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Topics - 69franx

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16
General Homebrew Discussion / Bock attenuation problem
« on: January 04, 2015, 03:16:03 PM »
Hey all, I'm back from Florida. I just checked my Bock brewed on 12/7/14 and it is down to 1.025 from 1.072, or 65% attenuation with WLP833, pitched around 540B cells estimated when Beersmith called for 552B. When I left town, I gave it the last 2 degree bump to get it to 65DF and it was at 1.029 (60% attenuation at that point) it has been resting at 65 for 10 days and has only gone down another 4 points. My grist was 50/50 Munich I&II with 3 oz carafa II to get the color right. Mashed at 155, projection of 1.02 FG, really not even close right now. Its my first attempt at a Bock and the sample tastes good, if a bit sweet. The only yeast I have on hand currently is a pack of S04. Not sure if it is just done high due to mash temp? Or if I can get a couple more points out of it. Its roughly 6.2% ABV right now, a little low but drinkable. Any suggestions?

17
General Homebrew Discussion / BVIP
« on: December 26, 2014, 08:57:06 PM »
Ok, probably no big surprise here for anyone who has made or tasted this brew from the one and only Denny Conn, there is a new favorite home brew in the household. On vacation, chilled 2 bottles down to try out after 11 days in the bottle. Still some carbing to do, but already delicious. Loved by SWMBO, my parents, and myself. This will be regularly scheduled. If you have not tried it yet, you can find the recipe in the wiki here under specialty beer. Thank you again Denny.

18
General Homebrew Discussion / D rest fpr my Bock
« on: December 24, 2014, 09:34:45 PM »
My Bock has been progressing well and I have been following the accelerated lager ferment schedule discussed here recently. Here is my question: I have been slowly bringing it up to 65 for a D rest, whether it needs it or not, I just bumped it up from 62-65(set the controller that is) but I am leaving town for 10 days tomorrow. Are there any issues leaving it at 65 for 10 days rather than a standard 3 days? Or should I just crash it back down to lager temps?

19
Ingredients / Crisp Maris Otter
« on: December 09, 2014, 01:10:53 PM »
So I have some questions, go figure. I ordered a 55# sack of Crisp Maris otter(my first foray into Maris Otter) from my LHBS. I just picked it up and am confused. I see a lot of great comments on this forum about this malt and I want to make sure that I got the real deal. I ordered Crisp Maris Otter, the sack I just picked up says "Gleneagles Maris Otter" and has a batch info sticker on it that does reference CrispMalt.com for any questions. The sticker on the bag does have a batch number on it which I assume I could reference for malt analysis, but I cannot figure out where to go for that. I will attach a photo shortly.
When I visit crispmalt.com, I see no place to enter a batch number, but I can find a downloadable pdf of a "Typical Analysis and Product Description," will this be close enough?
This typical analysis is for Finest Maris Otter Ale malt, rather than the Extra Pale Maris Otter Malt that is also listed. If I did not specify, would I likely have been shipped the "Finest?"
This sack is going into a SMASH bitter, re-pitch into "The Queen's Diamonds" from Experimental Homebrewing, and also into Jamil's Evil Twin.
Another question, is all MO floor malted? What does floor malting ring to the table.
I know there are a lot of questions here, but anything anyone can tell me would help set my mind at ease. I have no fears of being "Hoodwinked " by my LHBS, just that maybe I did not order correctly, not knowing all the specifics

20
Yeast and Fermentation / Slurry pitch for BCS Bock
« on: November 16, 2014, 09:28:55 AM »
One of my next brews will a BCS Bock. I would like to pitch slurry from my BCS Dunkel. I have a couple questions about this, as I have not harvested yeast before. The Dunkel is already lagering, still on the yeast cake, am I correct in assuming this yeast will still be viable for the next batch, or do I need to get it rolling again via a starter. When I plug my numbers into Mr. Malty calc, 6G of 1.071 lager wort, what viability should I be entering? At the default settings for yeast thickness and non yeast %, it yields 337 mL of slurry at 80% viability, and if viability is only 10%, it calls for almost 3L of slurry, a pretty wide spread. So I guess the main question is, what is the rough viability of my slurry after lagering for 2-3 weeks at 34F? Should I rack off the yeast and then warm the yeast up, create a starter, or buy a new vial/pack of yeast? So much to learn...

