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Messages - scottNU

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61
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 26, 2013, 07:58:28 PM »
I usually rehydrate because that's what the manufacturer says to do, and for me it's easier to pour into my carboy. 

I have normally rehydrated dry yeast simply because I didn't have a good way to get the yeast into the carboy through the neck.  To be honest, I didn't try sprinkling down the hole because I imagined it would either stick to the neck or stick to the sanitized funnel. 

Does anyone has a nice trick to get the powedered yeast into the carboy or am I way overthinking this point?

the best trick I have found is to sprinkle the dry yeast on about a cup of warm pre-boiled water and wait till it... oh... nevermind.

If you have been rehydrating for that reason you should go ahead and keep doing it. or get some buckets.

Fair enough.  Not worth worrying about. Go forth and propagate little yeasty friends.

62
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 26, 2013, 06:40:42 PM »
I usually rehydrate because that's what the manufacturer says to do, and for me it's easier to pour into my carboy. 

I have normally rehydrated dry yeast simply because I didn't have a good way to get the yeast into the carboy through the neck.  To be honest, I didn't try sprinkling down the hole because I imagined it would either stick to the neck or stick to the sanitized funnel. 

Does anyone has a nice trick to get the powedered yeast into the carboy or am I way overthinking this point?

63
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What % Attenuation To Dry Hop At
« on: August 26, 2013, 12:45:36 AM »
Good question.  For years I did what most people here do - wait until after high krausen subsides to add dry hops, for the reasons you mentioned. Works fine.  But after reading an article by Stan Hieronymus in Zymurgy a few issues issues ago, I tried his method, which was to rack to a secondary after fermentation and add dry hops away from the bulk of the yeast, when the beer was fairly clear. I used a hop combo that I had used before, and I found the overall hop character to be a little better.  He reasoned that some hop aroma/flavor compounds are formed in the presence of high levels of suspended yeast that are not thought of as desireable.  I think I will keep using his method as I had good results, but I spent years dryhopping after high krausen and made good beer then too.  Either way you will too.

This is also my current method.  I have been happy with the results, but am interested to hear from folks dryhopping into the primary.

64
Beer Recipes / Re: Ideas to slightly darken a pale ale
« on: August 22, 2013, 03:13:30 PM »
Great ideas.  Thanks for all the suggestions.  In any case, it will be an interesting experiment.

65
Beer Recipes / Re: Ideas to slightly darken a pale ale
« on: August 22, 2013, 03:05:03 PM »
Carafa or Midnight wheat would work. Just throw it on the mash before you start sparging.

Jimmy - are you suggesting adding the Carafa at the end of the 60 minute mash?  Any concerns with such a small amount of time to convert the starches?  I suppose that the very small amount of grain (~ 1oz.) is not a reason to worry.

What starches? Those have all been carbonized into things that don't convert.

Ah, duh.  Right.  My bad...no coffee had been consumed when I responded.  That's my story!

66
Beer Recipes / Re: Ideas to slightly darken a pale ale
« on: August 22, 2013, 01:30:07 PM »
Carafa or Midnight wheat would work. Just throw it on the mash before you start sparging.

Jimmy - are you suggesting adding the Carafa at the end of the 60 minute mash?  Any concerns with such a small amount of time to convert the starches?  I suppose that the very small amount of grain (~ 1oz.) is not a reason to worry.

67
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter looks strange--advice needed
« on: August 22, 2013, 01:18:51 PM »
I got that with WLP002 and thought I screwed up with my sanitation. However, the vial kind of looked the same way.

The White Labs samples often seem more "chunky" out of the vial compared to the Wyeast smack packs.  I don't seem a big difference after a starter is made.

68
All Grain Brewing / Re: SMaSH options
« on: August 22, 2013, 01:13:11 PM »
Citra. Lots of Citra. The Munich can handle it.

I brewed an IPA a few weeks ago and primarily used Citra.  One charge of Centennial to bitter and the rest was Citra.  I cheated a bit for a SMaSH, but the Citra was great!

69
Beer Recipes / Ideas to slightly darken a pale ale
« on: August 22, 2013, 03:27:18 AM »
I am planning on brewing a pale ale this weekend.  This is the grain bill.

11.00 lbs   Rahr 2-Row   
0.75 lbs   Briess Munich 10L   
6.00 ozs   Briess 2-Row Caramel 40L   
6.00 ozs   Briess Carapils   

I have purchased and milled my grain for the batch, however I made a mistake.  I thought the Munich malt was 60L instead of the 10L that was available.  The predicted color of the beer is quite a bit lower than I would like.  I know it's mainly cosmetic, but I was wondering if I could darken the color without significantly impacting flavor.

I looked at some malts that I could add at low levels.  If I add 1 oz of Carafa III, I can get the SRM back to 9.3 or so which would be fine.  I am considering adding the Carafa only to the last 10 minutes of the mash with the hope to get mostly color over flavor.

Does anyone see a flaw in this plan or have a better suggestion?  Thanks for the help.

70
Pimp My System / Re: VERY Custom Mash Paddles
« on: August 21, 2013, 02:59:39 PM »
Amazing work!  I would be reluctant to use a paddle that beautiful.  It may need a spot of honor above the bar.

71
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Number of House Yeasts?
« on: August 21, 2013, 02:56:51 PM »
I brew almost strictly german lagers and american ales, so I have either WL830 or 833 going in one fermentor and WL001/US-05 or WL007 going in the other. 

If i want to brew a one-off batch like a wit or something like that, then i purchase specifically that yeast for that batch.

I only buy yeast a few times a year, yet i brew every 2-3 weeks.

Sounds very much like my regimen...not to hijack the thread, but how many generations do you go with your "house yeast"?

Same here.  I typically go 4-5 generations before starting over.

Dave

I was visiting the tap room of a small brewery in town.  Most of their beer have a Belgian influence and their house strain is some type of Trappist yeast.  We were talking about yeast and he said he felt the yeast "performed" the best in generation 3 or 4.

Most importantly, the beers were very good.

72
Zymurgy / Re: Zymurgy iphone app?
« on: August 20, 2013, 08:09:30 PM »
Hey all,

The newest issue of Zymurgy was just released on the mobile app!

Cheers,
Duncan

Got it...and was able to download/read with success.

Thanks!

Yes, there was a couple hour delay between the email and when the app had the new version.  It looks great.

73
Zymurgy / Re: Zymurgy iphone app?
« on: August 20, 2013, 03:28:22 PM »
I couldn't see the new issue on my Ipad either. Comes up fine on the computer though.

This is true for me as well.

74
Zymurgy / Re: Zymurgy iphone app?
« on: August 20, 2013, 02:44:23 PM »
I received an email yesterday that the Sept/Oct version was ready for download.  I haven't received the hard copy yet.

75
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Slow Fermentation
« on: August 20, 2013, 01:07:02 PM »
I like to have some harvested yeast of the common 1056 strain around for my use on my standard brews and to give to brewing friends looking to use the same strain. The difference for me (I think) and a professional brewer of any size is that brewing is a hobby for me (reducing costs are not a primary motivation). If I want to try an usual yeast I've never used before, I don't hesitate to buy it and try it. If it fails, so be it.  A pro needs to plan more carefully and utilize yeast as a key raw material over generations - that also means they need to consider the styles they will be brewing over the coming months.

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