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Messages - dmtaylor

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All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB spent grain
« on: Today at 11:16:32 AM »
One of the big advantages of dry yeast is that you don't need yeast starters.  But yeah, selection is limited, but getting better all the time.  If I could use dry yeast for every recipe, I would.  But some liquid yeasts are still better or required for certain styles.  Eventually probably within the next 5 years, this will no longer be the case and we'll be able to use dry for everything.  I look forward to it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: double kolsch attenuation
« on: Today at 11:13:17 AM »
There'll be plenty of yeast left to do the job. Gelatin just drops the amount of yeast below the visible threshold, but plenty are left in the beer. If it were a really big beer, adding some dry yeast at bottling might be helpful.

+1 Yes, true.

All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB spent grain
« on: July 27, 2016, 12:25:42 PM »
how long should I let it sit before pitching the starter? until I see some activity?

Yeast starters are most effective if you can let them ferment for a good 12-24 hours before using them.  Definitely wait until you see some good high foam on top before using.  Otherwise the yeast could be dead and you wouldn't know it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: double kolsch attenuation
« on: July 27, 2016, 09:05:57 AM »
I think your plan will work just perfectly.  Go for it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB spent grain
« on: July 27, 2016, 09:02:41 AM »
Thanks! That helped a lot! That's a great idea using the drippings for a starter, however, how long can this be stored. I usually only brew three or four times a year with my current situation. Can the wort be stored for a few months in the fridge if its sealed well?

Secondly, if I am not worried about haze like with darker beers or wheat beers, should be OK to squeeze just based off of how you explained this right?

Great questions again.  Wort will only keep in the fridge for 2-3 weeks before it begins to go sour all by itself.  Plus it's prone to botulism bacteria if not fermented for a few months -- potentially dangerous.  Freezing it might be a perfect option though.

Sure, if you don't care about haze, then squeeze away.  Would work well for wheat beers.

All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB spent grain
« on: July 27, 2016, 07:15:24 AM »
I think the "tannins" thing is a bit of a crock.  However squeezing can indeed cause starch haze in the final beer if your mash hasn't fully converted.

Personally I incorporate a dunk sparge for improved efficiency.  And I always, always, always add every single drop from the draining of the bag.  Without any squeezing required.  Often times 30 or 45 minutes into the boil, I am still finding a cup or two of wort below the grain bag and I simply add it to the boil.  This will maximize efficiency.  Alternatively, sometimes I have saved the extra wort for making yeast starters, which is a great purpose for it as well but sacrifices 1 or 2 points of efficiency.

Caveat: Efficiency really isn't all THAT important anyway.  Consistency is way more important.  If you can skip a sparge or do a sloppy sparge and still get more than 70% efficiency on a consistent basis, then you've already won, keep on doing what you're doing.

I really am not a big advocate for squeezing the bag though.  It just isn't necessary.  Get yourself a colander and let gravity do all the work for you.  Then there's negligible chance for squeezing anything weird out of the grains, whether that's starch or tannins or anything else.

Great questions.  Cheers.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: isovaleric acid - sweaty socks
« on: July 27, 2016, 06:30:27 AM »
Dave, do you use iodophor or bleach occassionally for sanitizing? After Mark's illustration that Starsan doesn't work on all spoilers, I've been more open to iodophor use. I'm still leary of using bleach on my plastics and hoses, but it sure is an effective sanitizer. Occassional Hose replacement is probably still a good policy.

I haven't used bleach for many many years.  I agree, it would probably be a good idea to switch sanitizers more often.  This advice applies to all homebrewers of course, not just me or people who are having problems.  Maybe every 5 or 6 batches or so we should be switching it up.  And the hose thing, definitely more often than I've been doing (I think it's been about 5 years now).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Stored Hot
« on: July 26, 2016, 03:51:34 PM »
Dead yeast will smell meaty, brothy, or of burnt matches.  This usually takes longer than 3 weeks, even at elevated temperatures.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: isovaleric acid - sweaty socks
« on: July 26, 2016, 02:16:58 PM »
I got isovaleric in a recent batch.  I've decided I should replace my transfer hoses and racking cane.  It's been a few years, so a contaminant from rubber & plastic components might possibly be the culprit.  Otherwise I have a really hard time figuring out how else it might have happened.

EDIT: It actually could be old hops.  That might be an even more likely culprit.  But, I'm going to replace the old rubber & plastic regardless because it's time.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Red Ale
« on: July 26, 2016, 11:31:38 AM »
I'm unable to verify the SRM from where I'm sitting at work but assuming your calcs are correct...

Looks great to me.  Enjoy it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Stored Hot
« on: July 26, 2016, 04:43:23 AM »
It's probably fine.  Making yeast starters is still the best idea as some of the cells might have died.  But many of the cells probably survived.

All Grain Brewing / Re: More pedestrian questions
« on: July 25, 2016, 11:53:25 AM »
When I saw that the Duvel recipe included pear extract, I gave up.
Yeah, just lame. If you ferment it right you get that from the yeast.   :)

FYI --- WLP400 witbier yeast throws a lot of pear ester.  I'll bet it would be wonderful in a Duvel clone.

All Grain Brewing / Re: More pedestrian questions
« on: July 25, 2016, 11:47:56 AM »
Sweet reference.  I have the utmost respect for Mr. Mosher, he's one of the very few "celebrities" (besides Denny) who really seems to "get it".  I'll confess I have purchased Mastering Homebrew with the intent of reading it soon, as it looks like a phenomenal and super detailed book..... but I'm not as much a reader these days as I once was (damned worthless Facebook is such an evil and wasteful distraction!), so this book that I'm sure is excellent still sits on my huge pile of things I've yet to read.

Looks good to me, but I'm confused about the clarity question.  I've used both the Kölsch yeast and wheat in some beers (in fact, some wheat winds up in ALL of my beers), but have never had cloud or haze issues.    The brews have always been perfectly bright.

+1, totally agree, I was going to say the same thing.  The beer might start out with a slight haze but should clear in a few weeks.

Ingredients / Re: vienna malt for mild
« on: July 23, 2016, 06:37:07 AM »
You can probably come up with a close approximation by using American Pale malt and then just include like 2% biscuit malt in the total grist, something like that.  Not exact but in the ballpark.

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