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Messages - dmtaylor

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starter for 1 Gallon Batch?
« on: March 03, 2015, 10:44:52 AM »
What about sub 5 gallon batches? Using WLP001 on a 3 gallon pale ale. Starter?

Risky.  3 gallons is not far from 5 gallon, and with liquid yeast you never know for sure how good the storage was between manufacturer and your own refrigerator.  I'd make a starter for 3 gallons, even if only one liter.  Only exception might be for hefeweizen where underpitching is arguably better than the standard pitch rate anyway.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash pH
« on: February 28, 2015, 04:48:51 AM »
A tablespoon of each wouldn't kill any brew starting with soft water and would certainly fix the pH issue.  If your water already has some minerals then use less.

Beer Recipes / Re: figs & honey in porter
« on: February 27, 2015, 08:15:32 AM »
I bet it will taste good.  Yes, fermentation will take off again even after lagering, and you'll need to give it sufficient time to finish (like another 2-3 weeks).  You'll want to use at least a pound of fruit per gallon, and 2 pounds per gallon would be even better.  So if you are limited in the amount of fruit that you have, then you are limited in how many gallons of this you can make.

Best of luck.  I think this will taste very good.

Lots of very hot water.  I usually rinse my beer glasses several times in the sink with hot water immediately after use.  Then just prior to use, I rinse in the sink again a couple of times, this time with cool water.  Unless there's something sticky that needs better cleaning, I usually just do the hot rinse and don't use soap.  At least for my own use.  If I were serving friends then I would pull clean glassware out of the cabinet and do the cool rinse thing immediately before serving to remove any possibility of soapy residue.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CaraPils and CaraAroma in Same Beer?
« on: February 25, 2015, 05:54:17 PM »
this is an old homebrewing myth


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What kind of beer would these make
« on: February 24, 2015, 02:00:41 PM »
I take S. boulardii supplements and they certainly do give me beer-flavored burps.  With all that other junk in there though, yeah, I bet you'd end up with a weird sour beer.  Might be worth a 1-gallon experiment!!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CaraPils and CaraAroma in Same Beer?
« on: February 24, 2015, 07:59:38 AM »
Carapils in general is nearly worthless in most recipes.  It becomes useful where you don't want appreciable caramel flavor but you want to guarantee good body/mouthfeel, like say in a graf or a blonde ale or something like that.  I don't know if it truly enhances foam and head retention like everyone says.  More experiments would be necessary.  I only use Carapils in my graf, that is all.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Light American Lager guidelines
« on: February 20, 2015, 10:06:34 AM »
I don't like sulfur at all.  Luckily it always ages out.  Unluckily for light lager, you want to drink the beer young.  Hopefully it ages out and still tastes fresh.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1056 vs White Labs WLP 001
« on: February 19, 2015, 10:08:07 PM »
Why is dry yeast better?  It's convenient skipping the starter, dry yeast keeps 5 times longer than liquid yeast, yadda yadda......

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1056 vs White Labs WLP 001
« on: February 19, 2015, 03:30:58 PM »
With any yeast strains that are so-called equivalent, there will always be differences since the yeast evolves over time.  Now, the differences could be very slight, or very significant.  In this case, the three strains are all similar enough that most people don't care too much.  Personally I like US-05 which I believe is the most attenuative of the bunch, close to 80% with the others more around mid-70s for attenuation (all roughly on the average and recipe-dependent, of course).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Barons Priming Sugar
« on: February 16, 2015, 08:26:00 PM »
Maybe it's not priming sugar.  Maybe it's intended to be part of the fermentation.  Ever heard the term "kit & kilo"?  Not exactly a kilo here but a little something.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Temp/Thickness Taste Perception
« on: February 16, 2015, 02:21:09 PM »
I am the cheapest homebrewer on the planet Earth.  I still have the same thermometer and hydrometer from 1999 that I use on every batch.  I still have my original fermentation bucket, although now it is used for milling the grain or other non-fermentation uses.  I do not own a chiller or a pump or fermentation fridge or kegging equipment or anything else costing more than a grain mill.  I did not buy my grain mill, I received it as a gift.  My kettle is the original as well, only 4 gallons.  The list goes on.

 :o 8)

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Temp/Thickness Taste Perception
« on: February 16, 2015, 02:10:56 PM »
I have my good old big fat alcohol thermometer that came with my starters kit in 1999.  Stick into the mash in one spot, leave it there for 20 seconds, take the reading, move to another spot, wait 20 seconds, etc.  I'm kind of a dork but hey, it works.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Temp/Thickness Taste Perception
« on: February 16, 2015, 02:07:38 PM »
It takes a good 5 to 10 minutes for temperatures to even out in the mash tun after the strike.  That's what I'm talking about.  If you see mostly hot spots in those first couple of minutes, then worry a little bit.  If you see a lot of hot spots after about 5 minutes, then worry more.  After 10 minutes, worry a lot.

Also I don't like ice.  It takes time for ice to melt.  I prefer to just add cold water, if available.  Faster reaction time I believe.  It doesn't take much.  Never much more than 2 cups, maybe a quart at most to bring temperature down by like 10 degrees or more.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Temp/Thickness Taste Perception
« on: February 16, 2015, 01:56:30 PM »
The only time I worry is when I accidentally strike the mash too hot in the 160s.  If you go way too hot in the 170s then you need to take care of this right away or you'll kill the alpha as well as the beta.  Either way, fortunately it takes a while to kill all your enzymes, so if you add 2 cups cold water and stir into the mash within a few minutes of the strike, you're fine.  If I want to mash at about 150 F but hit 157-158 F, I don't worry too much.  Sometimes I add cold water, but sometimes I'll just stir a lot and leave the lid off the mash tun for a while and let the temp fall over the course of the mash to get those beta enzymes working again.  They don't all get denatured too quickly as far as I can tell.

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