Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - dmtaylor

Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 ... 107
I think you're going to get some nasty headaches fermenting in the 80s.  Get it down to 70s if at all possible.  When I make saison, I start fermentation about 68 F and then raise to around 74 F maximum.  Not exactly sure what will happen in the 80s, but I'm fairly certain you will get a lot of fusels, even with a saison yeast.

Also I agree with troybinso, that's way too much friggin hops.  Tone it down a tad?  Citra is extremely overpowering anyway in very small amounts.  You won't be able to taste the saison or any mango additions behind that amount of Citra.  But, it's your beer.  I'm just suggesting that saison is a tasty style by itself, and moderation and balance are keys to good beer IMHO.  Do what you like, it's your beer.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Out Fiasco
« on: June 24, 2014, 06:12:17 AM »
Add cold water only 2 cups at a time.  A little cold water goes a long way as you noticed!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astingency Strategy
« on: June 23, 2014, 10:05:15 AM »
Just a thought here, but when I do lower gravity beers I usually go no sparge. you take a small efficiency hit but I think, and this is largely subjective, that it improves the malt character significantly. It should also protect you from any worry about asitringency because the entire volume of wort is benefiting from the full buffering capacity of the grain rather than that buffer being slowly reduced with the sparge.

I can't think of a reason why you couldn't do a no sparge on a continuous sparge system, just add the necesary extra volume of water at the end of your mash and/or mash thinner.

I couldn't agree more!  Good point, mort.

"everything is an IPA because it sells better that way"

Good golly, you've got that right.

However I did enjoy Gordon's comments about blue Romulan IPA and clear Zima IPA.  I've been saying for years that we need to develop a Purple IPA because, of course, changing the color of a beer makes it a new style.   ::)

Crush and volumes.  It's all about crush and volumes, 90% of the time.  Fix those two things first.  Don't trust your LHBS.  Buy your own mill, or crush it twice or even 3 times if you need to, to get the grains milled down towards flour, while keeping the husks more intact.  Volume measurements are very important as well.  If you aim for 5 gallons post-boil but end up with 5.5 gallons, your gravity measurements will be off by 10% or as much as 5 or 6 gravity points, which is a huge effect when efficiency calculations assume that you hit the proper volume spot-on.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astingency Strategy
« on: June 23, 2014, 08:08:04 AM »
Wow... okay... so your efficiency is around 85%, and you are controlling your pH around 5.3.  That sounds great.  And your detailed description of your equipment and process all seems reasonable and not too outrageous.

So... let me ask you this:  You say the judges are picking up slight astringency, but... do YOU detect any astringency in your beers?  The reason I ask this is because I think the term "astringency" is sorely misunderstood by >50% of all BJCP judges.  I say this, and I am a BJCP Certified rank judge myself, so I am not just ragging on the BJCP.  I love the BJCP.  But I think there are a lot of misconceptions about astringency by an unbelievably high percentage of judges.  I have even seen scoresheets from National rank judges who claimed they could detect "astringency" in the AROMA!  So..... take judges' opinions with grains of salt -- judges ain't perfect, myself included.

So my real question is:  Is this truly astringency, or is it something else entirely?  If you aren't getting astringency at all when you taste these beers, then question whether it might actually be imagined by these judges, which is entirely possible.  If you know and respect the judges, then perhaps they are right, in which case... I don't know what to tell you without tasting the beer for myself, which I am happy to do for you or for anyone.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astingency Strategy
« on: June 23, 2014, 07:09:17 AM »
You are throwing away way too much perfectly good sweet wort throughout your process -- dead space, boil kettle, trub & samples.  So yeah, you're having to sparge way too far to get your volumes.  Work on ways to minimize these losses.  There is zero advantage to leaving anything behind in the boil kettle besides big particles of hops.  If you are trying to rack off the crystal clear wort from the cloudy break material, stop because you're not gaining anything there.  No need to lose 3 quarts in the fermenter either unless you are hopping the beer very very heavily.  For a less hopped beer, you should only lose like 1.5 quarts or something around that.  Fix your mash tun to drain every last drop out.

Also look at mash pH.  pH is the predominant cause of tannins and astringency.  If your mash pH is above 5.6, you've got issues.  Treat with phosphoric acid or other acids, or use acidulated malt, if needed to get this down closer to 5.3 which is the optimum.

