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Messages - dmtaylor

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Ingredients / Re: Piney Hops
« on: January 30, 2015, 11:36:53 AM »
Chinook, Simcoe, and Columbus are the big 3 (to me).

Yep, this. ^^^^^^^

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CO2 absorption cider vs beer
« on: January 30, 2015, 11:34:18 AM »
I once saw some calculations done by Andrew Lea, a UK cider expert, on priming with sugar according to the nomograph we use for beer. The calculations said the sugar added could never account for the entire volumes of CO2 in packaged beer. He figured the carbonation must be supplemented by CO2 already in solution and maybe a small amount of fermentables left in the beer at packaging.
The point was that those last two sources don't apply well to cider. Cider is often bulk-aged longer, which dissipates dissolved CO2, and is usually completely dry if priming with sugar.
Obviously, this doesn't apply to force carbonating at all - but would explain pesky carbonation in bottles.

This is fantastic insight.  Thank you for sharing!  Makes perfect sense, and something I should no doubt pay more attention to in future.

What I'm getting out of this is that if you bulk age for a long time, or swirl or agitate the cider a lot before bottling, there's not much dissolved CO2 left, so you'll want to use extra priming sugar to compensate.  This is in contrast to a fresh, not very disturbed ferment (such as with beer) where there's a lot of dissolved CO2 so then the typical "3/4 cup per 5 gallons" rule is most applicable.

Interesting!  Thanks again!  For those who don't know, Andrew Lea is like the number one smartest dude on the whole planet when it comes to all things cider.  He's like the Michael Jackson of cider, or of pop, for that matter.   ;D

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help Denny and Drew write their book!
« on: January 29, 2015, 08:11:19 AM »
I said <$200 but had to take the < out.  I'm as ghetto as they get.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Help Denny and Drew write their book!
« on: January 28, 2015, 05:23:20 PM »
Denny, I hope you will find my answers to your open-ended questions as informative as they are entertaining.  Cheers to you, sir.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CO2 absorption cider vs beer
« on: January 28, 2015, 12:15:52 PM »
I have experienced gushers, so I do know that champagne-like carbonation is entirely possible with cider.  In that case I blame the Brett that I used, which no doubt continued fermentation in the bottles for a very long time.  The priming sugar in that case only made matters even worse.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long diacetyl rest?
« on: January 27, 2015, 12:11:31 PM »
I don't rack to secondary.  Just leave the beer in primary until bottling day.  Experience of myself and many others has proven that autolysis takes many months to set in.  There is no real advantage of racking to secondary, just leave the beer in primary the whole time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How long diacetyl rest?
« on: January 27, 2015, 09:42:55 AM »
Does the beer taste like diacetyl?  If not, then you don't need to do a D rest at all.  However it won't hurt either.  For my lagers I typically raise temperature after the fermentation seems to be around 2/3 to 3/4 complete, then keep it there until fermentation is 100% complete.  Typically this will take 3-4 days, but sometimes it will take weeks.  Let the yeast be your guide.  When the airlock stops bubbling, the krausen falls, and the beer begins to clear, then you can chill back down to do your lagering phase.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CO2 absorption cider vs beer
« on: January 27, 2015, 07:49:38 AM »
It might bear mentioning.....

Perfectly clean glassware with zero residue is absolutely essential for maintaining carbonation, for beer and ESPECIALLY for cider.

Ingredients / Re: low alpha hops
« on: January 27, 2015, 07:42:25 AM »
It's not expensive if you grow your own!  Homebrewers can easily do this.  Part of this is the fear of using homegrowns for bittering because you don't know the exact alpha acid.  So guess on the alpha, experiment and refine your estimate!  I use my homegrowns for bittering ONLY, and I get great results.  Doesn't taste grassy either, although I must say my homegrowns are usually around 5-7% alpha, so they're not necessary "low alpha" depending on your definition.

Experimentation is the best way to decide for yourself whether you're doing the right things with your ingredients and your process.  Don't ever just accept one person's or a thousand peoples' rules of thumb without question.  Question everything, try everything, and be the guy who has fun learning and makes better beer because of it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CO2 absorption cider vs beer
« on: January 26, 2015, 05:17:57 PM »
I have never force carbed a cider, however I have had a lot of naturally carbonated ciders that are every bit as carbonated as a beer, some even like champagne, and I use the same amount of priming sugar as I would for beer.  So my answer to the OP's question is, I don't think the two liquids behave a lot differently, between beer vs. cider.  HOWEVER.... you should never expect to get a HEAD on a cider.  It just fizzes, like Coca-Cola.  Don't expect a white creamy head.

It's possible there is a difference in carbability.  I guess I'm no expert.  But I don't imagine it's a huge difference.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Unintentional Souring
« on: January 26, 2015, 02:01:52 PM »
I agree with Eric Bana.  I often use old plastic for transfer and chilling of hot wort prior to pitching and transfer to glass carboys.  I haven't had issues with using plastic for this short time (typically less than 12 hours).

However, I have had problems with plastic for longer periods of weeks & months.  Don't keep it there for a very long time IMHO.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Absorption
« on: January 26, 2015, 12:07:48 PM »
I get 0.10 GALLONS per pound.

Ingredients / Re: low alpha hops
« on: January 26, 2015, 10:49:45 AM »
Believe it or not, you will get quite a lot of flavor from bittering additions of low-alpha hops, especially German-style hops.  I love to use German-style hops like Hallertau and Mt. Hood and Liberty and Tettnang for bittering purposes, as they add a lovely elegant German spiciness to any beer.  In fact I almost exclusively use them for bittering and find that I don't get nearly the same elegance when added later to the boil.  I find that the wonders of these hops require longer, not shorter, boil time.  Experiment and see for yourself.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: how long on the yeast cake
« on: January 22, 2015, 08:26:15 AM »
Wow, looks wasteful on hops to me, but what do I know, I'm a malthead.  I bet you'll get identical results by eliminating the 30, 15, and 10 minute additions of Citra, and adding all your dry hops for 3-4 days.  Simplify and be amazed.

Other Fermentables / Re: less dry cider
« on: January 21, 2015, 04:57:46 PM »
Yes indeed.  Glad it turned out for you.

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