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Messages - BrewQwest

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Yeast and Fermentation / Lager strains
« on: November 15, 2010, 06:42:13 PM »
In the ale world, many brewers freely substitute the WL001, WY1056 and the S-05 as being the Chico Strain. Being new to the lager world, would the WL830, WY2124 and S-23 all be considered the same German Strain? The descriptors on these just say they are the most popular German Strain...just curious.. cheers!

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Distributor Pressures
« on: November 15, 2010, 01:59:10 PM »
Yes, go long.  I find the effective restriction is less than 2 psi per foot in my system.  So start with a longer hose than you think you need and cut it to get the right pour.
thanks guys, now aside from the resistance of the beer line itself, I would imagine you would have to add in the resistance of the keg connector (corny keg - black outlet connector), and the picnic tap.  If I had REAL taps then I would imagine the resistance of those would have to be taken into consideration as well. Is there any documentation anywhere which describes how much resistance these devices place into the over all system.  Guess I am just trying to get it boiled down to some constants here, but I am beginning to think that will not be the case... Is this a never ending struggle, or once you have your system down, is it just a matter of changing hose sizes for the various styles which request different volumes of carbonation? cheers!!

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Distributor Pressures
« on: November 14, 2010, 06:49:02 PM »
Pressure on all kegs will be the same unless you have multiple regulators.
15 psi says you should have 7-8 ft of 3/16 beerline  between the keg and your taps (2.2 psi per foot approx.)
Most of us have shorter lines.
Fred, you state approximately 2.2 psi of resisitance in the 3/16 inch beerline, but Ray Daniels (head of cicerone and author of "Designing Great Beers" states their is 3 psi resisitance per foot of 3/16.  Which is correct?

Kegging and Bottling / Distributor Pressures
« on: November 14, 2010, 03:02:28 PM »
Ok, new to kegging and have a newb question about utilizing one of those gas line distributors.  If I set my tank pressure to 15psi going into the distribution block and I have three kegs attached to the output of the distribution block, am I getting 15 psi into each keg or only 5 psi into each keg? Sorry for the newb question but I am kind of visualizing it as a resistive parallel circuit in which the sum of the reciprocals equate to the total resistance.  cheers!!

Yeast and Fermentation / Wyeast 1450
« on: October 24, 2010, 02:40:10 PM »
I brewed a cream ale with this yeast which turned out terrific after lagering it for a few weeks to drop the yeast.  I am currently using the cream ale's primary harvest of this yeast to chomp through a batch of Denny's Rye IPA.  My OG was 1.072 and it has been fermenting in the primary now for three and a half weeks.  The very center of the fermentor is temp controlled at 67F.  My question:  It is still bubbling away at a couple bubbles per minute. There is a very thin layer of yeast (I hope that's what it is) still laying on top.  Does this yeast have a reputation for being slower on the higher gravity beers? I was hoping to get this one into the dry hopping phase after 3 weeks, but as long as it is still bubbling away I don't want to transfer it. I have NEVER racked a brew to secondary that is still showing signs of fermentation. That much bubbling per day indicates fermentation or infection to me.  Thoughts anyone?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: placing a chest freezer "keezer" in Garage
« on: September 16, 2010, 04:13:28 PM »
thank you all for your inputs... Here in MN the garage can get down to below freezing temps late December through February.. Using the light bulb with the metal coffee can is a great idea... thanks!!

Kegging and Bottling / placing a chest freezer "keezer" in Garage
« on: September 15, 2010, 12:18:03 PM »
I'm from the upper midwest and I had heard from someone that not all chest freezers have the ability to withstand the frigid winters in unheated garages. Something about the coil kicking out when the temps fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Has anybody else heard this or was the guy talking out his back side? You would think the manufacturers would have some sort of warning on their freezers if this were true wouldn't you.  cheers!!

Ingredients / Re: IBU confusion
« on: August 31, 2010, 12:09:36 AM »
thank you for such a quick response.  But could you elaborate a little more by what you mean?  In your response, the 50 IBU's you refer to would be different dependent upon the style wouldn't it?  Or am I missing a point here which could be very beneficial and educational to me?  ... cheers!!

Ingredients / IBU confusion
« on: August 30, 2010, 11:04:57 PM »
I greatly apologize if this subject has been discussed elsewhere, but a search came up empty. Many of you veteran brewers have gone out of your way sharing your recipes.  My confusion is derived from the IBU's many of the recipes claim to have.  I use BeerSmith for my software.  I can only set it for one type of IBU calculations at a time.  I am in the process of getting the ingredients for Denny's Rye IPA.  Where in all of these recipes do I find which scale was used for IBU's?  Tinseth gives me a much less IBU and ratio than Rager does. Depending upon the style, there can be a great disparity between those two scales.  Do I assume Tinseth unless the recipe notates Rager?  Or the other way around?  Denny, if you see this, do you use Tinseth or Rager?  Is there a common default scale for these recipes you have all so unselfishly uploaded?  Thank you all !!   cheers!!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stuck BarleyWine
« on: April 02, 2010, 07:04:34 PM »
I don't think champagne yeast will do ya any're not looking at an alcohol tolerance issue as far as I can tell.  Even though you've got a lb. of sugar in there, the extract, 2 lb. of crystal and 1 lb. of dark grains are working against you.  If you repitch, I'd recommend either about 3 packs of US-05 or a qt. or so of an actively fermenting starter.

denny, to educate me further, is that because of the UNfermentable sugars the crystal, and dark grains, and extract add to the wort?