Ingredients / Re: How to best use jalapenos
« on: June 23, 2014, 06:55:53 AM »
My jalapeno porter has won a lot of awards.  I add them on bottling day.  Need about 9 jalapenos for a 5 gallon batch, plus or minus a couple depending how much heat you want.  Chop them all up, seeds and all.  Soak half the jalapenos in vodka for at least 5-6 hours, then add the vodka infusion to the beer.  With the other half, remove about 3 cups of your finished beer from the fermenter and boil the jalapenos for 5-10 minutes, cool, then add that liquid to your beer as well.  This provides the very best flavor AND aroma AND heat that I've come across.  And it's easy to taste the beer behind the peppers because you're doing it all on bottling day, AND you can add as little or as much of the liquids as you want until it tastes just right.  Sometimes I only add half the liquids, sometimes all, to get just the right level of heat and flavor.  Works like a charm.

Ingredients / Re: Best Styles for Strawberries
« on: June 23, 2014, 06:50:58 AM »
American amber ale or ESB seem to suit strawberries really well.

Ingredients / Re: Looking for info on magnesium additions.
« on: June 23, 2014, 06:47:00 AM »
Magnesium ion tastes horrible and is usually/easily overdone.  As such, I do not recommend its use unless you are absolutely sure of what you are doing.  Or if in doubt, cut the amount you think you should add in half or down to 1/3 as much.  Don't overdo it!  Tastes like friggin poison.  Taste some raw Epsom and see for yourself -- tastes the same in beer.

All Grain Brewing / Re: batch sparge process/volumes
« on: June 01, 2014, 08:11:29 PM »
If you're checking pH and it's from 5.1 to 5.3, I don't see where the problem is, unless you're only looking at the mash and not the sparge, but with batch sparge... gosh, I really don't see the problem.

That being said, my own process is very close to your second option:

"Strike with 4.25gal (about 1.8q/lb), add about 1gal of 190deg water to MT (top off/mashout?), then get about 4gal 1st runnings, and sparge with 4 gal to get total pre boil volume?"

I have always mashed at a ratio between 0.8-1.8 qt/lb, almost always add an infusion of some amount of boiling water to get half the boil volume out of the first runnings, then sparge with half the boil volume.  Works for me.

I suppose it's possible that by skipping the infusion and mashing and sparging "thin", you were extracting more tannins than I would.  But I really question this, if you know your mash pH was okay, and I would think the "okayness" of the pH would carry to the sparge when batch sparging.  But I could be wrong.  Maybe there is an impact, and the infusion really does protect against this.

I'm not going to say I've never experienced astringency in my own beers.  I have, a few times, but it is typically very slight.  Probably due to pH problems, also could be because I grind my grains so dang fine, down to flour.  But I can handle a slight astringency on rare occasion.  Nobody's perfect, 'cept maybe Jamil & Gordon & Denny, right?!  Maybe you just had one of those days.  There are a lot of variables, and we can't all be perfect all the time.  :)

I critique the critiques, and revise my own process and recipes as necessary, and take notes on their notes.  I type this stuff into my homebrewing software under the recipe for easy access in the future.  Then the scoresheets are stuffed away into a file drawer.  If I do a good job reviewing them right away, I shouldn't need to review them again later, but on rare occasion, I'll pull them out for one reason or another.  But for the most part, you should be able to live and learn, and toss.  It helps keeping a database or spreadsheet, that's the easiest.  I lose paper, and it's bulky and "old-school".  Yet I have eternal backups of all electronic data.  So that's the way I prefer to keep important notes.

Sure, I've done that before too.  Yes, it works.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: IBU Calculation
« on: May 29, 2014, 12:30:38 PM »
I calculate about 58 IBUs for 5 gallons, assuming the Cluster alpha at about 7%, Northern Brewer at 9%, and Centennial at 10.5%.  Here's how I swag it, for 5 gallons -- it's all about memorizing the magic factors at the beginning:

3.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from bittering additions @60 minutes
1.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from flavor additions @10-15 minutes
0.6 * oz * AA% = IBUs from aroma additions @5 minutes
Add all these together, then add about another +1.5 to the final total and round everything up.

So I get about 50.5 + 3 + 3 + 1.5 = 58 IBUs.  Nowhere near the 90s, like you said.

Yes, I've done this many times.  It works great.  These sugars do not dissolve easily and need to be boiled in a little water just like (or with!) priming sugar.

Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 ... 107