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Otoh I am making less money now than my first job out of college almost 25 years ago.
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I've been homebrewing for a little over 13 years and I've always known that the quickest way for me to learn to hate brewing would be by becoming a professional brewer.
\For a 5-gallon batch at around 1.050 OG, I pitch one smack pack with no starter. That's a little under what the yeast calculators recommend, but I'm happy with the results.What rate would you consider to be overpitching? With the predicted OG I normally go one smack pack. Is this too much, too little, or just right? Should I ask goldilocks? Just kidding thanks for the help!Thanks for the input everyone! I really appreciate all the help. I know it may be bad form but I also wanted to get your thoughts on WYeast 3638 for wheats?I love it. It is my go-to hefe strain. It gives some sweet spice (hints of vanilla/sweet cinnamon), along with the usual banana/clove. Don't overpitch and ferment around 66F for a balanced clove/banana character. Higher temps give more banana and lower temps tend to mute the flavor profile.
There's not a really good way I know of to figure out pitching rates for bottle conditioning. For a 5 gallon batch 1/2 pack of rehydrated dry yeast should be plenty.
I think it is a waste to use liquid yeast for bottle conditioning. The flavor contribution will be minimal at best. That said, I have use wine yeast for my belgian bottle conditioned beers and I thought the results were very interesting.
finally, unless you have a high gravity beer or long aged beer you shouldn't need any additional yeast!
I think that 1/2 a pack is far too much yeast. Commercials dose at 10g per hl IIRC.
I agree though that you shouldn't have to re-seed unless it's long aged or very high gravity.
Never had that MDixon. Let us know how it is if you try it.
I did finally sample my bottle of Town Branch. Wow. Very good. Tastes a lot like Noah's Mill with a thinner body. It will be perfect for the warm months ahead. Thanks for the recommendation. For the price, I would not have thought it would be this good.
The only thing about malt extract for starters that is important is to use unhopped extracts.Say what?
I'm just curious because starter instructions I've seen from older books called for hops, presumably to ward off bacteria. I just assumed that was abandoned due to the cost and the fact that good sanitation made it unnecessary.