Assuming the beer is stuck and not finished.

Make a small beer (5 gallons) with any clean yeast.
Rack to a secondary when it slows down (a few days), (a rare case of racking early)
Rack your BW onto the yeast cake (or dump your yeast cake into your BW)

I do NOT see this beer coming in less than 1.035-1.040 without an enzyme addition.


Fred, I have an English Bitter on some S-04 fermenting away now.  The temp will begin to reverse (cool below the 68F I am holding it at) when the fermentation begins to subside. Would that be the approximate time to pitch the barleywine onto the the yeastcake of the Bitters?  Can you elaborate what an enzyme addition is?  If indeed, the beer is done, will it always have this sweet of a taste to it or will it subside in a few months or years?  thank you...

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stuck BarleyWine
« on: April 02, 2010, 03:01:08 PM »
ok, no change in reading since my first posting a week ago.. still sitting at 1.050 and tastes sickeningly sweet...with my computations I figure only a 58% attenuation so far...I have never made a barley wine before, but this tastes like a batch waiting to have yeast pitched into it to eat the sugars...Would anyone recommend rehydrating champagne yeast and pitching it?..I do not have access to a microbrewery for obtaining a growler full of yeast...Any help would be appreciated...thank you....

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stuck BarleyWine
« on: March 26, 2010, 11:34:05 PM »
I also wouldn't get too freaked out at only 10 days....
I missed that,  thanks Denny

Figured you had or you would have mentioned it!

BrewQuest, just leave it alone for another week or 2 and let us know what's going on then.
thanks for your help guys.. Actually tomorrow will be the end of the 3rd week in the fermentor (21 days).  I noticed the ceased bubbling activity after the 10th day timeframe......I will be taking another reading in the next day or two as I rack this into a long term secondary as I need the fermentor for a new batch.  I will let you know the gravity again at that time...

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stuck BarleyWine
« on: March 26, 2010, 01:02:18 PM »
What temp is your beer at now? Try rousing the yeast and warming up the beer to 72ish.
The interior center of the carboy is holding steady at 68F..Once the beer cools to 67F, heat is applied to the fermentation chamber until the center of the wort reaches 68F once again.(temp probe is inside a SS thermowell inserted through the stopper reaching the center of the carboy). Please forgive but I forgot to mention that the BarleyWine was pitched on top of a combination WL001 and S-05 yeastcake (a 1.050 pale ale was racked to secondary to free up the yeast cake for the BarleyWine).  The pints of WL001 and S-05 were made into a starter and pitched into the BarleyWine as my first attempt to rouse the incomplete fermentation. Since that was unsuccessful, I figured I better ask some questions before I really mess up the beer.

What was your recipe and mash profile including temps and times.  To properly respond I need to see if you have the fermentable sugars to get down to 1.020, that is 83 to 84% attenuation and you need to modify your normal procedures to achieve those levels.

For a 6 gallon batch:  Mash was single infusion at 152F for one hour, no mash out, 7 pounds of pale liquid extract, 11 pounds of 2-Row, 2 pounds of various Crystal malts, 8 ounce white wheat, 1 pound of various darker specialty malts (for mouthfeel and for color), and a pound of sugar.

General Homebrew Discussion / stuck BarleyWine
« on: March 25, 2010, 11:20:08 PM »
Ok, I have searched under 'stuck fermentations' and after an hour I have decided to post this. Please forgive if a duplicate. I normally make my beers no more than a 1.068 in gravityand use O2. Well, I made my first BarleyWine at 1.120 and I forgot to use the oxygen. I still shook the beejeezus out of it but after 10 days of really slow bubbling (slow fermentation?), it has ceased and desisted... I used a blend of WL001 and S-05 (1 pint jar of each from harvested cakes but NOT a pint of slurry each) and am now only at 1.050 and I need to get to 1.020... what are my options and how do I get there. I have only been brewing for about 15 months so please don't go too far over my head with your responses... cheers!!

wow, thanks for all the responses everyone.  The Jan and Feb cold dry MN winter months really did a number on my boil offs (this is my first winter season as an outdoor all-grain brewer).. Normally I try to start with 7 to 7.5 gallons so as to end with about 5.5 to 6 in the kettle. Lately I have been coming up really short, so two batches ago I boiled 8 and ended with 4.25 and last batch I started with 9 and ended with 4.75... Being the newb that I am, I was hoping for a way to associate my intended OG with volume remaining in the kettle so that I could end the boil when the proper gravity/volume was reached... I hadn't thought of possibly upsetting the IBU profile if I quit boiling before the 55-60 minutes mark, so thank you for stating that....Also hadn't thought of just turning off the heat to take a reading and then turning it back on again....  :-[  ...  Guess I just go with 9.5 preboil next time in order to hopefully hit my 5.5 to 6 remaining.  Shouldn't I be able to track the boil off by computing
preboil BRIX multiplied by preboil Volume which will give me preboil gravity units.  15 minutes into the boil I should be able to take another BRIX reading and divide those preboil gravity units by my new BRIX reading to give me the new remaining Volume... But as someone earlier said, it is impossible to cut short the boil if you have late hop additions going in..... So even after I know the exact point when my volume and gravity had been reached, there would be nothing to do about it until after the boil had run its time limit anyway...Hhhmmmmm....

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