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Messages - majorvices

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16
All Things Food / Re: Smokers: electric vs gas
« on: February 01, 2016, 11:00:00 AM »
Thanks, I will look into the akorn this summer maybe. I ended up getting a Masterbuilt gas smoker and I love it. Used it yesterday to smoke 2 chickens and a pork butt. I was worried about it draining gas but it barely used any over a 6 hour period. I'm extremely pleased with the results.

17
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ferment Beer 9 Times Faster
« on: January 31, 2016, 12:37:54 PM »
$10 says the beer is sh!t.

18
Ingredients / Re: Vitners Harvest Purees
« on: January 31, 2016, 09:28:34 AM »
Has anybody used their mango purée? It's the only reasonably priced mango purée that I can find. I'll deal with whole fruit, but I'd rather not lol.

I go to costco, buy the frozen mangos and make my own puree in a food processor. Cheap. Easy and tastes great.

Thanks, Keith... How many Mangos do you use in a batch. I was planning maybe 7.5lbs. I'm going to make a habanero/mango pale ale.

I used 4 pounds in a 5 gallon batch in secondary and it had plenty of mango flavor. Tasted great. First time I did it with a citra pale ale, right now I have 4 lbs aging in a 5 gallon carboy of tripel.

General rule has always been 1-2 pounds of fruit per gallon but I sometimes find that 1 pound per gallon can actually be too much depending on what you are going for. I prefer subtlety.

19
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bulk lagering and bottle lagering
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:53:19 AM »
What style is is? Are you bottle conditioning? If bottle conditioning the yeast will get roused back into suspension during shipping and may give a different taste to the beer than you intend.

IMO most light lagers only need a couple of weeks lagering with the addition of a fining agent to drop the beer clear. This can be done in the primary fermentor if you want. Best to purge any secondary vessel with co2 if you plan on racking.

I will brew a Vienna lager with WLP833 or maybe Wyeast 2206, maybe i will also compete with a Munich Helles using WLP833. I do bottle conditioning and that is a really good point of the yeast rousing back during shipping. I can get Biofine Clear and bottle condition with new yeast, do you recommend lagering or just using a fining agent right away and bottle with new yeast?
ii

If you are bottle conditioning probably best to fine first, get the beer as clear as possible and then add a little back (rehydrated quarter of a packet of us-05) so that you have as little yeast in the bottle as possible.

20
Ingredients / Re: Vitners Harvest Purees
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:50:00 AM »
Has anybody used their mango purée? It's the only reasonably priced mango purée that I can find. I'll deal with whole fruit, but I'd rather not lol.

I go to costco, buy the frozen mangos and make my own puree in a food processor. Cheap. Easy and tastes great.

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: personal experience with old malt
« on: January 30, 2016, 06:48:35 AM »
I have personally left crushed grain in  a sealed bag for over a year and it made fine beer.

22
Beer Recipes / Re: Trappist Single recipe
« on: January 30, 2016, 06:42:42 AM »

It may just make a great beer but it won't be appropriate for the style.

I do not disagree.  I believe T-58 is a Saison yeast which is probably where I'll end up.  However, a wise brewer told me "I certainly only think that style guides should be used as a starting point, and in no way should they be a mold we craft all of our beer by."

Sorry I missed you yesterday. Next time I'll have the yeast ready and let someone know you are coming. I will be popping down there around 11 today if you want to try again.

23
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bulk lagering and bottle lagering
« on: January 30, 2016, 06:40:49 AM »
What style is is? Are you bottle conditioning? If bottle conditioning the yeast will get roused back into suspension during shipping and may give a different taste to the beer than you intend.

IMO most light lagers only need a couple of weeks lagering with the addition of a fining agent to drop the beer clear. This can be done in the primary fermentor if you want. Best to purge any secondary vessel with co2 if you plan on racking.

