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Messages - dmtaylor

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Thanks for sharing this.  It's been tossed around for decades whether aging on the shelf is what gives lagers "that German flavor", or "it".  I'm sure many will say "no way in hell, that's totally wrong".  But, why not experiment and find out.  I don't have the answers on this.  I'll just say what I always say: more experiments are needed.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: lemon flavor
« on: May 22, 2018, 09:05:44 PM »
and dont forget Sorachi Ace hops... late addition and dry hop.

That's more like dill to me than lemon.

As I'd indicated previously (and copied below), based on my reviews of the genome study results, I didn't think 1056 and WLP051 could be equivalent.  I wasn't sure if 1056 might be a lager yeast, while WLP051 probably IS a lager yeast.

EDIT: And... forgot to mention... I *do* believe Sierra Nevada is 1056.  WLP051 on the other hand is supposedly Anchor Liberty.  Source: be clear, WLP051 and Wyeast 1056 are NOT equivalent.  They are very very distant cousins.

BRY-96 = Wyeast 1056, AND NOTHING ELSE!  NOTHING else is exactly equivalent!  1056 is unique!

BRY-97 = WLP051 = 1272, AND NOTHING ELSE!  Nothing else is exactly equivalent!  And if I'm right in my interpretation as explained above, then all 3 of these might be pastorianus...

...the pastorianus *might* indeed be limited to just BRY-97 = WLP051 = 1272...

EDIT #2: Hell... now expert "qq" says he doesn't think 1272 is actually the same as WLP051, but rather is more closely related to WLP002 and WLP007... and "German" ale yeast WLP029!  He found a different study separating 1272 from WLP051.  To be clear: Of all these, WLP051 is the only one identified verily as pastorianus.

Hmm.... gonna be a while longer before we get all this stuff straight.

The Pub / Re: Beer brewed with Great Lakes Water
« on: May 20, 2018, 04:15:04 PM »

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Speaking of Weizen...
« on: May 20, 2018, 03:21:41 PM »
Since this is such a yeast-driven style, I honestly don't think the malts matter a ton.  I aim for 50-60% wheat malt with German pils and perhaps a touch of Caramunich to make up the balance.

Still searching for the right yeast though.  For some reason I never used WLP300 yet but based on a lot of research it appears this is the best final answer.  I have had mixed results with WLP380, sometimes it was great.  I have had terrible results with many other yeasts.  In general I have decided to cut back a lot on "experimentation", and simply use what makes the most sense.  Simplify everything.  I am done over-complicating every damn thing.  So next time I might not even use any Caramunich, or acid malt, or oats, or melanoidin, or any other small ingredient.  Just KISS.

Beer Recipes / Re: could I call it a Dunkelweizen?
« on: May 19, 2018, 09:48:19 PM »

Ingredients / Re: Hops: how old is too old?
« on: May 19, 2018, 12:08:05 PM »
If they smell good, they're good.  If they smell freezer-burned, they're not.  If in between, they're in between and thus should be reserved for bittering only.

The Pub / Re: Doesn't this seem wrong somehow?
« on: May 18, 2018, 06:41:34 PM »
It's fine by me.

As with any wheat beer, I might feel inclined to tip the bottle or can upside down one time gently to get a little yeast back into suspension... just in case.  I don't mind kristalweizen, but something about a kristalwit would just seem slightly wrong to me... moreso than it being in a can.  In a bottle, I can look for haze prior to popping the cap.  In a can, cannot.  So my little ritual of turning wheats upside down might make even more sense now then.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Trying to hurry bottle carbonation
« on: May 18, 2018, 06:16:51 PM »

The originally pitched yeast says:

But I suppose you can put more live ones on the cart anyway... if you really want.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Trying to hurry bottle carbonation
« on: May 18, 2018, 05:14:37 PM »
I've been bottling every batch since 1998.  I can very confidently say that you definitely do NOT need to add any more yeast.  If you do, you'll just have a ton of sludge on the bottom of every bottle, but no advantage from adding it.

I thought of one other concern with my above recommendation of cardboard & light bulb --- be sure to shield the bottles from the light to avoid skunking.  This can be done very simply by covering the bottles with a cloth so they aren't hit by direct light.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Trying to hurry bottle carbonation
« on: May 18, 2018, 04:22:10 PM »
If you could put the bottles under a cardboard box with an old incandescent light bulb for several days (just leave the light on the whole time), with the intent of keeping the temperature to about 90-95 F, the bottles should carbonate fast with whatever yeast you have in there -- no need to use any special yeast.  You'd want to monitor the temperature to ensure it doesn't get upward to 110 F or so, which could kill the yeast.  If it got that hot, punch holes in the box to let some heat out and continue to monitor.

This *should* work really well, if you can figure out the best way to make it work.

Hop Growing / Re: Help
« on: May 16, 2018, 02:29:13 AM »
My first thoughts are either insufficient watering or nitrogen. Do you water or fertilize? How's your soil moisture?

My thoughts precisely.  Water and nitrogen fertilizer.

Questions about the forum? / Re: Possible error on recent post...
« on: May 15, 2018, 10:51:57 PM »
I'll bet there was a naughty post that got deleted and led to locking.  Call me crazy but I'd kind of wondered if something like that might happen.  It wasn't me (this time), I kept my mouth shut and will shut up even more, effective riiiight.... now.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: One for the physics gurus...
« on: May 15, 2018, 01:10:36 PM »
6 hours enough?

Most likely.  Honestly, a few degrees isn't going to hurt anything anyway.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: One for the physics gurus...
« on: May 15, 2018, 11:43:33 AM »
Several hours.  Overnight or "a shift" would be good.

I could probably work out the math but I don't feel like it.

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