21
Equipment and Software / Grain Mill
« on: November 14, 2014, 09:40:06 PM »
I know this topic has been covered over and over here and elsewhere, but I still want to know... I brew 1-2 batches per month at 10-18# per batch, and occasionally 25# batches. Where is my money best spent: JSP malt mill, Barley Crusher, Cereal Killer, Monster Mill 2/3. By moving to all grain and buying in bulk, my per pound grain savings almost pay for any of these options. I just really dont want to pay for more than I need. I wont necessarily be moving up to much larger batches until I get something to help me(pump, or other automation), so where is my money best spent? I have read up on all of these options, just not sure what the best fit for me is. As stated, I am currently brewing 1-2 batches per month using 12-15# per batch and may brew the occasional  9G batches to split (but then I am sure my brewing frequency would fall.) As I said above, my bulk savings will pay for any of these options, I just dont want to buy bigger than I need(not looking to leap into profitable production volumes on this scale). In recent purchases, I have easily saved about $145 in bulk grain buying, with no end in sight for bulk purchases. I can add a drill easily to any mill purchase I make, but am not necessarily making that leap right away. What are your mill thoughts and why? Barley Crusher is on sale at 20% off, but is that a better choice for me than the cereal killer at less than half the cost? I just dont know. It is time for me to buy a mill, as I have been buying base malt in bulk, help me decide which mill i the mill for me. I am a relative newbie, with temp control, just looking for the next step in consistency without a lot of automation. I think I am looking for your thoughts on hand cranking these weights, versus drill powered milling of the same type poundages. All thoughts welcome, anything I dont spend on a mill will likely go into other equipment or ingredients, so help me figure out where to put my $$$$$!

22
Beer Recipes / "Germerican IPA"
« on: November 05, 2014, 12:31:02 PM »
I received an email from Label Peelers that they are offering a new IPA. Their description roughly says it is in tribute to first known hop cultivation in Germany many years ago. The story is not all that important, so facts be damned. I think the general idea sounds good: American IPA with German influence. Their kit calls for American extract plus German specialty malts(nothing named specifically) and newish German hops: Mandarina Bavaria and Hull Melon(both named). I would like to try to put something like this together but in all grain, so I was thinking:
American 2 Row 68%
Dark Munich 20%
Victory 5.5%
Vienna 5.5%
Weyerman Chocolate Rye 1%(mainly for color)
I have not used these hops before but have read about them here on the forum, but I can make a RWAG about using them. I was wondering about a good German bittering hop that might fit in here?
Their recipe calls for 42-46 IBUs, I'd likely go a little higher, close to 1:1 IBU/GU factor, and the grist is just a slight variation on what I already like in my IPA, with a little more German flourish
This is another brew for "someday" so no big rush. What are your experiences with anything along these lines, or your thoughts about the idea in general? Anything you would change drastically? Tell me if you hate it or love it and why
I suppose this appeals to me because of my love of IPA, and the little German heritage I have.

Hope I'm not stepping on any copyright issues by using the dealer's name or the name of their offering

23
Equipment and Software / Refrigeration Space
« on: November 03, 2014, 07:45:51 PM »
Not sure if this should be in equipment or not, but it is equipment related. I have a 7.2cf chest freezer with Johnson digital controllers for managing the freezer and a fermwrap. I have my Dunkel in the freezer now at 8 days and have started to slowly raise the temp. When I checked it, it had gone from 1.054 down to 1.02, or 68.5% attenuation thus far roughly. Trying to mimic the modified lager schedule that was discussed on my post "My first lager" I plan on raising it a couple degrees a day (3) till I hit 65, leave for 3 days or until no diacetyl and FG has been reached. My question is this, I also store my finished beers in this chest freezer. What will happen if these go from the 50 they have been sitting at, slowly up to 65, then slowly back down to 35? The beers in question are a little of my Split open and Melt RIS from Big Brew, a couple Double Hazelnut Browns, a Märzen or 2, and assorted store bought beers. Do I need to find another way? My basement has been in the mid fifties the last 5 days or so, so I could just pull them, leave them out in basement and hope temp does not spike up? What are your thoughts?
Edit for typo

24
Beer Recipes / Next batch
« on: October 28, 2014, 08:59:08 PM »
So I think my next batch will be 11/9/14 and I plan on trying out Denny's BVIP, with the recipe from the wiki here. Any thoughts, tips, or tweaks any of you have made? I know everyone raves about this brew, so I want to make it, just looking for any insight other than what is listed in the wiki

