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Messages - dcbc

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Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Fermenter Size
« on: March 20, 2013, 07:49:16 PM »
I recall reading on Blichmann's website that you can.  As for carbonating, they are not designed to hold pressure apart from the 2--5 psi for transfers. 

Going Pro / Re: Homebrew clubs
« on: March 02, 2013, 03:04:18 AM »
Coulld he throw a cooler with a braid in the middle?  Would that be enough of a change without his having to buy all new equipment?  Just lawyering it a little.  Does it have to be a completely new setup, or just different enough?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n water spreadsheet
« on: March 01, 2013, 05:44:37 PM »
For pale ales and IPAs, I have had good results with SO4 in the 225--250 ppm range.  My Cl levels are about 55 ppm.  While that strikes me as a pretty high ratio of SO4:Cl, it works well for the style.  Typically, for hoppy beers like a Pilsner, I keep the ratio at closer to 2:1.

Equipment and Software / Re: March pump issues
« on: February 26, 2013, 10:13:41 PM »
How hot is the liquid you are trying to pump?  If it is boiling, cavitation is likely the issue.  The new impeller is a definite improvement.  But lately, I don't recirculate during the boil.  I just hit it once the flame is extinguished.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Thermometer for fermentation chamber
« on: February 18, 2013, 06:54:46 PM »
I'd add that if you are using a temperature controller like a Ranco, it will display the current temp. being reported by the probe. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What to do with a slow fermenting beer
« on: February 18, 2013, 06:33:27 PM »
Just leave it alone and let it finish up.  I have had a Bohemian Pilsner take 5 weeks to finish up.  WLP 800 is ridiculously slow.  No ill effects from patience, unless you consider a delicious beer an ill effect.  Save for two, all of my less than good beers have been a result of my rushing things.

Equipment and Software / Re: Banjo Burner Issue...
« on: February 17, 2013, 02:05:21 AM »
Nice. I like the heat deflector on your valve too.

Looks like the ones from  I have several of those.  They work great.  Wish I had found them before I cooked the rubber coating off a couple of my ball valve handles.  :(

Kegging and Bottling / Re: morebeer reconditioned corny kegs
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:32:01 AM »
I had a 10 gallon keg with a post like that, and I used it for a couple of years before I noticed it.  Hard to get the post on, but otherwise, no problems. I finally noticed some air getting in the lines and realized the post needed to be repaired.  I had removed the post a couple of times and just hadn't noticed it.  It happens. Glad they made it right. 

Going Pro / Re: Business Plan
« on: February 11, 2013, 12:47:11 AM »
From a competition perspective, I would consider keeping the pilot system for testing recipes and new products.  If something isn't selling fast, don't keep brewing it in smaller batches.  Stop brewing it.  As home brewers, we all have that beer we brew once per year, but not more often because we don't like it that much.  On the pro side, if it's not selling, let someone else brew it.

Equipment and Software / Re: Motorized whirlpool?
« on: February 03, 2013, 03:12:41 AM »
You can run a paint mix-stir on a drill.  Just run it slow so you don't aerate the wort.  You will get a good spin going in no time.  Won't cost much if you already have a drill.

Pimp My System / Re: Brutus Ten Pressure question
« on: January 30, 2013, 08:32:36 PM »
I found this answer on another forum.  I have taken a KAB4 Banjo Burner, screwed a NG (low pressure) orifice into it, and it functioned just fine.  So the following stands to reason:

High pressure systems are usually above 1/2 PSI and up to 30 PSI as found in most of the portable cookers and fryers. This is an easy and cheap way to go for the makers of the cookers as the higher the gas pressure the greater the heat delivery for a given size burner. The common heating system gas valves are not usable at these pressures and there are no conversion parts to make them safely operate at greater than 1/2 PSI. The main option for safe burner operation at high pressure is to use 2 solenoid valves per burner and an electric ignition control module that lights pilot burner and turns off gas if pilot goes out to prevent explosion.

Low pressure systems have 2 pressure standards in use, 11" WC(water column) for propane systems, and 4" WC for residential Natural Gas systems. The gas furnace valves with standing pilots can be used on brew rigs for burner control instead of 2 solenoid valves with ignition module, and the cost is usually only 25% more than a single solenoid valve. For those that want the bling factor of electric ignition there are suitable gas furnace valves and igntion modules, or the 2 solenoid valves, 1 ignition module method.

Most of the gas burners popular in homebrewing can be operated at either high or low pressure if the correct gas jet is used, as stated before more pressure gives more fire with same size burner. While the multijet burners have their uses you need to know that the multijet burners are only happy at or near wide open and are sometimes used under the HLT. The 10" Banjo/Hurricane burners are able to operate over a wide range of settings and are usually used where flame adjustment is important like MLT and boil kettle applications.

Solenoids for burner control should be able to operate from 0 - 100 PSI as the solenoids that operate at 5 PSI - 100 PSI require at least 5 PSI pressure just to open, if used on low pressure they will not work. The popular solenoid valves in use on the brew rigs are the STC 2W160's as they are more reasonably priced than the equivalent ASCO valves. If you are going the solenoid valves and ignition module control route, the solenoids need to have coils built for 24 VAC to work with the ignition module.

Equipment and Software / Re: What 10 gal fermenter?
« on: January 29, 2013, 09:55:19 PM »
I use a jumper with a T off of my 15 gal. corny to fill two 5 gallon kegs at once.  Works extremely well.  Looking at Dean's setup, I am wishing my chest freezer could hold two of them.

Going Pro / Re: vendors / manufacturers
« on: January 22, 2013, 04:47:43 PM »
As long as you're looking around, check out Newland Systems as well.

Equipment and Software / Re: What 10 gal fermenter?
« on: January 21, 2013, 08:15:54 PM »
I use a 15 gallon corny.  Cut the dip tube off an inch and it works great.  I have the chest freezer with a 12" collar on wheels to move it to the brew stand.  There would be no lifting that corny full over the side of the chest freezer.  Transfer out to a pair of kegs with a Y-jumper line and CO2.  Easy as can be.  To clean, fill with hot PBW.  Benefit over a Sanke, I can see in to make sure I have it clean (requires a little brushing some times).

They are about $250.  So not cheap.  But cheaper than a conical.

Equipment and Software / Re: propane vs natural gas
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:36:56 AM »
That is exactly the photo I was looking for.  I'm going to look at my natural gas and propane ring burners this evening if I remember.  Without directly comparing to my burners, I thing these are propane burners.

Normally, these types of burners burn yellow and orange when on low and only turn blue at the optimal flowrate.  Any kind of non-optimal conditions tend to make these burners burn blue-orange IME such as not enough spacing above and below and proper ventilation.

Very true.  Plus, any restriction in the pipe size to them that chokes them down a bit can cause problems.  They need a lot of pressure to offset the opposing burner and get the air to mix properly.

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