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Messages - dmtaylor

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Decoction
« on: March 11, 2015, 06:55:42 PM »
Skip the protein rest, it will only hurt your head and body.  Double meanings intended!

All Grain Brewing / Re: efficiency observation
« on: March 10, 2015, 01:28:18 PM »
Crush till you're scared.  Then when you achieve >90% efficiency and your resulting beer tastes thin and watery and lifeless, you'll open the gap on your mill, maybe even more than once, to get back down to around 80% for a better balance of good efficiency vs. mouthfeel.


Ingredients / Re: Pellets vs whole hops
« on: March 10, 2015, 06:16:33 AM »
Lots of advantages to pellets as others have mentioned.  I too only use whole hops when I'm using my homegrowns, which are great but more of a pain to deal with.  If I could produce my own pellets at home, I would.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: bock under attenuated
« on: March 10, 2015, 04:51:01 AM »
There's a combination of several things going on here.

1) Jamil and John Palmer aren't perfect.  They screwed up.

2) Two pounds of CaraMunich is kind of a lot for an extract beer.

3) Like Hoosier said, extracts often don't ferment down very well.  A lot of times the pilsner extract will ferment out fine, but those specialty extracts such as the Munich extract might not.

4) The yeast you used is only capable of about 73-75% attenuation, so the best attenuation you probably could have expected is about 1.023 or maybe 1.022 at best.

I would have jacked up the partial-mash pilsner malt, added 1-1.5 lb table sugar in place of some extract, and used distilled water (you didn't specify your water).  All of these things would have guaranteed a lower FG as well as a better tasting beer.  See all my generic guidance for extract brewing here, it might help you out for next time:

Beer Recipes / Re: Boston Lager Receipe
« on: March 08, 2015, 03:56:43 PM »
I still like Boston Lager, too. Good beer to have a few of.

Indeed.  Cheers!   8)

Beer Recipes / Re: Boston Lager Receipe
« on: March 08, 2015, 03:41:37 PM »
I have tried a couple of times to clone this beer and missed the mark, although that was many years ago.  The notes I have now say to aim for 30 IBUs (not 60 -- sorry flbrewer, 60 is WAY too many, must be a typo!!) and to definitely use Wyeast 2206.  I think yeast is the key to the whole thing here.  In the past I used the wrong yeast, but now based on my great experiences with 2206, I think that truly is the key factor.  Beyond the IBU thing, flbrewer is right, use a bit of Crystal 60 and a blend of Hallertauer and Tettnanger all the way through, and 2206, and you should get real close.  Ferment cool in the upper 40s.  If you can't ferment cold then try Wyeast 1007 instead, should get you really close.

Now I want to try brewing this again!!  SABL is one of my all time favorite beers.  I must confess, I've mutated into a huge beer snob in the past couple years... but I still always love my SABL.  It just really is THAT good!!  And to those who don't agree, just admit that you're wrong, and we'll all get along fine!!  ;)

Beer Travel / Re: Cincinnati Bockfest!
« on: March 08, 2015, 03:34:29 PM »
I wish I lived closer... I love Moerlein!  Fantastic lagers.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: bock under attenuated
« on: March 08, 2015, 12:54:13 PM »
Might be the yeast's fault.  What yeast did you use?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starter for 1 Gallon Batch?
« on: March 03, 2015, 10:44:52 AM »
What about sub 5 gallon batches? Using WLP001 on a 3 gallon pale ale. Starter?

Risky.  3 gallons is not far from 5 gallon, and with liquid yeast you never know for sure how good the storage was between manufacturer and your own refrigerator.  I'd make a starter for 3 gallons, even if only one liter.  Only exception might be for hefeweizen where underpitching is arguably better than the standard pitch rate anyway.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash pH
« on: February 28, 2015, 04:48:51 AM »
A tablespoon of each wouldn't kill any brew starting with soft water and would certainly fix the pH issue.  If your water already has some minerals then use less.

Beer Recipes / Re: figs & honey in porter
« on: February 27, 2015, 08:15:32 AM »
I bet it will taste good.  Yes, fermentation will take off again even after lagering, and you'll need to give it sufficient time to finish (like another 2-3 weeks).  You'll want to use at least a pound of fruit per gallon, and 2 pounds per gallon would be even better.  So if you are limited in the amount of fruit that you have, then you are limited in how many gallons of this you can make.

Best of luck.  I think this will taste very good.

Lots of very hot water.  I usually rinse my beer glasses several times in the sink with hot water immediately after use.  Then just prior to use, I rinse in the sink again a couple of times, this time with cool water.  Unless there's something sticky that needs better cleaning, I usually just do the hot rinse and don't use soap.  At least for my own use.  If I were serving friends then I would pull clean glassware out of the cabinet and do the cool rinse thing immediately before serving to remove any possibility of soapy residue.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CaraPils and CaraAroma in Same Beer?
« on: February 25, 2015, 05:54:17 PM »
this is an old homebrewing myth


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What kind of beer would these make
« on: February 24, 2015, 02:00:41 PM »
I take S. boulardii supplements and they certainly do give me beer-flavored burps.  With all that other junk in there though, yeah, I bet you'd end up with a weird sour beer.  Might be worth a 1-gallon experiment!!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CaraPils and CaraAroma in Same Beer?
« on: February 24, 2015, 07:59:38 AM »
Carapils in general is nearly worthless in most recipes.  It becomes useful where you don't want appreciable caramel flavor but you want to guarantee good body/mouthfeel, like say in a graf or a blonde ale or something like that.  I don't know if it truly enhances foam and head retention like everyone says.  More experiments would be necessary.  I only use Carapils in my graf, that is all.

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