25
Equipment and Software / My BruGear kettle
« on: October 25, 2014, 03:17:28 PM »
My new kettle has TC connections and came with an adaptor for the included ball valve. When cleaning my kettle, this connection leaked between the adaptor and the valve. It was not the TC connection, but no matter how hard I tried, I could not tighten the valve on the adaptor enough to prevent he leak. This was with warm to hot cleaning water so I am worried about the connection's performance during a boil with the pressure of 8.5 gallons above it. Any ideas on how to seal it up tighter? I have plenty of plumbers tape but not sure how well that works with a boil or if it's a clean enough connection. Unless I hear otherwise, I am going to just do my best and if it leaks heating my strike water, I will be using my old kettle

26
Beer Recipes / BCS Dunkel
« on: October 20, 2014, 02:55:10 PM »
Looking at making a Dunkel from BCS this weekend. Grist as follows: 12.5# Munich II(11.7srm) and 5oz Carafa II(430srm) for 6 gallon batch.
My LHBS lists both Carafa 1 & 3 but no 2. If I cannot get the 2, what quantity of which of the other 2 should I go with? First time I have made this, so I am not too concerned about the color change on such a small quantity, just want to be in the ball park. Beersmith has me at following specs: OG 1.054, Color 19.7 and ABV of 5.1% so I have some leeway. I already have the Munich II but not milled yet. Once purchased I can set this back up in Beersmith to be where I want to be, if I make the right purchase. Not sure what flavor differences the 3 tyoes of Carafa bring to the table
Next question is pH. I set it up in Bru'NWater as Brown Malty profile, and worked to get the pH to 5.48(the software says 5.4-5.5 for darker beers) is this where I want to be? Nothing measured out yet for water additions, so I can set it just about anywhere with gypsum, epsom, CaCl2, pickling lime, and baking soda. I'm still new to water treatments, again, just want to be in the ball park
Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance

27
Beer Recipes / Pilsner Help
« on: September 29, 2014, 01:22:32 PM »
Thinking about trying out a Pilsner recipe from NHC Gold Medal Recipes. It was the Barky Pilsner. I have a couple questions about the recipe and making it.
Firstly, has anyone made this recipe, it sounds great?
Second: what should I target for water profile, as I am new to Bru'nWater: Pilsen, Yellow (bitter,malty, balanced) just going from Pilsen to any of the others, makes a huge change in additions to my RO water. As an example, pilsen calls for 7ppm Ca while Yellow balanced calls for 50ppm. Just really dont know what to target.
BJCP guidelines call for " Moderate to moderately-low yet well attenuated maltiness, although some grainy flavors and slight Pils malt sweetness are acceptable. Hop bitterness dominates taste and continues through the finish and lingers into the aftertaste. Hop flavor can range from low to high but should only be derived from German noble hops." So it seems like I could target balanced, bitter, or even malty through different arts of that quoted description. I guess bitter comes through it the most, but...
Any info anyone can offer will be a big help

28
Ingredients / Reading a Malt Analysis sheet
« on: September 27, 2014, 02:45:46 PM »
http://www.weyermann.de/pdf_analyses/P138-003060-01.pdf

From the above sheet, as I try to input into Beersmith, I am wondering about my Diastatic power. Is it a default of Munich of 70 Lintner, or can I find a more batch specific number on this sheet?
Is my yield the 78.1% or the 81.5%?
I googled EBC to SRM and came up with brewtoad converter telling me that I was at 7.6SRM, does this sound correct? I also bought a sack of Munich type 2 that came out to 11.6 from same converter.
Moisture and protein were easy to find, the others stumped me. Anything anyone can tell me would be appreciated

29
Equipment and Software / Tri-Clamps
« on: September 25, 2014, 08:24:04 AM »
Now that I have my new Bru-Gear 15 gallon kettle with tri-clamp fittings for valve and thermometer, i have some questions:
1) When closing the clamps, besides tight enough, how tight should they be tightened? Is finger tight good enough, or tighter
2) How long should I expect the gaskets to last, and where to source replacements
3) I am assuming a big advantage is being able to take apart to fully clean, so I should take apart after each use for cleaning?
4) Looking for suggestions for pick up tube for the valve
5) Any other thoughts on these fittings you can share

30
Other Fermentables / First Cider
« on: September 03, 2014, 05:59:01 PM »
Here's a pic of my cider after 17 days in primary. There was no evidence of this separation effect when I left for LA last Wednesday, so I'm just curious. Is this how cider fermentation behaves? The carboy has been in that cooler of ice water the whole time, between 67-70 degrees, it has not been crashed. Is there usually such distinct stratification when undisturbed? This is in primary and has been the whole time. Never seen any of my beers look this way, so it made me wonder. The whole thing looks like the egg drop soup everyone refers to when talking about the hot break. Recipe was 5 gallons of fresh local pasteurized cider, 2# corn sugar, with S-04. Take a look and tell me what you think...



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