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Messages - dmtaylor

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556
Other Fermentables / Re: Bottling Carbing cider
« on: March 16, 2016, 11:28:59 AM »
I could definitely dial it back.  I could do 2 volumes.  I am just super nervous about exploding bottles.  It's been in secondary for 4 months after 1 month in primary.  I assume it's finished.

Good.  After that much time it will be safe to bottle with priming sugar.  3 volumes is fine but personally I'd only do like 2.5.  However the yeast is long gone so you will want to add a sprinkle of fresh yeast along with the priming sugar.  Cheers!!

P.S.  Also be aware that it can take a long time for cider to carbonate.  It's not right away in 2 weeks like beer usually.  Usually takes more like 2-3 months in my experience.  I don't know why, it just does.

557
Kegging and Bottling / Re: May Have Overcarbed my Dubbel
« on: March 16, 2016, 04:51:58 AM »
I never carbonate more than 2.7 volumes, ever.  It's just not worth the risk of gushers or explosions, and who wants a beer that pours >50% foam?!

558
Other Fermentables / Re: Cider Primary fermentation time
« on: March 15, 2016, 07:45:32 PM »
Not really.  Drink it flat, like a real man.   ;D

559
Other Fermentables / Re: Cider Primary fermentation time
« on: March 15, 2016, 05:28:21 PM »
I recommend transferring it after the first 7-10 days to slow down the fermentation.  I usually transfer mine several times, every 7-10 days for a whole month.  This helps the cider from going too dry.  Otherwise it turns out more like champagne.  I also ferment cool, around 55-60 F, for the same reason.  I also usually add gelatin when specific gravity hits 1.010-1.015 to again prevent dryness, then refrigerate after that to finish.  Patience is key with ciders.  Give it a good 6 weeks to finish, or longer if you can stand it.  Patience will be rewarded.

560
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 14, 2016, 05:18:08 AM »
Don't be ashamed, that's why every engineer needs a good technician to watch out for them.  8)

(I had to take that one, it was handed to me.)

Techs are indeed a tremendous help.  Maybe I should have been a tech for all the fun they've allowed me to have in my job.  My little brother was smart and went the tech route.  Can be more fun for almost the same pay, or maybe even more if they pay you hourly & double-time on weekends & holidays like my buddies here.  :)

561
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mr Malty
« on: March 13, 2016, 12:36:17 PM »
Uh-oh... maybe in his new profession he's unable to pay the bills?  ;)

I'm sure at least a hundred people if not 300 will let him know right away that the site is down and he'll get it up again soon.

562
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 13, 2016, 12:33:23 PM »
Typical mash efficiency for no sparge mash tun (as opposed to no sparge biab) is in the 60-65% for a 1.060 brew at a common batch sparge + 1 gal/hr boil off rate. Other typical values can be found in http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/methods/Efficiency/

You may be right.  My estimate of 55-60% was a swag.  If you have real data showing the range is a little better than my swag, I should probably believe it.

Priceless, I reviewed your website...... and hot dang!  You've got a wealth of excellent information on there and I agree with at least 95% of it... in fact I can't really point out anything I wouldn't agree with.  It's great.  Well done.

563
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What styles of beer age best?
« on: March 12, 2016, 06:33:23 AM »
I saw another post on here that sparked my interest in aging beer and giving as gifts for Christmas, birthdays and other occasions. What styles of beer age well for +1 year besides the usual RIS and Barleywines?

I would think wee heavy and strong Belgian ales like quads would age well.

Belgians do age well, but they tend to lose a lot of their unique fruity and phenolic Belgianiness over time.  End up tasting more like an aged barleywine after many years in my experience.  But still great.

There's a reason RIS and barleywine, and Biere de Garde, and maybe Double IPAs or similar, are noted as the best styles for aging -- it's because it's true.  Other beers don't age well at all.  And I would know.  I'm the guy with 10 cases of beer in the cellar that's several years old.  I end up dumping some of it, not all but a few, because *shock* it all does go bad over time.

The other "style" that tends to age well are the Brett and sour beers, IF you're into that kind of stuff at all.  The more alcohol, the longer it will last.  And the alcohol thing holds true for most styles.

564
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 07:01:16 PM »
Electrical Design Engineer here.

I never know what to tell people.  I'm in Design Eng as well, in the Configuration Management group.  We're essentially the scummy janitors of stuff no one else in Engineering wants to do.  They also call me the paint guy.  I've been the Coatings Engineer for 17 years.  I also know a bit about EQ, and I'm also a CAPCO / Corrective Action nerd.  Yeah, I pretty much do everything that no one else wants to do.  But anyway, we digress.

565
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 04:53:05 PM »
Your a nuke! Me too. I've got an outage coming up as well.

Hey, another one!  It's surprising how a disproportionate number of nuclear workers are into homebrewing.  Engineers and IT guys especially.  Don't know why, just seems true the world over, not just here but everywhere.

566
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 03:27:17 PM »
2 kids and a full time job makes you try to save time where you can!

Try 3 kids and 60-hour weeks!  I've got that going for the next month or so.  Unfortunately, enriched uranium-235 only has a useful life of a few years, after which we just set it in a pool or in a bunker outside to cool the rest of the way over the next 10,000 years.   ;D

567
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 03:02:06 PM »
If I do a 30 minute vigorous boil instead, my batch sparge water drops low enough that I would probably just add it to mash-out.  What efficiency drop would I expect from 'no sparge' and from short boil?

With a low gravity beer in the 1.036-1.038ish range I'm planning on 2.25-2.5 qts./lb. which is way thinner than the 1.25-1.5 qts./lb. I normally do.  I've read that once a mash gets 'too thin' the required mash time goes up; is a 40minute mash possible at 2.5 qts./lb.?

There has been quite a few posts on shortening brewing steps lately that really has me desiring shortening what I can.  Especially since moving to these hop-steeps long ago which have great results, but also add time.  Especially when brewing in the evening and finding myself pitching at midnight or later sometimes.

No-sparge brewing will reduce your efficiency substantially.  I would say it's down to about 55% for a regular strength beer, and maybe a bit better around 60-65% for a small beer around 1.038.

2.5 qts/lb is no big deal at all.  You'll still get sufficient conversion, efficiency & attenuation, mashing at that ratio for just 40 minutes in my experience.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one anymore interested in saving time.  Cheers!

568
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 02:58:18 PM »
Dave:

I did not do the 40 minute mash this past weekend and defaulted to 60.

Next go round I am committing to 45 minute mash and 25 minute vigorous boil.

Sweet.  I bet it turns out great.  Just consider knocking ~5% efficiency off from whatever you normally get, to ensure you hit your OG target due to sparging less to get your required pre-boil volume, i.e., collecting less sugars from the malts.

569
Ingredients / Re: When should I add lactose...
« on: March 11, 2016, 02:53:00 PM »
The OP refers to a cream stout not a cream ale.

This thread was resurrected from four years ago.  The highjacker said only "cream ale".  My more recent response was to him, not to the OP.

570
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Full Boil Impact
« on: March 11, 2016, 01:30:59 PM »
"The kettle boil is also a source of wort and beer color, and again the Maillard reaction is responsible because heat drives the reaction between sugars and amino acids.  The effect is, however, rather small in modern short-time boils."

I'm not sure what the authors consider to be a modern, short-time boil.

In the old days (100 years ago or more) it was common to boil for 2 hours or longer.  The current standard of 60 minutes was established in more modern times.  And I think the standard will become even shorter in the next 5-10 years when people realize they don't need to waste so much time and energy by defaulting to 60 or 90 (for pilsner malt beers).

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