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Messages - dmtaylor

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601
All Grain Brewing / Re: Changing step mash to single
« on: May 06, 2014, 05:03:18 PM »
Yep, I would say so.

602
Ingredients / Re: The latest experiment
« on: May 06, 2014, 02:47:21 PM »
Of course I couldn't not post my 2 cents.  Nice work, Denny, nice work.  I love experiments.

603
All Grain Brewing / Re: What is going on with my Kolsch??
« on: May 06, 2014, 12:58:18 PM »
Patience is required with a kolsch, especially if you used the 2565 yeast.  My standard practice would be 4-5 weeks in primary, minimum, with that yeast.  WLP029 finishes faster, maybe 2.5-3 weeks.  Patience.  If it ain't done fermenting, then racking to secondary is truly the WORST thing you could do.  Let it do its thing for as long as it takes.  Then you can think about racking or adding gelatin or whatever you want to do to clean it up.

Swirling the fermenter often will keep the yeast active longer and help them to finish before they all settle down for a nap.  Warming things up a few degrees will also help keep them awake and help them finish.

I'm one of those who doesn't secondary hardly at all anymore.  I've had my ESB in primary for like 5 weeks now.  Tastes great, but it's cloudy for some reason.  Just added gelatin a few days ago and now it's clear as a bell.  The 2565 would benefit from the same treatment.  WLP029 will clear up on its own.

604
All Grain Brewing / Re: Changing step mash to single
« on: May 06, 2014, 12:45:31 PM »
Melanoidin malt can cause a beer to become sickly sweet, with a certain cherry-like caramel maltiness that is not otherwise found in high amounts in beers without it.  Some people might like this.  Me, not so much -- I'm more traditional.  I like my beer to taste like beer, not like melanoidin malt.  Personal preference.  Some people like Leinie's Berry Weiss, too.

605
All Grain Brewing / Re: Changing step mash to single
« on: May 06, 2014, 04:28:07 AM »
Decoction is not necessary.  I would mash at 150 F for 45 to 60 minutes.  60 minutes is plenty.  90 minutes is completely unnecessary unless you like really long brew days.

I wouldn't touch the melanoidin, which can get nasty if too much is used.

606
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: alcoholic taste?
« on: May 03, 2014, 05:59:08 AM »
I don't rehydrate US-05 and have never had any issues. I just aerate really well, pitch the yeast, let sit for a few, and give it a good stir to mix it evenly. I realize that my process may be bad but it has worked well up to this point for me.

+100.  I don't rehydrate.  I too am a small batch brewer, so I might just pitch a higher proportion of the packet to compensate for dead yeast.  Always see signs of fermentation within 24 hours pitching it dry.  I love dry yeast.  The easiest way to do something is always what I do as long as it always produces excellent results... and this does.

607
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: alcoholic taste?
« on: May 01, 2014, 08:14:25 AM »
In a beer looking like this...

OG 1.070
FG 1.011
7.8% abv

...you're very likely to taste some alcohol.

It should mellow a bit with age.  Fermentation temperatures are also a factor.  Cooler fermentations (low 60s) will generally produce less fusel alcohols than higher temperatures (upper 60s, 70s, etc.).

608
Beer Travel / Re: St. Louis this weekend
« on: April 30, 2014, 05:02:44 AM »
Schlafly's is very good.  It's been a few years, but I liked Square One a lot as well, and they're also a distillery, so there's that.

If you ever bring kids, the City Museum is an absolute MUST-SEE.  It's the museum that's really not a museum at all... look it up.  Fun for all ages, but kids especially.  I don't fit into some of the tighter spaces anymore....

609
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Digestibility
« on: April 30, 2014, 04:55:59 AM »
It's about dryness and high attenuation.  Low mash temperature (148 F) and a little sugar addition can help.  However, many/most of the Belgian yeasts are high attenuators anyway.  So to the American palate, the low mash temperature and sugar are possibly optional, unless you like your beers quite dry indeed.  Part of it is personal preference.  The Belgians just really don't like sweetish low attenuated beers, in general, so they take measures to avoid this.  The American palate probably doesn't care nearly as much.

610
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sugar & Final Gravity reduction
« on: April 26, 2014, 05:05:01 AM »
If you SUBSTITUTE malt for sugar, then final gravity will decrease.  This is because you've gone from something 65-75% fermentable to 100% fermentable.

But if you were to ADD sugar to an existing recipe, the result goes more like this:

Adding sugar increases the original gravity, but the final gravity will most likely stay the same, or perhaps will decrease by like 1-2 points, maybe, but not that anyone would really notice.  For example:

You have a 1.060 original gravity beer, with an expected final gravity of 1.015.  If you ADD a pound of sugar, your original gravity might go up to 1.070, something like that, while your final gravity stays the same or maybe goes to 1.014.

The result is... more alcohol, with zero impact on the flavor except the greater alcohol.  You've gone from a 6% ABV beer to a 7% ABV beer.  The body and mouthfeel might feel slightly thinner but most likely won't be impacted very much at all.

611
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sulfur Smell from 1 Month Old Beer
« on: April 25, 2014, 02:11:31 PM »
I've gotten it from dates... and wild yeast.  The ancient Sumerian beer.  The sulfur disappeared in a few weeks though.

612
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sulfur Smell from 1 Month Old Beer
« on: April 25, 2014, 11:13:26 AM »
Sulfur always disappears with age.  It will probably be gone in another week or two, although sometimes it takes a little longer.  It might be coming from the raisins, possibly.  Regardless, just needs a little more age.

613
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Estimating color
« on: April 22, 2014, 05:30:09 PM »
As a point of reference, the logo for AHA that you see at the top of your screen is roughly 7.8 SRM.  At least on my monitor.  10 SRM is in "light orange to orange" territory, IMHO.  Perhaps "light copper" but it's pretty light for copper.

I am not familiar with the Great Western malts but it's possible they might be darker than average.  Other variables to consider might include: the age of your malts, the vigor of your boil, whether you are doing a concentrated boil, the thickness and shape of the glassware you are using to measure color... along with this, of course your beer will always look a LOT darker in the fermentation bucket or carboy than it does in your glass, so consider whether this is also a factor?  In the other direction, the presence of any yeast haze in your beer will tend to lighten the color of the beer until it settles out.  Hops, of course, will provide a bit of a green tint temporarily.  Lots of variables to think about.

614
I set my fermenter on top of the refrigerator or the computer desk, whichever is warmer.  Cheap 'n' easy.

615
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency survey
« on: April 16, 2014, 07:16:43 AM »
It's interesting to see how identical threads on AHA vs. Northern Brewer have taken quite different paths.

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=121820&p=1064630#p1064630

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