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Messages - majorvices

Pages: 1 ... 281 282 [283] 284 285 ... 583
4231
Going Pro / Yeast Nutrient
« on: February 18, 2013, 08:27:45 AM »
Next big purchase (before microbiologist!) is DO meter.
You can't buy microbiologists dude! ;D

Rats!

4232
Ingredients / Re: Polenta
« on: February 17, 2013, 04:14:30 PM »
I find corn to be a pleasant addition to a few beers. I like the way it "softly" lightens the body as opposed to sugar which lightens the body but doesn't leave anything but alcohol.

I'm working with some recipes right now with corn grits that I am fairly excited about.
You should be able to source some quality local grits down there.

Edit - what do you plan to do for a cooker? Or are you going to go the instant grits route?

Yeah, there is a mill just north of us called Falls Mill. They are one of the only water powered mills in the states. Beautiful place, too - http://www.fallsmill.com/

I want to get a cereal cooker. Right now I'm working on 10 gallon recipes. Once I dial in and brew it commercially I'll be sure to pay my debt I owe to you and your friend. (I never brewed the StickeAlt this year. We screwed around and messed up our winter seasonals. Ooops).

4233
Beer Recipes / Re: Is this a Blond or Saison?
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:17:31 AM »
Saison has a very specific yeast character. Also, saisoins should be highly attenuated. Belgian strains are very attenuative but saison strains in particular are even more so. All that said, saison is probably the loosest style on the planet.

4234
Going Pro / Re: Yeast Nutrient
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:04:02 AM »
I disagree, I would be growing yeast from slants if I had a microbiologist on board. That's my goal at some point in time. I'd also like to hire a real master-brewer at some point in time too. The more people you have to kick around the better!

I use the Wyeast nutrient. It's cheap and effective. I think you will find on both homebrew and pro level that a little nutrient will help speed up fermentations and help remove or prevent some sulfur compounds. I do agree that it is even more necessary if you are harvesting yeast regularly.

And, fwiw I use pure o2 fro aeration. I've experimented with inline aeration but prefer to aerate the entire volume. Next big purchase (before microbiologist!) is DO meter.

4235
Ingredients / Re: Polenta
« on: February 17, 2013, 06:58:36 AM »
I find corn to be a pleasant addition to a few beers. I like the way it "softly" lightens the body as opposed to sugar which lightens the body but doesn't leave anything but alcohol.

I'm working with some recipes right now with corn grits that I am fairly excited about.

4236
The Pub / Re: Why does Budweiser just not get it?
« on: February 17, 2013, 06:55:09 AM »
It's a challenge to maximize profit when your sales in the US are slipping every year.

That said, I kinda recant what I said earlier about Bud not getting it. InBev does a good job with their massive portfolio and what is in the Bud Line actually all makes sense. They have Pils style beers in their "Becks Line" and that's where InBev is striking out. They could come out with a truly great German Style Pils made right here in the US made under the "Becks Line" and what they come out with instead is the mediocre-at-best Black Sapphire.

4239
While some of the recipes may be outdated I have found most of the "Classic Beer Style" Series to be very much worth the read, with a few exception.

4240
Commercial Beer Reviews / Becks Black Sapphire
« on: February 16, 2013, 05:47:20 AM »
I drank one out of a sixpack I bought. I agree with you about the "lingering malt finish" but kept looking for more of the sapphire hops. On a hot summers day I could see passing the "two test", but not sure about three.

4241
Ingredients / Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:40:57 PM »
Alexanders extracts are fairly low in all ions.  They have good water quality in the area of California that its made in. 

Since I don't have information on the ionic content of the spring water, I would go with the distilled water if you really want this batch to shine.  You will want to add 100 or 200 ppm of sulfate using gypsum to make the beer dry better and enhance the hopping.

Pretty cool you have all that info. You should post it all as a sticky in the extract section. I think that would be a huge help knowing what extract have what salts. Purdy cool!

4242
The Pub / Pub blather
« on: February 15, 2013, 08:48:03 AM »
I was not going to drink today but then I remembered I drink every day.

4243
General Homebrew Discussion / Refactometer
« on: February 14, 2013, 07:02:23 PM »
WTF is a "Refactometer"?

It's a device for measuring how many times people repeat trivia.

I just scrolled through every post to see if I misspelled "refractometer" ....

4244
Kegging and Bottling / keg leak help
« on: February 14, 2013, 06:08:36 PM »
Another lesson learned is to NOT force carbonate a keg >50psi with the out post connected to a QD. Beer will sneak past the o-ring and onto the floor. I can attest to this outcome.

Yes! Even 30 psi can be too high if your o rings are shoddy. I always disconnect when force carrbing over 15 psi.

4245
Ingredients / Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 14, 2013, 06:06:01 PM »
I still wouldn't add it blindly. Brew the beer first, sample it and see if there is an improvement if you add it to the second batch. If you have no idea what salts you have in your water you could be doing more harm than good.

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