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Messages - madscientist

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1
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg... "Logistics"
« on: March 17, 2014, 09:41:42 AM »
I'd have to start by relocating the compressor.  I lose a lot of space because of the lip it puts in the back of the fridge.  It's just something I don't want to delve into just yet.

if the bottom of the fridge was even with the compressor hump would there still be room for the kegs?

My keg fridge has a comressor hump and the former owner built a little platform out of wood that makes the floor level with the top of the compressor.

I did think of that, but I think it's too high up.  Although, I may be able to remove the light fixture that's inside.  I will look into this.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg... "Logistics"
« on: March 17, 2014, 09:03:54 AM »
I'd have to start by relocating the compressor.  I lose a lot of space because of the lip it puts in the back of the fridge.  It's just something I don't want to delve into just yet.

3
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg... "Logistics"
« on: March 16, 2014, 10:53:33 AM »
Thanks for the replies. 

I may be able to go the blanket/swamp cooler route as well and keep the first keg cool, but if It won't hurt the beer I can easily get it on ice at least 24 hours before.

4
Kegging and Bottling / Keg... "Logistics"
« on: March 16, 2014, 10:14:11 AM »
Hey all, I have a question.  Currently my keg fridge is only big enough for one keg and a CO2 tank ($40 craigslist find).  I am OK with this, but my wife and I are throwing a party in May, and of course I am making the beer.  I am OK with bottling one batch and kegging the other, but if I can use both of my kegs that would be even better. 

If I carbonate one keg in my fridge then move it to say a 60-68 degree room whilst the other keg carbonates for a week, is that going to cause some issues with the carbonation in the first keg?  Serving I'm not worried about because the kegs will be in a tub of ice. 

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water/Mash questions re: Kolsch
« on: March 04, 2014, 07:45:13 PM »
Since they give me the hardness, that should contain the total calcium and magnesium.  I was reading on braukaiser that generally 70% of this hardness comes from calcium.  So 30% (or 19.2 mg/L) should be the magnesium content.  That would mean 44.8 would be calcium.  But since calcium is listed already (13.9), do I add the 44.8 to 13.9, or is should I subtract the 13.9 from the 64.1 to get 50.2 for the magnesium?  Ultimately I am wondering what numbers I need to put in a water calculator. 

Unfortunately, that generalization isn't worth much. The amount of calcium or magnesium CANNOT be generalized since it is totally dependent upon the minerals the water contacted on its way to your tap. A 70/30 split between Ca and Mg may be correct in some waters, but more than likely, its not.

If the hardness and calcium values from the water report are correct, then the magnesium content is more like 7 ppm.

It's sad to see misinformation like that on the web...but it does exist.

Hey thanks for the response.  I was a bit skeptical of this and thats why I wanted to ask here whilst continuing my research.  This forum has provided some great advice over the past few years.  I did manage to work it out and got exactly what you said.  Mg is about 7.2.  Also found out that I have "moderately hard" water.  A little gypsum and CaCl2 and some lactic acid and my water should be good to go both in mineral content and pH. 

And thanks for the awesome program... putting all the CORRECT numbers in Bru'n water makes it much easier to work with :-)

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water/Mash questions re: Kolsch
« on: March 04, 2014, 05:13:50 PM »
Ok bumping this one more time because of a few questions with my water report that came up.  I thought I had everything good to go, but need some clarification.

This is what I have for my water report:

Alkalinity, total: 30.1 mg/L
Ca: 13.9 mg/L
Hardness, Carbonate: 64.1 mg/L
NO3: 1.16 mg/L
Na: 29.1 mg/L
SO4: 25.8 mg/L
Cl: 52.8 mg/L

Since they give me the hardness, that should contain the total calcium and magnesium.  I was reading on braukaiser that generally 70% of this hardness comes from calcium.  So 30% (or 19.2 mg/L) should be the magnesium content.  That would mean 44.8 would be calcium.  But since calcium is listed already (13.9), do I add the 44.8 to 13.9, or is should I subtract the 13.9 from the 64.1 to get 50.2 for the magnesium?  Ultimately I am wondering what numbers I need to put in a water calculator. 

Thanks again

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water/Mash questions re: Kolsch
« on: March 03, 2014, 01:30:17 PM »
Thanks!

Edit:  It took a while to decipher my water report and why they weren't reporting magnesium, but I was able to estimate it and it seems to work.  Some lactic acid and CaCl2 will get me to a pH right in the sweet spot. 

8
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water/Mash questions re: Kolsch
« on: March 03, 2014, 01:14:00 PM »
I also agree.

I would recommend using Bru'n water to get the amount of 88% Lactic to use, and then confirm with a pH meter if you have one.