24
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation - Mitch Steele
« on: January 30, 2016, 04:00:02 AM »
How do you purge a piece of tubing? You put co2 in it, it's just going to be immediately mixed with air again. That's overkill. Unless you're doing a closed transfer from a keg to a keg, I don't know how you would 100% purge a piece of tubing that you're hooking up to a spigot.

You can do a closed transfer on the Spiedel. You can have your receiving vessel charged with a low oressure of co2 2psi or so) and blow the co2 back through the tube. Theres a tiny hole on the back side of the spigot when it's in "closed position". You purge through that. You can also rig up something top gently push the beer with co2, thus replacing the head space with co2 instead of air.

Yeah, the tiny hole in the spigot is the trick. I'm certainly not going for a true closed system, my beers don't tend to last long enough for me to go quite that far, but I'm at least able to minimize the oxygen pickup. I tend not to worry about the oxygen sucked into the top of the fermenter while transferring. The beer has a layer of C02 on top already, and there is no disturbance to the top of the beer, as well as it being a slow/gentle drain. I'm sure I get a bit of oxygen, but it's small enough that I haven't picked up any oxidation that I can taste within the amount of time I take to finish up a keg.

Yep. For small batches I don't worry too much but if it is convenient I will minimize os pick up at every chance. I definitely purge any secondary transfer vessel though. I think that makes a difference.

25
All Grain Brewing / Re: personal experience with old malt
« on: January 30, 2016, 03:52:07 AM »
Agree. Taste it. If it tastes good and is still friable it will still be good. If sealed and uncrushed malt lasts well over a year. I bet it is fine.

Welcome to the forum! I started brewing much the same way.

26
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation - Mitch Steele
« on: January 29, 2016, 10:20:40 AM »
Using an autosiphon looks way easier than that set up. Using the spigot on a Speidel even easier. ;)
I got a speidel for Christmas and kegged my first batch fermented in it this past Saturday. Boy, was it easier! I purged my keg with CO2 first.  Only problem is I then dry hopped.  Guess I will add my dry hops first, then purge next time.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

+1

I love the ability to just drain via a spigot, no siphon to worry about. For my hoppy beer's I try and purge the tubing with C02 as well as the keg, haven't had a problem, but then again haven't had 5 gallons of hoppy beer last more than 3 months and usually shorter.
How do you purge a piece of tubing? You put co2 in it, it's just going to be immediately mixed with air again. That's overkill. Unless you're doing a closed transfer from a keg to a keg, I don't know how you would 100% purge a piece of tubing that you're hooking up to a spigot.

You can do a closed transfer on the Spiedel. You can have your receiving vessel charged with a low oressure of co2 2psi or so) and blow the co2 back through the tube. Theres a tiny hole on the back side of the spigot when it's in "closed position". You purge through that. You can also rig up something top gently push the beer with co2, thus replacing the head space with co2 instead of air.

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager X
« on: January 29, 2016, 09:34:51 AM »
Where di you order from?

28
Ingredients / Re: chit, spitz, carapils and carafoam
« on: January 28, 2016, 06:56:32 PM »
I can get chit malt from Country Malts.

29
Beer Recipes / Re: Trappist Single recipe
« on: January 28, 2016, 06:54:10 PM »
I know a place local where you could get a really nice, fresh pitch of Belgian yeast if you asked. ;)

30
Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Question
« on: January 28, 2016, 06:52:41 PM »
Not sure why you think dumping the trub will speed up fermentation time because it won't. The main advantage is harvesting yeast, as the others have said. But it makes it a little easier to get clear beer too, assuming your conical has a racking arm. I wouldn't get one without. After you dump, harvest yeast you will crash cool, then fine, and is you fine properly most all of your yeast will fall into the cone. You can then position the arm to rack off clear beer. You should be able to rack crystal clear (or near crystal clear) beer over to kegs. Course you can do that with any other fermentor this just makes it easier.

Also, you can dry hop or add spices without worrying with yeast on the bottom. While I do think they are convenient its hard to justify the cost unless you just have the extra money and want to spend it.

BTW MoreBeer has 15 gallon conicals for sale right now at a very good price.

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