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Messages - majorvices

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46
Equipment and Software / Re: Buying a used wine barrel
« on: January 25, 2016, 05:56:48 AM »
Wineries don't really want wine character to carry over to the next batch like brewers would. I have used freshly dumped wine barrels with great success. You can still use these wine barrels  but they may be neutral by the time you get them, imparting very little wood flavor. Wineries use cubes, staves and chips to add oak flavor back in neutral barrels.

You might be able to contact the winery directly and score some barrels but one thing to consider is that wineries use barrels until the barrel either develops a problem (like an infection) or have been used so much they are literally falling apart. This is one reason why wine barrels are hard to come by.

Some time wine barrels are inoculated with malolactic bacteria. This bacteria will further dry out whatever beer you put in it and once it is in the wood it is quite difficult to get out. I have enjoyed the saisons I have brewed in wine bbls inoculated with malolactic.

47
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler Video...
« on: January 24, 2016, 12:36:29 PM »
Nice video. I've had one of those things sitting in the Box for about 15 years, but never used it because it seemed like a lot of trouble just to bottle a sixer. In your opinion, does one need to do a lot of bottling to make it worth it? I've been getting by by just filing a growler or two.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

I built a 4 head one for commercial application. If it is mounted to a stand it is super easy to use. I bottles thousands of 22 oz bottles with that thing until we bough a real semi automated unit.

48
Beer Recipes / Re: Imperial Stout - Help!
« on: January 24, 2016, 12:28:58 PM »
You are going to need a lot more roasted barley. Should be around 10% of your grist. There's no need for the cara pils. You should remove it.

49
Beer Recipes / Re: How does my Stout recipe look?
« on: January 24, 2016, 08:24:01 AM »
The carpils is an odditiy but I don't think it will hurt your recipe. Traditional Irish stout recipe is something like 70% Pale Ale malt, 20% Flaked barley and 10% roast barley @ around 1.045 SG. That is a good guideline to start with. For mine I prefer to sup in a little German dark Munich malt for the Pale Ale malt and hot around 1.050.


I use the 70/20/10 and bump up the OG for Irish to around 1.050, too. But I need to try some Munich in mine sometime. I love Munich in other stouts.

Best Dark Munich is the key for me!

50
Ingredients / Re: 2014 Amarillo
« on: January 24, 2016, 05:03:57 AM »
No experience with 2014 Amarillo, but I had a pound of 2013 that were terrible.  Amarillo was one of my favorite hops to that point, so it took a while before convincing myself it was the hops.  They had a harsh character when used for bittering, an almost meaty flavor and a weird musky, sweaty aroma when added late.  I actually received judges comments that said it smelled "like sweaty old man."  With short supply and high demand for the hop, maybe what makes its way to the homebrew market is whatever is left.  I'll happily drink commercial beers showcasing Amarillo, but when brewing myself, there are plenty of other hops I like that are easier to get and (so far) have been more consistent.

There is unfortunately often times a difference between what a commercial brewer contracts and what is left out on the spot market.

51
My burner on my 1 bbl system has no damper to adjust the air mix ratio. I have to use the height of the burner to do that. By lowering the height of the burner I have gotten rid of the soot and increased boil times.

52
I just gotta say, this was my favorite xBmt experiment thus far. Very good stuff!
Was just like the other xBmts as far as I could tell. :)

I like all his experiments but this one is something along the lines I have been thinking for a very long time.

53
Beer Recipes / Re: How does my Stout recipe look?
« on: January 24, 2016, 04:58:12 AM »
The carpils is an odditiy but I don't think it will hurt your recipe. Traditional Irish stout recipe is something like 70% Pale Ale malt, 20% Flaked barley and 10% roast barley @ around 1.045 SG. That is a good guideline to start with. For mine I prefer to sup in a little German dark Munich malt for the Pale Ale malt and hot around 1.050.

54
I just gotta say, this was my favorite xBmt experiment thus far. Very good stuff!

55
yeah I would guess it is brett or acetobacter or both. Taste it before you dump it. Agree with comment that some of these strains have brett in them already.

56
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Racking before end of fermentation
« on: January 23, 2016, 06:52:33 AM »
It would seem to me that they are not clearing the beer in the primary.

I should point out that I use a "secondary" vessel or bright tank for every beer I brew, even 10 gallon batches. That secondary vessel just is either a `15.5 gallon sanky keg or two corny kegs. The difference is these secondary vessels are purged of o2. You can do the same thing with a carboy.

One would think that racking a beer near the end of fermentation that there would still be enough active yeast in solution to clean up the beer and finish whatever fermentation and clean up any oxygen that was brought over as well. And with low floccing yeasts that really should be the case. Only on high floccing yeasts like English strains where the yeast needs to be roused (in some cases) to fully attenuate should racking early actually cause a problem. However, empirical evidence has shown me that racking a beer, for some reason, often causes the yeast to drop out of suspension and I have no idea why this is. And we have all trouble shot questions on this forum about underattenuation that seemed to result from racking early.

IMO it is not a good idea to ever rack before fermentation is finished, but if you save the yeast you could repitch if you don't reach your FG.

57
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Racking before end of fermentation
« on: January 21, 2016, 05:06:09 AM »
The counterarguments are plain and simple: "we have no stalled fermentation, we have no diacetyl, we have no acetaldehyde."

I think it can be done if managed properly. However, it is a step that can also cause problems if not. It is also a completely unnecessary step and looking to fix a problem that does not exist in the first place.

I have experienced autolysis before but never on homebrew batches that were kept on the primary yeast for up to 6 weeks after fermentation has been finished when kept cold. Simply not a problem.

I can tell you that for me, on 30 and 60 bbl batches, I get the beer clear in the fermentor first. Then rack clear beer over to the BBT to carbonate. Generally, once beer is in BBT it is only there for 24-72 hours. Of course, I do have the luxury of dumping yeast, but I still assert it is not necessary on 5-10 gallon batches. And I absolutely know for certain you can get crystal clear beer in the primary.

58
All Grain Brewing / Re: Temperature swings
« on: January 19, 2016, 07:05:41 PM »
Simple answer is no, but as the others said: Ambient temp won't necessarily affect thermal mass of liquid as quickly and really isn't necessary to use a secondary for every beer, especially if just cold crashing. You can get the beer jst as clear on the yeast and risk less oxygen exposure. But if you are purging your secondary with Co2 then there is no reason why you can't do a secondary.

59
Ingredients / Re: Briess Brewers Malt vs. Pale Malt
« on: January 19, 2016, 05:59:07 AM »
I like the Briess Pale malt, it's fine as a base malt for pale ales and dark beers, especially American ones. Briess has a reputation as a big maltster but it is actually one of the smaller ones. I'm not a huge fan of all their malts but some of them are quite nice. the Pale malt has  asubtle "cookie" like character I think most will enjoy. That said, it's not going to make very authentic English/Scotch/Irish tatsing beers if that is what you are going for.

60
Beer Recipes / Re: which CaraMunich do I need?
« on: January 18, 2016, 06:45:53 AM »
FTR I don't give a damn what the style guides say. Ever. That was a personal recommendation based on my own experience. I think that a base of 100% vienna is a great place to start. I Personally only think you want to add crystal malts with a light hand. But there is no disputing what wins and loses in comps. Except that sometimes what wins or loses makes a better 2 oz pour than an actual back to back 16 oz session beer.

But I certainly only think that style guides should be used as a starting point, and in no way should they be a mold we craft all of our beer by.

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