Great thank you!  Where do I find Bru'n water?

9
All Grain Brewing / Water/Mash questions re: Kolsch
« on: March 03, 2014, 11:02:37 AM »
Hello once again,

I am looking to brew a Kolsch for my latest venture - A style I have really come to love.  I've done several All grain batches and seem to have finally dialed in my process, and I have all the necessary temp control in place for a beer like this. 

I've been reading a lot of resources and it would seem that it'd be in my best interest to shoot for a mash pH of 5.4 for this beer.  The question is what is the best way to do that?  With a grist of 93% Pils Malt and 7% Wheat malt, i should have a mash pH of roughly 5.8.  Would acid malt be the appropriate way to go, or is there a better way to treat my water to achieve my target pH? 

Once again, your help is appreciated.


10
Hey,

Just wanted to give everyone an update and thanks for the advice.  This past saturday (11/9) I did my second all grain batch and hit my anticipated OG right on the money. 

1. Amount of grain went from 10 lb to 13 lb
2. Mashed at 1.8 qt/lb
3. Preheat mash tun - Hit my target mash temp on the nose (152)
4. Heat sparge water to 180-190 deg F instead of 168.

I didn't get the grains double crushed because I forgot, but I really couldn't have asked for a better brew day, so thanks!

11
Beer Recipes / Re: Pale ale feedback
« on: November 11, 2013, 10:21:54 AM »
Thanks for the advice!  I orignally didn't figure in any Galaxy hops because my LHBS initially said they were out of stock, but when I went they had some so I snagged them. 

Went with:
0.5 oz warrior @ 60 min
0.5 oz Nelson @ 15
0.5 oz Galaxy @ 5 min
0.5 oz Nelson @ 0 min
0.5 oz Galaxy @ 0 min

Puts me at 39-41 IBUs which is where I wanted to be.

Will drop hop with an ounce of each.

12
Beer Recipes / Re: Pale ale feedback
« on: November 08, 2013, 01:52:58 PM »
LHBS has simcoe in stock so I might sub out the late warrior addition for some Simcoe.  I've been reading good thins on the Nelson Sauvin/simcoe combination.

13
Beer Recipes / Pale ale feedback
« on: November 08, 2013, 10:40:50 AM »
So I'm finally going to be able to brew my second all grain batch this weekend (albeit at 5am) with all the suggestions you guys made for increasing my efficiency.  Heading to the store after work to pick up the ingredients, and I was just hoping I could get some feedback on my next recipe (Pale Ale)

9.0 lb Maris Otter
3.0 lb Vienna
0.5 lb Crystal 20
0.5 lb Crystal 40

Mash 152 for 60 min/Batch Sparge

0.5 oz warrior @ 60 min
0.5 oz Nelson Sauvin @ 20 min
0.5 oz warrior @ 5 min
1 oz Nelson Sauvin @ flame out

ferment with US-05 @ 62-64 deg F
Dry hop 7 days with Nelson Sauvin and Zythos

Thanks!

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Security Breach at Midwest Supplies
« on: September 03, 2013, 04:59:02 PM »
Well.. this certainly explains some issues I noticed in early July.

My wife ordered me a kegging system for my birthday on her CC.  She made an account and accumulated enough points for me to get a free picnic tap for it, so I bought some other stuff as well using my CC.  A few weeks later my wife notices fraudulent charges on her CC.  A week or so later, I see fraudulent charges on mine.  It didn't occur to us it may have been midwest supplies.  Shame too, because I've ordered from both them and NB several times, and have never had any issues with the order.

15
Some great advice, and I am going to take all of this into account next batch.

1. I didn't have a chance to check what Beersmith was set at for efficiency.
2. I used 10lbs because I was under the impression 5-5.5 gal batches generally used 8-10 lbs of grain (and I'll admit, 10lbs was an easy number to work with).  From what I've read here, I need to adjust that weight for effiicency. 
3. I will try a thinner mash. 
4. Rice hulls - Again, I was under the impression they should be used for mashes with wheat, but I realize now that I may have read that for flaked wheat/rye etc.
5. I will definately start keeping (better) track of volumes etc.
6. I did a lot of research on the water with mineral content/chlorine, but I didn't really consider pH.  Again, being used to all grain and partial mash brewing I was never really concerned with it, especially since I used bottled water.
7. Temperature control - Figuring out my system so I get the proper temperatures for mash and sparge.  (Using 185 deg as opposed to 168 deg for sparging and preheating my mash tun).
8. I will ask for a second crush on my grains.

Further, I've checked out the howtobrew resource for efficiency and it definately helps me understand a lot more.

I really appreciate the feedback. 

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