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Messages - dmtaylor

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661
Ingredients / Re: Bananas
« on: April 13, 2017, 04:35:06 PM »
I haven't done it, but I think adding about a dozen overripe black bananas (per 5 gallons) late in the fermentation would work wonders for real banana flavor.

I also have a suggestion for peanut butter flavor -- toasted Maris Otter.  Put some Maris Otter in a 350 F oven for 15 minutes.  You'll get a ton of nutty flavor in the final beer.

I do like the hefeweizen yeast idea too.  Ferment warm around 70 F for maximum banana.  With a big pitch and warm temps, you shouldn't get much clove.  WLP300 *should* be fine for this although I'm still experimenting with weizen yeasts myself so I can't say for sure.  Wyeast 3068 is definitely known for being a banana bomb.

662
Ingredients / Re: Cascade and Chinook Terroir
« on: April 13, 2017, 02:17:10 PM »
My homegrown Cascades in Wisconsin have less citrus punch, but a huge peppery spiciness.  Very nice IMO but not really a basis for a super IPA except for bittering.  Average alpha acid in my tasting experience is about 6.2% or so, which is about in line with what most would expect -- I had no trouble getting maximum IBUs in my last DIPA using a bittering addition with this estimate.

663
Ah... homebrewing.  So easy a caveman can do it.  Or, totally not.

664
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How much to under pitch?
« on: April 12, 2017, 02:24:43 PM »
I've found that pitching a single smack pack a few weeks old is a good under pitch. Don't make a large starter for a Hefeweizen, it turns out quite bland.

It's odd, but I don't make a starter, don't particularly oxygenate, and hold the fermentation at 62 and I've had good results.

I swear, my best hefs were the ones I made like the above in like 1999 when I didn't know how to brew at all.

I did a multi-step mash as well acid, protein, beta, alpha.

That's done a lot.  However, I'm super skeptical as to whether the extra effort does a dang thing to improve the beer one iota.

665
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How much to under pitch?
« on: April 12, 2017, 11:45:09 AM »
I like the taste of yeast poop.

666
Join a club.  Don't know if there's a club?  Ask a worker at your local homebrew shop.  Don't have one of those?  Um......... read some books and watch YouTube?!

Cheers and good luck!

667
I'll add another 2 cents:

The nice thing about hydrogen sulfide is that it is volatile, and given a few weeks in a fermenter, it will fly away to undetectable levels, most of the time.

668
Mr Bamforths comments were quite simpler than yours on the subject of meta in the mash- “Sulfites in the mash are to be avoided, yeast will reduce it to sulfide and you will end up with an egg-y aroma in your beer.”

Do you feel he is incorrect about this?

Yes, I feel he is incorrect about this, if that is his actual direct quote (although, a little context can go a long way).  The statement is too simplistic, and I feel it's been taken out of context.

If sulfites in the mash directly lead to hydrogren sulfide in the beer then anyone/everyone who uses campden for chlorine/-amine removal would experience this, and there are A LOT of people using campden for chlorine/-amines removal in their strike water moments before mashing in.

Yeah, but only in fairy-dust sprinkle amounts -- 1/4 tablet per 5 gallons is friggin NUTHIN', and probably boils off to a great extent during the boil.  In greater amounts, I dunno.

669
Gelatin, cold, and extreme laziness can stall a fermentation permanently and on purpose, if you want.  I do this with my ciders.  However, be warned: it does require extreme laziness.  I mean to say, patience.  Patience.

On the other hand, results are difficult to predict.  Denny's theory is right more than half the time.  The other half of the time, you do run some risk of oxidation, lack of carbonation, possible contamination or other calamities, unless doing force carbonation.

Then there is the sorbate and sulfite option.  Don't do that, at least not with beer.  I currently have an IPA with zero carbonation because of that huge blunder.  Call it an "experiment".  Well it worked, if you enjoy flat beer.  It was bottled and primed like "normal" except for whatever reason, I added sorbate.  After a month, it's clear the yeast is pretty much dead, maybe just the slightest petillance, and huge diacetyl bomb.  Oops.  Won't be making that mistake a second time.

670
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How much to under pitch?
« on: April 11, 2017, 08:30:10 PM »
Now what happens if we skip cold side aeration/oxygenation -- boil vigorously, then very gently rack the wort into the fermenter, and pitch on top of that.  I'm not saying this is a good idea, I'm just saying I don't know what it does.  And most of us probably don't.  :)

671
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How much to under pitch?
« on: April 11, 2017, 05:58:11 PM »
I can't say I've used 3068 yet.  However, assuming it's much like any other hefeweizen yeast, I'd ferment at 70 F, and that way you'll get your banana.  And with an underpitch, maybe even more.  For a serious underpitch, I'd use 1/4 the mrmalty.com recommended amount.  So when he says you need like 2.5 liters for 5 gallons, screw it and just pitch a fully (or even just half?) swollen smackpack without any starter and it should turn out to your liking.

So far I'm a believer in underpitching as a viable means of awesomeness in hefs and Belgians.  However, my experiments are yet to be run this summer in this regard.  I'm sure I'll be surprised by something along the way.  So, proceed, with caution.

672
My 2 cents:

As always, more experiments are needed.

And, I will let someone else run them.

Cheers.

674
My LHBS provides a 10% discount to homebrew club members, and will match online prices and pony up the dollars for shipping if you want something he doesn't have in stock, but of course then you do have to run to the store to pick it up, not direct-ship to your house.  So it's definitely cheaper with the LHBS given there's no shipping plus the discount.  He doesn't have to do all that, but it's just the kind of guy he is.  You can also order online from him like any of the other big boys, with competitive pricing, but then of course I'd assume you have to pay your own shipping to your house.  http://www.grapegrainandbean.com/

Disclaimer: I am not being compensated for this advertisement, other than that nice discount.  :)

675
All Grain Brewing / Re: Great Western vs Briess vs Rahr
« on: April 07, 2017, 10:34:47 AM »
Yes.  Great Western for the win.  Even though Briess is local to me, I have not been impressed by their malts compared to GW.  I need to taste more Rahr to know for sure but I think it's in between.

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