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Messages - majorvices

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4906
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermcap S
« on: August 26, 2012, 07:59:14 AM »
All of this had made up my mind that I will cut back or eliminate my use of Fermcap.  I made beer without it for years and even though it may not be immediately fatal, I have enough health problems already that I don't see the need to be potentially adding any more.

+1 Why take a chance?
Life is full of risks.  I'm convinced that this risk is less than many, and less risky than eating fruit sprayed with pesticide.  But do what works for you, no problem.

Man, I've done sheets of acid, mounds of cocaine and smoked bushels of dope, consumed buckets of pills and literally thousands of gallons of beer and bourbon in my 42 years along with hundreds of cigars. But thankfully I have never consumed more than a dropper full of Fermcap, if that. Whew!  ;)

4907
The Pub / God Speed Neil Armstrong
« on: August 26, 2012, 05:00:31 AM »
Raised a toast to him last night with close friends. RIP.

4908
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: White House Brew Recipe
« on: August 25, 2012, 07:12:03 AM »
sort of on this subject, I'm reading this interview with the guy Obama gave a homebrew beer to recently, and the following section is confusing me...

http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/2012/08/meet-brad-magerkurth-man-with-secrets.html

Magerkurth also said that the bottle cap--which carries no marking, such as a Presidential seal--is "bench capped."
How beer bottles are capped is important, to maintain flavor and keep the brew stable. Bench capping allows bottles to be re-used, because the bottle top can be twisted off. It's a more expensive proposition than using a hand capping tool.

"A bench capper is about four hundred bucks," Magerkurth said, implying that the President has a pricey brewing operation.


*********

$400?!  Is this just a confused/uninformed interviewer?  Or a guy who has supposedly homebrewed but never bought/used a bench capper?  I've got one; cost me a little over 40 bucks.  From the pic the homebrew in question certainly does not appear to be a twist-off.


anyway what am I missing?  And if there's some expensive homebrewing gadget I haven't bought yet I need to know.  ;D

thanks--
--Michael

I have a pneumatic capper (at my brewery) that probably cost at least $400. I don't think it is any better than a standard wing or bench capper, but it is a hell of a lot faster.

4909
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Diacetyl Blindness
« on: August 25, 2012, 05:48:08 AM »
I am very sensitive to diacetyl. Used to be that Redhook ESB was loaded with it, but I don't know if that is the case any longer. I brewed a kolsch a couple months ago that is slightly tainted with diacetyl (it was one that I had trouble raising over 58 degrees due to my weird method of fermenting it in my cold room). I can't drink it. My wife says it is delicious.

4910
Kegging and Bottling / how long does dry hopping last?
« on: August 24, 2012, 04:30:12 AM »
BTW: If IPA doesn't move fast with your buddies then  it may be time to get new buddies. ;) OTOH I think I could move 10 gallons of IPA myself in 4-6 weeks.

4911
Kegging and Bottling / how long does dry hopping last?
« on: August 24, 2012, 04:28:37 AM »
I think they fade significantly over 4-6 weeks. One of the benefits homebrewers have over commercial beer consumers, we can drink truly fresh dry hopped beers. I have rarely had a bottle of truly fresh IPA from the store shelf.

4912
Kegging and Bottling / no carbonation
« on: August 24, 2012, 04:26:31 AM »
That's a good question. I think rehydrated should do the trick but if you can get it started that may work better, though it will be messier. Don't be afraid to warm them up into the mid, even high 70s.

4913
Beer Recipes / Roggenbier yeast alternative
« on: August 23, 2012, 07:06:41 PM »
 A roggenalt then! Sounds good to me.

4914
Beer Recipes / Re: Roggenbier yeast alternative
« on: August 23, 2012, 01:25:24 PM »
It's not going to taste anything like a roggenbier if you don't use a hefeweizen type yeast. Might be a tasty beer though. You might consider upping the hops (and adding some flavor/aroma hops) a bit to make the beer a bit more interesting.
This is track I started down.  I've modified the recipe and added more Tettnang to get the IBUs up to ~22 and boosted the Saaz at the end to bolster some aroma. So you think fermenting around 58-60 df would give me a cleaner profile while keeping line with the style?  That makes sense. Decisions, decisions, I love homebrewing.

No. I don't think it will be to style without the clove/bannana. It'll be something else entirely. Maybe you should just brew an alt.  ;)

4915
The Pub / Someone stole a whole canning line
« on: August 23, 2012, 06:36:00 AM »
How do you fake a fire? cardboard cutouts of flames?

 ;D ;D

LOL. More evidence that I should abstain from posting before my second cup of coffee. :)

4916
Kegging and Bottling / no carbonation
« on: August 23, 2012, 04:44:46 AM »
I would follow my advice above. Reyeast with some dry yeast, rehydrating a pack of USo5 and add a dropper full to each bottle and recap. If possible warm to mid 70's for 7-10 days. I bet they carb up.

4917
The Pub / Someone stole a whole canning line
« on: August 23, 2012, 04:39:53 AM »
Insurance scam.

Aren't we Mr. Skeptical. ;) Besides, anyone who owns a brewery knows that you fake a fire for insurance scams. (Lord I hope that doest come back to bite my ass!)

4918
Beer Recipes / Roggenbier yeast alternative
« on: August 23, 2012, 04:35:18 AM »
It's not going to taste anything like a roggenbier if you don't use a hefeweizen type yeast. Might be a tasty beer though. You might consider upping the hops (and adding some flavor/aroma hops) a bit to make the beer a bit more interesting.

4919
Ingredients / cedar chips
« on: August 23, 2012, 04:31:45 AM »
what about the planks for cooking salmon? I see those in the grocery store by the grilling stuff.

4920
General Homebrew Discussion / Dry moss?
« on: August 22, 2012, 06:48:57 PM »
nope. it needs to be boiled. IM helps to drop out hot break, mostly. It works in the kettle but won't work on finished beer. If you have a yeast haze you can add some fining agents like gelatin or Biofine clear, which works well. Not sure of any way to drop out a protein haze post fermentation, though.

FWIW I like my American IPAs to have a bit of haze. Not a hefeweizen haze, but a slight haze from the hop resins. In fact, if an IPA gets too clear it usually loses much hop aroma and flavor as fining agents can cause the yeast to pull out the hop resins. If it is cloudy but tastes good you may want to just leave it alone.

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