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Messages - BrodyR

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nitro
« on: July 29, 2015, 08:17:36 PM »
+1 to carb and serve all on nitro. You need about half the volume of CO2 to get that smooth, silky head. If you nitro pour on too carbed a beer, you get that full head of big, gnarly bubbles instead.

So instead of using 13 psi of CO2, use 25-30 psi of Nitro blend (25% CO2). That put a partial pressure of 6-7 psi CO2 headspace, and thus half the volume of CO2. This method does take longer, but if youre in no rush, leave it on nitro gas a couple of weeks then good to go.

I ended up going the nitro carb route (also recommended in the conference seminar Bruce pointed me to). 40psi @ 33f for 4 days was the suggested method I'm trying. Then I'll drop the gas down and raise the temp up a bit to serve.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nitro
« on: July 24, 2015, 10:29:34 AM »
I'm thinking the big pro of carbonating + serving with Nitro would be ease and consistency with the con being that the blend is more expensive.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nitro
« on: July 24, 2015, 10:28:48 AM »
Just listened to the conference talk. I thought it was interesting that Juice was recommending carbonating + serving with beergas, I thought most people carbed with C02 then just used the beer gas/stout tap to get the Nitro effect.

Anyone have any experience both ways and which may work better?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nitro
« on: July 24, 2015, 08:13:32 AM »
Nice, thanks - just found the seminar.  Looks like that's my lunch break plans now.

General Homebrew Discussion / Nitro
« on: July 24, 2015, 07:23:29 AM »
I think I'm going to run out to my LHBS this evening and finally pull the trigger on a nitro setup.

I currently keg so I assume all I'll need is a stout faucet, a beer gas tank, and regulator - I have no experience with nitro so is their anything I should be aware of? My plan was to lightly carb with C02, switch over to beer gas to serve, and run it through the stout faucet.

Hoping this works out well and I'll be pulling an ordinary bitter next week with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fullers - WLP 002
« on: July 24, 2015, 07:19:07 AM »
I've heard of the Ballantine - Chico link before but never new if it was the same strain or just derived from it. Is it public knowledge where Ballantine got the strain from themselves?

Shook up the fermentor and will check back in at the 2 week mark on Monday.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fullers - WLP 002
« on: July 23, 2015, 12:51:14 PM »
Sounds good - I'll pull another sample at the 2 week mark and debate if I want to give it a 3rd.

Really low gravity - it went from 1.034 to the Final of 1.010 pretty quick. Sample didn't taste too wimpy though with all the malt and yeast character in it.

Another anecdote about the strain. During an AHA rally at Yards Brewing Co in Philly last week I got to chat with the brewer for a bit and found out Fullers is their house strain (They tend to brew hybrid American-British styles). They ferment at 68f and have significantly less esters than Fullers and no real trace of Diacytel so it works well in their IPA/APA. The brewer said he thought Fullers may actually ferment warmer than WLP002's suggest max of 68f.

Yeast and Fermentation / Fullers - WLP 002
« on: July 23, 2015, 08:04:37 AM »
I brewed my first batch with this strain (an ordinary bitter - Muntons MO, Thomas Fawcett C45, Boadicea Hops) and good lord everyone wasn't kidding about how flocculant it is! I'm 10 days from brewery and just pulled a sample and it was clearer than any beer I've made even after a cold crash. 

I did detect a bit of diacytel, while it doesn't seem out of place for this strain/style I was hoping to tone it down a bit. Should I just rouse the fermentor and bump the temp to 70f or something for a few days? I fermented at 65f.

Ingredients / Re: Best way to reduce Ph
« on: July 22, 2015, 02:02:50 PM »
I've used Gypsum, Calcium Chloride and Acid Malt in all my test mashes and gotten consistent pH no matter what the grain bill was.

My approach as well - works well so far, pH ends up pretty close to the Brun Water estimate.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water for an Oktoberfest?
« on: July 21, 2015, 07:05:43 AM »
Thanks for the help everyone, I've been working off this thread and Martins Amber Malty profile as a guide too and ended up with this at the moment (distilled blended with Philly tap, 3g CaCl addition, 2g Gypsum addition, acid malt for pH)

Finished Water Profile         

Ca 49   
Mg 2   
Na 5   
S04 43
Cl 62   
Bicarbonate 13

pH 5.3

Anything stand out that should be improved?

All Grain Brewing / Water for an Oktoberfest?
« on: July 20, 2015, 06:48:51 AM »
I'm about to try my first true lager and had a question about water. I've been messing around a lot lately with Sulfate & Chloride in my pale ales but wasn't sure what an appropriate level is for a malty lager.

My first thought was to target around 50 or 60ppm each of sulfate & chloride, shoot for a 5.3ph, and at least 50ppm calcium. Any thoughts?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long to let a starter cook?
« on: July 16, 2015, 07:11:18 AM »
How long does everyone typically let a starter go for before pitching? I've usually waited a day and try to pitch than the krausen is up but was thinking about pitching one around hour 14 tonight.

Fourteen hours of incubation time is more than long enough for a 1L starter that was inoculated with a vial of White Labs yeast that is less than 4 months old.   Most strains take less than 6 hours to exit the lag phase (many will exit the lag phase in less than 3 hours). The average White Labs vial contains 50 billion viable yeast cells when pitched (100 billion at time of packaging).  Yeast cells divide approximately every 90 minutes after the lag phase has been exited, which means that the culture will contain approximately 100 billion cells 90 minutes after exiting the lag phase.  A 1L starter that was pitched with 50 billion viable cells will reach maximum cell density approximately 3 hours after exiting the lag phase, or roughly 9 hours total for most yeast strains.  Given enough O2, carbon, physical room to grow, the time to reach 400 billion cells is approximately 10.5 hours, and the time to reach 800 billion cells is approximately 12 hours.

A key point to remember is that the yeast biomass grows exponentially, not linearly.  The growth rate is 2n, where n equals the number of minutes that have elapsed since exiting the lag phase divided by 90.  The equation for calculating the approximate number of cells at any point during incubation given an initial cell count is:

cell_count_at_time_n = initial_cell_count * 2(elapsed_time_since_exiting_the_lag_period_in_minutes / 90)

The equation shown above is bounded by O2, carbon, and media volume. 

One last thing, starters should be incubated at room temperature.

This is great info, thanks Mark.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long to let a starter cook?
« on: July 14, 2015, 06:00:33 AM »
Appreciate all the advice - I ended up waiting until this morning and I'm crashing the yeast out now then will decant and pitch. My plan was to throw the whole starter in but I decided I should have more headspace in the keg.

I'm pretty excited to try out two new things with this batch, fermenting in a corny and a corny to corny transfer into the serving keg.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long to let a starter cook?
« on: July 13, 2015, 04:42:35 PM »
Yea, the vial would probably be fine with the gravity. I figured I'd error on the side of a starter since beer smith suggested more cells and I hear that a heartier pitch with 002 should reduce esters and diacytel

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long to let a starter cook?
« on: July 13, 2015, 01:19:18 PM »
It's a one liner starter of WLP002 thats been showing some life (made it around 9:30am this morning). Basically I'm debating if I should pitch it around midnight tonight or let the wort sit in a corny overnight and pitch in the morning (so 22 hour starter/delay pitch or 14hr starter pitched as soon as the wort hits 70f).

The beer is pretty light, 1.033 ordinary bitter. 

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