? Will this ruin carbonation?

39
General Homebrew Discussion / Souring post-fermentation
« on: February 11, 2015, 09:59:04 AM »
Is there a particular method to souring a beer once fermentation is complete? For example if I make a 5 gallon batch of a pale ale and what to add some sour to it for a gallon batch can this be done?

40
Yeast and Fermentation / Reusing Starter
« on: February 11, 2015, 08:23:18 AM »
Is it feasible to save a very small bit of a starter (after decanting) to use in a future batch? For example I've decanted, pitched, and saved a minor amount which I can build back up at some point.

Is this feasible or do you get diminishing returns on viable cells with every re pitch?

41
Ingredients / Hop Retailers
« on: February 11, 2015, 08:21:16 AM »
I generally purchase hops through More Beer or NB. I'm curious if there is a smaller or boutique vendor you use that you believe sells a higher quality product.

42
Ingredients / Pellet vs. Leaf Hops
« on: February 10, 2015, 06:14:50 PM »
From what I've read you get better utilization with pellets. In an effort to closely follow a recipe I'm trying next (which lists whole hops) I'd like to give it a shot at some point using leaf hops. The idea of a less mess in the trub is appealing as well for clean up.

Have you found that you can use interchange pellets and leaf on a 1:1 basis. For example, a recipe calls for 1 ounce of leaf cascade. Would 1 ounce of cascade pellets be a big difference?

Secondly, for longer term storage (~1 year) do they hold up frozen like pellets do?

Thanks!

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Mitch Steele Comments
« on: February 10, 2015, 12:44:12 PM »
I was listening to a recent BeerSmith podcast and Mitch Steele from Stone had two interesting comments that I wanted to run by the group here.

-Whirlpooling hops can many times take the place of having to dry hop. Anyone experimented with this?

-He mentioned that at Stone they drop the fermentation temp. down from 72 to 62 to flocculate out the yeast prior to dry hopping. I thought that was interesting as I thought you had to cold crash way down for this to happen. 62 isn't far off from where I've been fermenting at.


44
Equipment and Software / Boillermaker Valve Rust
« on: February 09, 2015, 04:45:53 PM »
Noticed tonight that the valve on my Blichmann G2 is showing tiny signs of rust. I've only used it twice. What would cause this on stainless?
Any recommendations on cleaning? Didn't want to scratch it, and I've contacted the retailer already.




45
All Grain Brewing / Starch in Wort
« on: February 09, 2015, 04:41:11 PM »
I've noticed over the past two batches (only batches) of all grain that even with a pretty clear vorlauf I get the sporatic pieces of starch in my wort from the grain. Is this ever an issue? I believe someone answered me a while ago about this, but cannot find it as I post an obnoxious amount lately!  ;D


Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 27