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Messages - MDixon

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1726
Channeling doesn't matter when batch sparging since the runoff is homogeneous. You get the same concentration of sugars with batch sparging in a single draining of the tun from first drop to last. What is of upmost importance with batch sparging is crush. If one has a substandard crush then efficiency will be lower. With fly sparging the most important aspect IMO is mash tun manifold followed by crush.

1727
I go for volume and gravity. I generally want to finish with 6 or so gallons in the kettle (5.5-6.0 in the fermenter) so I start with 7.5 or so. Usually I time my boil using my boil off rate so the OG of the beer will be exactly what I desire.

1728
I generally have drained the tun by the end. I always make up more sparge water than I need, but often have gauged the volume so it ends up essentially dry so I have less to carry to the compost bin.

1729
All Things Food / Re: Cold Smoke Generator
« on: December 31, 2009, 01:38:05 PM »
I'm reading that price for the unit correctly? Nearly $45?

1730
All Things Food / Re: Coffee roasting
« on: December 31, 2009, 01:11:37 PM »
For a small batch I use a popcorn popper. For a much larger batch I modified the stirrer in a bread machine to be switchable and put the heating element on a rheostat/dimmer. I heat up the machine, dump in the beans and then use a heat gun to do the actual roasting. My original plan was to use the element, but it was too inconsistent and too hot so I only use it to get the machine hot. I can do a few pounds using this method and equipment, but generally about 1/2 pound is my MO.

I wrote about it here
http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=22562

1731
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Club legal status
« on: December 31, 2009, 01:04:02 PM »
We set up our club as a business with the state (NC) as a nonprofit corporation. We also have a Tax ID #. Our checking account is just that with zero savings and interest. We've thought about filing the paperwork to be a nonprofit with the Feds but have not seen how that would benefit us.

Here's our state incorporation document, that might help. (I don't mind showing it since I ain't on it!)
http://www.secretary.state.nc.us/corporations/Filings.aspx?PItemId=5264257#

1733
vert - I always boil my water for rehydration (only takes 1/2 cup) in the microwave and let it cool to ~100 before rehydrating. Sure I could easily can a quart, but then I'd have to figure out what to do with what remains. No real need to reuse yeast when using dry yeast. ;)

1734
All Grain Brewing / Re: Malt Conditioning
« on: December 28, 2009, 01:34:09 PM »
After you've decided for yourself it is the conditioning of the malt, make a few batches using the same malt which has not been conditioned. Then post what you were getting before conditioning, what you got after conditioning, and what you got when you went back to unconditioned malt.


- -

FWIW - I get 85%+ on a motorized JSP adjustable which has never been adjusted (I did remove the grain guides), of course I don't conditions since I don't see where I could benefit since stuck sparges are not a routine problem and my efficiency is very high at times.

1735
I don't really see the benefit of sterile water, but you may.

I've been pressure canning (you must pressure can) for years. I actually make a full batch of pale malt mash and after the sparge can the wort. It's on my page www.ipass.net/mpdixon

1736
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cold side aeration and staling reactions
« on: December 15, 2009, 01:43:55 PM »
I understand what he is asking now (duh). I was thinking in regard to pitching and not to transfer, so yes, I believe aerating and then letting the beer sit for days prior to pitching would be a bad thing in the long term since the oxygen introduced during the aeration could cause detrimental staling.

- -

Now since someone mentioned HSA, how about a data point. Often we here people discuss HSA pre-boil. Well one day last year my spigot began to break on the tun and was drawing in air during the runoff. When I noticed the foam from the aeration was about half a converted keg in depth. My first thought was to stop it and then I thought it might be interesting to let it ride, boil, cool, ferment, etc. and determine just what staling effects had occurred. So the first keg drained pretty quickly without adverse effects. The second is STILL hanging out and has no indications of oxidation. It's over a year old with diminishing charateristics due to age, but no oxidation. FWIW it is a Gotlandsdrika ~1.050. So, IMO, pre-boil HSA is not a concern - YMMV.

1737
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Colonna capper/corker or other bench capper?
« on: December 14, 2009, 11:41:47 AM »
There are not many which cap both beer bottles and can cork wine. If you want a dual, it may be your only option. I seem to recall from the time I looked into it the corker attachment is a separate purchase.

1738
Based upon the data presented in Hombrewing Vol. 1 and a Brewing Techniques article where the IBU were measured bitterness is reduced when blowoff occurs.

1739
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cold side aeration and staling reactions
« on: December 13, 2009, 10:03:56 PM »
I am not aware of any staling issues with aerating/oxygenation at pitching temps. If anyone is aware of any, please provide a reference.

1740
All Grain Brewing / Re: Slowed down my sparge,and got a boost
« on: December 11, 2009, 12:25:14 PM »
In the "made you look" category, I checked and my unit can be outfitted for commercial use to go to 185F. Of course it has some kind of limit for home use which caused it to top out at 140F.

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