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Messages - dmtaylor

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Ingredients / Re: Hop Shots
« on: November 10, 2014, 07:20:17 PM »
I didn't freeze mine for a couple years and recently used it and it turned out fine.  I think it keeps for a really long time in its concentrated paste form.  One of its advantages perhaps.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter for dry lager yeast?
« on: November 10, 2014, 01:21:59 PM »
It's up to you.  Personally I'd just pitch about 2 packs per 5 gallons and call it good.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Protein Haze
« on: November 08, 2014, 06:02:36 PM »
Help me... help me... oh, no, no!  ;)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Protein Haze
« on: November 07, 2014, 07:30:54 PM »
Dry hopping can cause haze as well.  I'm not totally sure why this happens but if memory serves I think it might be from tannins.  So in this case, you might try the Polyclar, which like I said before, might not even work anyway.  If you can add your hops in the last couple minutes of the boil or at flameout instead of dry hopping, then you might be able to prevent this haze.  If I'm right.  Which I might not be.  But maybe I am.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Protein Haze
« on: November 07, 2014, 07:05:56 PM »
I don't know if I've experienced it, but I know a couple ways you can prevent it.

Irish moss added in the last 15 minutes of the boil will help prevent it.  Is Irish moss completely effective?  I have my doubts.  But it should help a lot, at least in theory.

If you brew all-grain, then a brief protein rest at 122 F for about 5 minutes will more certainly prevent protein haze, however this also comes at the expense of reduced body and head retention in the final beer, so limit it to 5 minutes or less to minimize this impact.  In as little as 10 minutes at 122 F, your head and body will be poor in my experience, making for a very watery and lifeless beer, so don't figure "more is better" because it's not.

Also keep in mind that there are other sources of haze, including yeast, tannin, contamination, pectin, etc.

Gelatin will knock out yeast and contamination but not protein or tannin.

If memory serves, the tannins can react with phenols to form a haze that in theory can be reduced using Polyclar which is essentially a powdered plastic.  Again, personally I have my doubts whether this does anything, as it hasn't helped in cases where nothing else worked and I was pretty sure I had this kind of haze.  But of course you're welcome to try it if the other stuff doesn't help.

I'm not really an expert on water chemistry but I'll bet it can have a huge effect on haze if there is too much or too little mineral content.  Someone else will probably chime in about this.

In fruit beers and ciders, pectin haze can be minimized through use of pectic enzyme added to the fruit before the fruit is added to the beer or cider.  If you don't treat the fruit and the pectin sets in, I don't know if it's possible to remove it -- I'm not saying that you can or cannot, I'm just saying that I personally truly do not know if it is possible or how to do it.  Again, someone else out there knows more than I do.

Beer Recipes / Re: IBU Calculations
« on: November 07, 2014, 06:50:01 PM »
The following is a very close estimation method that very closely emulates the results you would get from Tinseth.  I like to call this “the Taylor formula”.  Give it a try and see how close you get to Tinseth.  These rules are designed for pellet hops used in 5 gallons final boil volume, 60-minute boil, @ approximately 1.060 OG.

3.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from bittering hops added @ about 60 minutes left in the boil
1.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from flavor additions @ 10-15 minutes
0.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from aroma @ 5 minutes

Add all these together, and then add another +1.5 to the final total to get the final grand total IBUs.

For higher gravity worts (e.g., >1.075), the primary factors are reduced somewhat to about 3.0, 1.3, and 0.6 (stays same).  For low gravity worts (e.g., <1.045), the factors are increased to around 4.0, 1.9, and 0.6 (this third factor always stays same). 

For different batch volumes (V) other than 5 gallons, you need to multiply the result by 5/V.  If you use whole hop cones, then multiply your final result by 0.9 (a.k.a., 90%).

Ingredients / Re: crystal or caramel
« on: November 07, 2014, 05:18:42 PM »
Crystal and caramel malts are very slightly different but generally interchangeable.  If you can ever find a store that sells more than one brand of them (good luck) then just chew up a couple of kernels each and figure out which one you'd rather brew with, as they won't taste exactly the same and you might like one better than the other.  But beyond that... I guess personally I don't really care about the scientific process differences in making them.  Taste is all that really matters.  No?


