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Messages - dmtaylor

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466
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: infected
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:46:57 AM »
I could be wrong but I don't believe vinegar to be a curable condition.  Heat pasteurization at like 160 F for 15 minutes then repitching with more bugs might be your best bet.  You also want to ensure you have a CO2 blanket to keep the oxygen out.  If you play around with the beer too much, racking into new vessels or whatever, you lose this CO2 blanket, which can cause the acetobacter to take hold.

Or so I have been led to believe.  I'm certainly no expert on sour beers.  Now making vinegar from cider, on the other hand.......

467
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating wort
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:39:15 AM »
I think aeration matters.  But how much, don't know.  More experiments are needed.

468
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating wort
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:33:17 AM »
My method of aeration is to pour the wort into the carboy.   :o

469
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating wort
« on: August 18, 2016, 06:46:10 AM »
Maybe the OP is commercial?

470
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating wort
« on: August 18, 2016, 05:14:56 AM »
Neat idea.  In theory it should be possible and effective if you can get the holes of the right size.  However, several concerns/problems:

A) Hoses are plastic and also have pretty thick walls, which might tend to seal up on you.  Wort will tend to soak up into these capillaries, dry up and thus clog them all up.  And along with this...

B) Not sure how in the hell you'd sanitize this hose!  So instead of preventing contamination, you could be CAUSING it.

C) Not sure that the wet cotton balls are really doing much for you besides being a major PITA.

D) Not sure how you'll get the holes of the right size.  Plus you might need 100 holes to get this right, I don't know.


471
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question on storing beer
« on: August 18, 2016, 04:59:22 AM »
"They" will say that bottle caps allow oxygen ingress via osmosis.

Personally, I doubt that in most cases osmosis would allow so much oxygen ingress that it would cause appreciable oxidation in a span of a few months at proper storage conditions.  I believe most oxidation occurs due to the original oxygen present in the beer and in the fill space above it.  Osmosis seems a secondary effect that should take many years to have a huge effect.  Also... many (most? all?) brewers are using oxygen absorbing caps these days.  If those caps don't work, then well that kind of sucks and is false advertising, eh?

Besides..... canned beer goes stale as well.  Leave it sit for a couple years and I can guarantee that yes it does.  And there's no osmosis happening there.

In summary, I think oxidation occurs over long periods of time regardless of whether it's bottled or packaged in some other manner.

One thing I just thought of: Bottlers who are concerned about oxidation should probably be purging every bottle with CO2 prior to fill.  This is easy for keggers who have a CO2 tank.  Not so easy for bottlers but it could be done, and should if you want maximum storage life, say greater than 6 months like I indicated previously.

Personally, to some extent I kind of like the taste of oxidized beer anyway.  Gives it a little something.  The guys in the old days hundreds of years ago agreed with this as well, purposely blending new beer with stale beer to make it taste the way they liked.  They'd go 50/50 or 70/30 or whatever to give it that little something that they enjoyed.  I don't mind a little oxidation, especially in a stronger beer but even in a low gravity beer it's not so off-putting that I won't drink it.  So there's that too.  Taste is in the eye of the beholder like anything else.

472
All Grain Brewing / Re: kolsch grain bill
« on: August 17, 2016, 12:57:01 PM »
I would happily consume any and all of the above recipes.

473
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question on storing beer
« on: August 17, 2016, 10:43:04 AM »
I don't think it matters all that much unless you have poor sanitization practices or known contamination issues, and as long as you always keep the temperature below 70 F as you plan to do anyway.  Temperature swings happen all the time in a distributor setting.  You wouldn't want to store the beer above that point for a significant amount of time as it will stale faster.  But if your average temp will be much lower than 70 F, you're still prolonging the life of your beer.  The alternative of course is to just drink it all within like 6 months of brewing, then you really don't need to worry.

474
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 17, 2016, 10:27:56 AM »
I am BJCP and brutal about my own stuff.

Oh boy, I hear ya, man.  I beat myself up pretty bad about approximately 50% of the beers I make, "dang it, I should have done this or that, what was I thinking".  Then the other 50% of the time I'm elated just because it turned out halfway decent.  :)

475
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 17, 2016, 09:37:12 AM »
What about a lager...say, a 6 gal. batch of German pils with one packette of W34/70?  Would you (should I):
- sprinkle on top?
- rehydrate and cool to 50*-54*?
- make a SNS starter and cool to 50*-54*?

For that I might actually rehydrate or at least activate the yeast to make sure it's lively.  But if it were only 3 or 4 gallons, I'd probably just sprinkle on top and call it good.

476
All Grain Brewing / Re: Beer recipe that ferments at room temp
« on: August 17, 2016, 05:31:23 AM »
Look for a Saison recipe.  Let the yeast work all the way up into the 80's
I saw a few of thoes.. Might just try one. Whats the taste like compared to store bought beer?

It's fantastic.  I recommend the dry yeast called Belle Saison.  It takes at least 3 weeks to ferment but it's wonderful.

477
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 16, 2016, 01:12:41 PM »
Weren't you aware of that already?  And I assume he didn't specify age of liquid yeast and was assuming 100% viability for it?

No, I wasn't aware.  Jamil also didn't state his assumptions, so we can only assume what he assumed.  In context I think it was pretty clear what he was saying -- there's generally a lot more viable yeast in a dry pack.  Not to mention, the dry packs remain mostly viable for YEARS in the fridge instead of just 8-10 months.

478
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 16, 2016, 01:06:37 PM »
Awesome -- thanks Priceless.

I think I'll be pitching less dry yeast from here on out.  Rehydration....... bah!  I guess I could, if I really wanted to save some money.  However it's already not so easy estimating the difference between 1/12 to 1/6 of a packet of yeast for my little 1.7-gallon batches anyway!   ;D

479
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 16, 2016, 08:54:51 AM »
Validation!  I heard Jamil say on the following podcast at about the 59-minute mark that the standard 11-gram dry yeast packets contain about 225% as much yeast as a standard vial of liquid yeast.  Whammo!  I mean, he would know, right?  He wrote the book on Yeast?!

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/membersarchive/bws_2016_07_05_diacetyldryyeastQs.mp3

480
If you see this on every batch, it might be a combination of crush inconsistency, and a dead space issue.  You're batch sparging?  After both the first and the second runnings, you need to tilt your cooler to get every last drop possible out of it.  If you don't, you're leaving a lot of sugar in the mash tun.

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