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Messages - majorvices

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Ingredients / simcoe, citra and amarillo
« on: March 29, 2013, 12:17:30 PM »
Agree with the comment about 45 and 30 min. Being a waste, and you need flame out additions. Get your bus up to where you want them to be wioth a 60 minute addition and maybe a 20 minute addition and then everything else goes in under 10 min. With. The majority at flame out. Adding any hops during the boil is gong to add bitterness and lose aroma.

Ingredients / simcoe, citra and amarillo
« on: March 29, 2013, 12:13:29 PM »
I know the original Pliny clone had cara pils in it but doesn't it contradict the point to have cara pils and sugar in the same recipe?

General Homebrew Discussion / Craft beer sociology
« on: March 29, 2013, 12:10:23 PM »
When people say that craft beer is froo-froo I usually launch into a loud and annoying diatribe about how light beer was first made to target woman, and that men who drink it are pussies.

It's amazing how many people will drink bad beer and think that's just the way craft beer is supposed to taste like.

Beer Recipes / Vienna/Wheat/Pale
« on: March 28, 2013, 01:50:31 PM »
Personally I'd move the 5 min hops to flame out. Aside from that looks good.

Yeast and Fermentation / New to Lagering
« on: March 28, 2013, 01:09:47 PM »
Just remember you need to make a very large starter. The slurry from a gallon starter made with 2 vials of yeast would not be too big. Constant aeration or stirring will help minimize the size but most homebrewers problems with lagers are under pitching.

Also aerate heavily. IMO you are better off using pure o2 and aerate while the wort is cold.

As DS said, pitch cold. I like to pitch around 48 and let fermentation run at 46-48  - 50. After the bulk of fermentation is done I raise the temp to 56-58 not so much for D rest as much as just accelerating maturation.

I personally like to lager for a week or two in fermentor then rack to corny kegs ( or bright) for rest if lagering period.

For most low OG lagers 2 weeks of lagering is usually plenty.

If they asked for feedback I say give it. Of they really want it they'll listen, if not they sink or swim on their own.

Maybe just say "your packaging and story are great but I find it challenging to enjoy the beer." If they ask for more give it to them.

Beer Recipes / Re: Check my recipe?
« on: March 27, 2013, 08:48:18 PM »
Well, if you leave the honey malt in I'd back it down to 4 oz. Personally I believe that if you have too many malts you end up with a mess - unless you are SURE what every single malt will contribute to the flavor. Pick a malt, either the special roast or honey malt, and go with it. Plus, if you have both of them, how will you know which one is contributing what to the flavor?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brand new keg from
« on: March 27, 2013, 08:43:15 PM »
Back "in the day" I used to pick up used corny's for $11 a pop. You can imagine I have quite a few. But that one is certainly very shiny.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Help in identifying off flavor
« on: March 27, 2013, 07:19:27 PM »
If the Johnon controller was set to 68 and you pitched at, say, 75, you fermented way too warm. Cool the wort down below 70, and preferably in the low to mid 60s before pitching for most ale yeasts, and set the controller at 64. You need to count for the exothermic activity of the yeast, which can be 4-6+ degrees over fermentation temp.

And I personally don't care for Nottingham. Try a  nuetral dry yeast like US-05 and see what you get.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Help in identifying off flavor
« on: March 27, 2013, 04:59:48 PM »
Before we jump on sanitation band wagon: What temp are you pitching the yeast? What temp are you fermenting at? It could be an infection but high fermentation temps can also render many off flavors. Also, what yeast are you using? Some yeasts are sulphur producers, especially when not handled right, and that can smell like sewage.

I don't usually trust new brewer's when it comes to properly identifying off aromas, but woman usually have a better sense of smell than men. Sewage sounds like sulfur to me.

Beer Recipes / Drunkey Monkey
« on: March 27, 2013, 12:57:06 PM »
You don't need the carpils. Carpils is for adding dextrines and body and extract beers usually suffer from an over abundance of dextrines and body. Other than that you malt profile looks fine.

The other additions: Personally, I prefer beer flavored beer and you have a little too much going on there for my tastes but then again I remember when I first got into home brewing and all the crazy ideas I had so I can't fault you too much. ;) brew this one and then try your hand mastering a simple pale ale.

Beer Recipes / Check my recipe?
« on: March 27, 2013, 01:47:19 AM »
I'd get rid of the 120l crystal and the honey malt. Let the pale chocolate and the special roast shine through. Otherwise they will get lost.

The 120 is going to give you dark raisin like sweetness and 8 Ozzie of honey malt is going to give you a "honey like" sweetness that may be cloying. Simplicity!

All Grain Brewing / rookie who needs help with floaters!
« on: March 27, 2013, 12:34:29 AM »
Like I said, it's completely normal to have some colonies of yeast floating. RDWHAHB.

All Grain Brewing / rookie who needs help with floaters!
« on: March 26, 2013, 02:07:58 PM »
Kolsch is an ale yeast but I wouldn't pitch it at 72. The fermentation temp is alright though, as long as he didn't start fermentation out that warm it probably isn't much of an issue. That said, I start that strain out around 58 and make a 2 liter stirred starter.

As far as "floaters" go. Agree we need more info. Is this in the finished beer? you may sometimes get little colonies of yeast in the fermentor floating on surface of beer. If this is what you are concerned with set your worries aside. It's perfectly natural and won't carry over into glass.

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