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Messages - dcbc

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash ppm in = Mash ppm out?
« on: October 04, 2010, 04:33:19 PM »
Good luck. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash ppm in = Mash ppm out?
« on: October 04, 2010, 04:29:18 PM »
I asked this question with reference to grain absorption a few months ago.  The closest thing to a consensus I got on the subject was that it was reasonable to assume that the grain would absorb the minerals dissolved in the mash water they absorbed.  In other words, for purposes of determining kettle mineral additions, the first runnings would not be presumed to have a higher concentration of minerals as a result of the grain absorbing water, but not minerals.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewpots
« on: September 30, 2010, 04:08:01 PM »
If you have a drink cooler for your sparge water, that will hold temp better.  I have a 40 qt kettle with a valve and thermometer for sale.  If you're interested, shoot me an email at dnortonames (at) yahoo (dot) com.

Classifieds / Re: For Sale: 10 Gallon MegaPot with Valve and Thermometer
« on: September 28, 2010, 06:22:09 PM »
And here's a current picture.  Sorry for the crappy cell phone shot.  The thermometer is not actually blurry. 

Pimp My System / Re: Kegerator Showcase
« on: September 28, 2010, 04:43:22 PM »
After 7 years of having a freestanding kegerator in the laundry room, I was able to convince my wife to go with a more permanent solution.  When there's food on it, it's a dining room buffet.  Otherwise, it's the bar.  The old freestanding summit is now on lagering duty.

Classifieds / SOLD: 10 Gallon MegaPot with Valve and Thermometer
« on: September 28, 2010, 04:28:21 PM »
I'm upsizing the brewery and am offering up my 10 gallon MegaPot purchased from Northern Brewer.  The pot has a stainless 1/2" weldless valve fitting.  Last year, I had a 1/2" female threaded port added above the valve to accommodate an mpt thermometer.  The thermometer is included as well as the lid.  

The pot has been used as a brew kettle and, later, as a hot liquor tank.  It is in great shape, but does have some discoloration on the bottom of the pot as well as the inside floor from normal use.  

I will add some better pictures later, but this is the kettle in action (prior to thermometer installation).

$160 plus actual shipping cost to be paid by buyer from zip code 75703.

I take paypal.

Please email me with any questions.  dnortonames (at) yahoo (dot) com.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Dreaded O Word
« on: September 02, 2010, 04:42:33 PM »
I have a spot in the corner of the garage for the brew stand.  Kettles are stored in place.  I have shelving next to it with the mash tun and two plastic storage boxes full of hoses, worth chiller, and various gear.  In my closet, in the house, I have another storage box with things necessary to make starters (flask, stir plate, extra specialty grain) and deal with kegging, cleaning.  Iodophor and oxyclean are under the sink since that's where they get used.  I also have a small toolbox that contains all of the little stuff, stir bars, grommets, thermometers, gaskets, servomyces, lactic, etc, etc.

I don't do bulk grain storage, but may some day.  I need to relocate my grain mill and motor/table over by the stand since my old summit kegerator is going to be positioned next to my other storage fridge on that side of the garage.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: commercial vs homebrew carbonation/serving
« on: August 25, 2010, 04:42:43 PM »
I have run commercial kegs next to home brew kegs.  You are correct about many commercial kegs coming from the brewery highly carbonated (about 3 volumes).  I have done a lot of different things to work with foam issues and seem to have found a happy place.

1.  Longer lines.  I am running a tower and use 10 ft. of line.  Yes, I know the formula indicates I should be fine with 5', but that never worked out in the real world of my kegerator.
2.  Dual regulators.  Much easier to keep things finely tuned.
3.  Bleed pressure completely from commercial keg before hooking up the gas.
4.  Fan to keep air circulation in the fridge at maximum.  I don't even blow it into the tower any more.  But keeping the temps a bit more uniform in the upper portions of the fridge really seems to help. 
5.  Toss the lines behind the keg close to the cooling element.
6.  Short pull at first to get cold beer into the faucet, count to 15 or so, then pull the beer.
7.  Ventmatic or Perlick forward seal faucets.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Your Homebrew Name
« on: August 25, 2010, 04:35:38 PM »

Dry County Brewing Concern

I live in a dry county (for now) and this concerns me.

62 and fermenting away.  Finally found a recipe that works and it is really helping beat the heat this summer.

Thanks for the advice.  I'll get a longer tube and keep the stone in the equation.  I was all set to try the ball lock qd setup, but my fermentation had kicked off and I wasn't going to introduce any O2 at that point.  Those hefeweizen strains certainly don't waste any time ginning up.

Thanks, Gordon and Matt.  The tubing is 3/8".  So I could source more pretty easily to get it to the bottom. 

However, my question is would I loose much efficiency as far as getting O2 into solution by removing the stone from the equation and pushing the O2 down the liquid dip tube in the keg?  That way, I could just throw a liquid disconnect on the tubing in place of the stone, open the valve a bit, and pop it on the liquid post on the keg.  O2 goes to the bottom and bubbles up.  Bigger bubbles, yes.  But must easier to sanitize since it's sanitized anyway.  This is how I carbonate my kegs, though obviously not with O2. 

I guess there's only one way to find out.

I've got an oxygen question.  I recently picked up an O2 aeration system.  It came with the regulator, aeration stone, and about 2 feet of 3/8" tubing.  I ferment in a 15 gallon corny keg (tall and narrow).  I was able to get the stone under the surface of the wort, but not by much. 

Has anyone who ferments in kegs rigged something up to add oxygen through the liquid out dip tube.  I would have to ditch the aeration stone to do this, but figure I could get the O2 in from the bottom this way and get better coverage with it bubbling up through the entirety of the wort.  It would also be easier to sanitize since the dip tube is taken care of when I sanitize the keg.

Is there enough pressure on these disposable O2 bottles to push through the dip tube when the volume of wort will be pushing back to a point, so to speak.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Barley Crusher in today!
« on: July 22, 2010, 03:36:27 PM »
The Fedex guy showed up today with my new toy!
 I crushed 7 pounds for my next batch with the crank and will never do that again. I was sweating in the kitchen cranking that damn thing. Glad to have a motor and drill to run in from now on.

I suffered cranking that thing in the kitchen forever (probably 7 batches).  Tried the drill and had the chuck seize up on me.  Finally got the Surplus Sales motor rigged up to a switch on a table and life is good.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cornies as fermenters?
« on: January 07, 2010, 10:45:12 PM »
I've been doing ten gallon batches in a 15 gallon corny keg for the last 9 months or so.  All the pluses previously mentioned apply.  The only downside is weight.  So I put some casters on my chest freezer and roll it over to the brew stand to pump the wort from the BK.  I had to put a 12" collar on my chest freezer to accommodate it. 

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