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Messages - HydraulicSammich

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31
The Pub / Re: To our Friend and Leader
« on: June 24, 2013, 07:05:06 PM »
Our thoughts and prayers are with you. Denny!

32
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here
« on: May 19, 2013, 06:49:04 AM »
If you end up needing to ferment mostly ales (~mid 60's) and are having trouble with either the cost or size of a refrigerator or mini cooler that will fit your carboy or bucket, I highly recommend the below Igloo cooler for fermentation. I was able to keep my wheat ale right at 65 for 2 weeks with very minimal tweaking (adding ice cubes periodically). Good luck!
http://www.igloo-store.com/detail/IGL+ICECUBE+70+MCROL

+1

I used three of these early on.  Frozen liter bottles and a floating thermometer worked well.  You can buy these at Walmart or Sam's for $30.00

33
The Pub / Re: It's stupid, but I want one....
« on: May 11, 2013, 12:06:27 PM »
Nice, but could still get a DUI on that in Utah!

34
Equipment and Software / Re: Primary without an airlock
« on: April 23, 2013, 10:07:14 AM »
Not to worry.  The thermalmass of the liquid keeps the temp from changing rapidly.  I used Igloo Ice Coolers, somewhat of a square cooler, and cut a hole in the top for the lock.  I used one liter frozen bottles and a floating thermometer.  Of course all this is before freezers and temp controllers.  You would be good with the foil on the carboy if you choose that route 

35
All Things Food / Re: Fermenting Crock
« on: April 15, 2013, 12:07:14 PM »
Nice!  I think I should put a pot of kraut on right this minute.  I haven't used what you just purchased but do use a 4 gallon Redwing crock which kicks out about 12 quarts kraut.  Just enough to get by a year.  I also use a 16th century recipe of my grandfathers from Switzerland.  Simple, just add salt and Danish ball head cabbage.  All other herbs are added at cook time.  Cheers!

36
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegerator Issues - Dump Cup!
« on: April 03, 2013, 07:45:54 AM »
Computer fans are okay to circulate air around but they will not pump air up the tower.  To eliminate this go to MicroMatic.com and check out their fans.  I use one in my chest kegerator, plastic plumbed to pump cold low air up and over the lines and directly over the shanks.  Cost me a hundred bucks but I have solved my problem.  Cheers!

37
Kegging and Bottling / Re: What the?
« on: March 26, 2013, 08:41:56 AM »
Also, along with temp, head space is a big factor.  Overfilling the keg, higher initial temps, and prolonged higher temps, say in the keaser as opposed to a lagering chamber, increases the time dramatically to carb the keg.

38
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 2352 Munich Lager II
« on: March 26, 2013, 07:55:56 AM »
I brewed a lager with Munich II the other day.  A lager that I usually use Munich in.  The Munich II had a more crisp, dry finish, tasting the terminal gravity reading as I racked it over for lagering.  I think I am going to prefer it.  You may lose some sweetness in the Dunkel.

39
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stepped yeast starters
« on: March 22, 2013, 12:09:45 PM »
Quote
Mr Malty drops the viability to 26% while yeastcalc drops it to 47% for the same date.  They used to use the same formula but looks like yeastcalc changed.  If you are concerned, average it out and make a little bigger starter.

Well, that is exactly what I saw.  Thanks for the comment.

40
Yeast and Fermentation / Stepped yeast starters
« on: March 22, 2013, 10:54:08 AM »
I am in a bit of a quandary with a yeast starter for an English Pale Ale with gravity of 1.055, 5.5 gal, and stir plate.  I have one packet of Wyeast 1028 with a date of Dec 11, '12.  I anticipated doing a two step starter.  When I plug it into Mr. Malty, it maxed out, with stir plate at 2 packets in near 2 liters.  So, I need to step up.  Then I plugged it into YeastCalc, same parameters, it suggests 1 packet, 2 liters, good to go.  I am either missing something or this is a fair discrepancy.  I have read W & Z Yeast book and other books concerning starters but I am still a bit in the dark about the second step procedure for a starter.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

41
The Pub / Re: Thanks Joe Bonamassa
« on: March 21, 2013, 10:43:17 AM »
I saw it on PBS, it was fantastic!

42
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation taking "hold"
« on: March 19, 2013, 09:01:18 AM »
I prefer to be as simple as possible when force carbing.  I try to keep plenty of beers on tap at any one time so I am not overly anxious to pour a perfect beer in 24 hours.  Simply, keep your cooler so it dispenses at 38 to 45 degrees, or what you like.  Set keg pressure at 12 pounds or whatever your style wants.  Start with about 10 feet of line, 3/16 ID.  This will give you a nice slow, not overly foamy pour.  If it is too slow for you, cut a foot off and try again.  Most importantly, let the keg carb without fuss for a solid week and there you are.  There are tons of other ways to carb.  Shaking, kicking, rolling, bouncing. high pressure then low pressure then no pressure.  Big headache unless you know where you are going and how to get there.  Cheers!

43
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: racking to limit attenuation
« on: March 09, 2013, 01:25:57 PM »
It may be finished with fermentation!  What has been the gravity over the last 2 or three days.  Is it stable?  I am betting it is finished.  However, I would let it sit another two weeks just to clean up after itself then rack and lager.  I don't risk the sulfur taste.

44
Ingredients / Re: dry hopping
« on: March 04, 2013, 12:55:51 PM »
I just can't wait that long.  I have to keep things as simple as possible.  My ales spend three weeks in the primary.  Then transfered to keg with suspended dry hop bag.  It sits at room temp for a week and then into the kegerator and carbed.  I never have a problem with it.  Some of the wheat or rye ales take a little longer to clear.  So what!

45
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator Thermostat Help (Adjustment Screw)
« on: February 18, 2013, 03:30:04 PM »
Quote
Thanks for the reply. I know the box might get tricky, will have to pull out the plyers. I wish i would be able to just pull off the top except there is another screw that there that doesnt screw in or out. It just adjusts another spring i think. Hopefully il be able to figure out a way without digging myself deeper into this mess.


If it is in the high or coldest position, it could be left as such and a Johnson A419 added.  I think that is the way it works anyway.

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