Beer Recipes / Re: IBU Calculations
« on: November 07, 2014, 05:10:54 PM »
I calculate approximately 60 IBUs via Tinseth.  The Rager formula is way goofy and not nearly as accurate.  No formula is perfect, but Tinseth comes closest.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Extra IBU's from Boil to Hop Stand?
« on: November 06, 2014, 04:21:47 PM »
I imagine isomerization happens at 170 F at about a quarter of the rate of boiling.  This is based on the old engineer's rule of thumb that reaction rates double for every 20 F.  So 170 + 20 + 20 = 210, so you've halved the reaction rate twice, for 1/4 the isomerization.  Just a rule of thumb kind of reasoning.  As an example, if you boil X amount of hops for 20 minutes and get 20 IBUs, you can expect to extract roughly 5 IBUs from a 20-minute stand at 170 F.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Protein Rest
« on: November 05, 2014, 05:49:45 PM »
My experience is that protein rests are a BAD thing.  They kill the body and head retention, leaving your beer watery and lifeless.  Skip it.  Or if you do try it, limit the rest to like 5 minutes to prevent too much adverse effect.

Damned protein rest discussions never die.....

For me, it's usually product selection. I want to be able to choose which maltster's version of a specific malt I want, a full selection of both White Labs and Wyeast (and maybe some of the newer labs as well), plus some mead/wine/cheesemaking supplies as well. Basically I want to get all the ingredients I'm looking for from one supplier in one order.

I selected Prices, but after seeing this comment about selection, this is the real clincher for me.  This is the reason I don't often shop at my LHBS, because they only have about 75% of the ingredients I need, so rather than trek there and find that they don't have everything I need, I often/usually just order everything online from the lowest bidder.  Online homebrew supply stores are EXTREMELY competitive, so the best way for a specific company to win over a lot of business is to offer the lowest prices and great creative perks like free shipping, frequent sales, etc.  Service and fast shipping are pretty consistent among most all stores, so for me it really comes down to two things: selection and bottom line price.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: diacetyl in a lite american lager
« on: November 05, 2014, 08:02:13 AM »
I don't mind a slight hint of diacetyl in some beer styles, as long as it is quite slight, but this is a matter of personal preference.  I know a lot of people HATE it with a passion, and that's their choice.  I'm about as sensitive to it as many good judges are (I'm Certified) so I don't think I'm missing it either, but of course there's always somebody else out there more sensitive and more picky than I am.  So yeah, it's possible I'm not perfect.  However I do try to be.

Beer Recipes / Re: kottbusser
« on: November 05, 2014, 07:49:57 AM »
I'm going to brew one soon as well based on the recent article.  Looks like a very interesting style.  Goschman, your recipe looks good, although I'd have a slight concern that indeed any more than 0.5% molasses might be too much.  But maybe try the 1% anyway and see how it turns out?  This is a style also where I can see wanting to add a LOT more honey to it... like, would it be too far out of style to use 25% honey??  I might like to try that sometime.  Also, a good style to play with malted oats instead of flaked and see what that brings to the party.  Just thinking out loud.

Beer Recipes / Re: Improving the malt flavor of an IPA
« on: November 05, 2014, 05:45:35 AM »
You could also try replacing your base malt with Maris Otter, or replace a huge percentage of it with Vienna or red wheat malt.  That would add lots of flavor.  Sometimes the solution is not addition of specialty malts but rather replacement of base malt with another base malt.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Suppliers
« on: November 04, 2014, 06:43:07 PM »
I always get excellent service from the Grape and Granary in Ohio, in addition to Northern Brewer, MoreBeer, and my LHBS the Grape Grain & Bean.  My purchases are pretty even between all of them so I don't feel too horrible about not always shopping local, etc. -- why not support them all! -- not to mention that I drive past Northern Brewer in Milwaukee a couple times a year so in a way they could be considered my LHBS as well.

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