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Messages - majorvices

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« on: December 12, 2011, 06:21:22 AM »
For some reason I could not pick up a digital signal for SNF last night. Pissed me off!

The Pub / Re: Another book thread
« on: December 11, 2011, 08:49:50 PM »
Hey Weaze, I know we talked about "Lonesome Dove" a couple years back. Did you ever read "Comanche Moon"? Almost as good as LD in a lot of ways. It's a prequel to LD and more than worth the read. Great yarn.

I'm currently reading Jeff Shaara's "The Steel Wave". Pretty good if you are into WWII history.

« on: December 11, 2011, 04:06:25 PM »
Hey major, Who Dat?   ;D

It was a heartbreaker in Nashville but we played down to the wire. Great game overall but I was disappointed with the outcome obviously. Hard to hate Drew Breeze. That guy is total class.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto Starter
« on: December 11, 2011, 08:35:17 AM »
I don't think you need a starter, just pitch a vial or smack pack. Unlike growing yeast for a beer lacto, pedio and the like don't need high cell counts and they don't have to have their cell walls in tact to grow. Just pitch it in and let it do its job.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: forgot to aerate
« on: December 11, 2011, 08:33:08 AM »
Aeration strengthens the cell walls so the cells can divide properly. As was mentioned, if you pitched a healthy starter it may very well not be necessary to aerate especially if you aerated the starter during propagation. Also, if you pitched dry yeast you probably don't need to aerate because the dry yeast cells are supposed to have their glycogen stores already built up. If, however, you only pitched a vial or smack pack you will definitely need to aerate or you will most likely have fermentation troubles because not only are you most likely underpitching but if your yeast is not extremely fresh then it has already started using those reserves and will not be in very good shape for fermentation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: choosing a yeast for my first Barleywine
« on: December 10, 2011, 06:23:46 PM »
If you do not plan on making a small beer to grow yeast for this beer then I would suggest using 2 or 3 packs of US-05. My favorite strain for an english style B-wine is WLP007, but you will want to be sure to have plenty of yeast. See the pitching calc at to get an idea how much yeast you will need. Using champagne yeast is the wrong idea. Wine yeast has evolved to eat fructose, not maltose. Aside from odd flavors you may also find it is actually less attenuative than ale yeast.

As far as your recipe, if you are going for an English Barley Wine drop the special B. The sugar doesn't bother me, but your hops do. Go all Kent Goldings or Fuggle or Willamette or something English (or based on English lineage) hops rather than Sazz, which is a German or Czech hop. Challenger is a great english hop and you could go all challenger or Challenger and EKG.

If it were my beer I would go something like 95% Marris Otter malt and 5% dark crystal, maybe crystal 80L or even 120L. If you want to sub in a little sugar that's fine, but keep it restrained because as Denny mentioned you want to be sure the beer has plenty of body.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Hefe fermentation temp...62F?
« on: December 10, 2011, 07:57:38 AM »
I like the flavor of WLP380, but I've had trouble getting it to attenuate fully at 62.  I've had much better success pitching it in the low 60's but fermenting a few degrees warmer.

That being said, the yeast that Jamil recommends fermenting at 62 in Brewing Classic Styles is WLP300 or Wyeast 3068, so maybe that strain does better in the low 60's than the WLP380.

RReally? I have never had any problems at all pitching as low as 56 and fermenting most of it in the high 50's low 60's. I always warm up near 66-68 near the very end though.

I like the idea of blending WLP300 and 380 mentioned about. I'm going to try that on my next one.

The Pub / Re: Have to vent....
« on: December 10, 2011, 07:54:49 AM »
I hear you. I don't have any tire pressure lights, but I've got one damned loud seat belt buzzer that I'd like to shoot if I could ever find it.

I have a Toyota Tacoma with a seat belt buzzer that dings for about 2 minutes, annoying as hell - especially when something on the passenger seat sets it off. I looked it up on line how to shut it off. Found it on a Tacoma forum. Some kind of sequential steps you have to go through. You might find the same for your vehicle.

The Pub / Re: an irruptive year
« on: December 09, 2011, 08:33:23 PM »
Ya'll just remember. Seeing an own to the native americans was/is a sign of death. I love to see them on the rare chance I do. But be sure to be wary and respectful.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Hefe fermentation temp...62F?
« on: December 09, 2011, 11:38:58 AM »

I also like to pitch at 56 and ramp up to 62 in the first day.  Produces great balance for my taste buds.  I wouldnt go higher than 65 unless you like a banana bomb. Get closer to 70 and youre gona get bubblegum...ick, but thats just me!

If youre doing all grain, I also strongly recommend a rest at 111 for 20 minutes.  It really helps bring out the subtle nuances of hefe yeast.


The Pub / Re: I need a sword...
« on: December 09, 2011, 07:41:33 AM »
now this is a pizza thread? 

awesome.  I would like a pan dish pizza, with turtles on half, with brisket on the other half, some rib meat piled up all over, a pitcher of belgium tripel, and some fried mushrooms.  Deliver that in 30 minutes or I'll start shooting. 

Now that's a meal! Swap the Belgian for a pale ale. And not to mention the 30 minute shooting, it would also be free! Can you think of a better meal?
Only if the pizza crust were made of bacon, instead of dough.

This man may be a genius!

Beer Recipes / Re: Sweetwater420 clone
« on: December 08, 2011, 08:47:42 PM »
A 60 minute addition is for bittering only. You will not get very much flavor and even less aroma if you go all 60 min. My guess is that beer uses a small 60 minute addition, a moderate amount of hops around the 20 minute and then additions at 10 and flame out. Cascade would be a good choice, or Centennial or a blend of both. I personally think they use hop extracts, but you should still be able to come up with a decent close.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: plastic fermenter
« on: December 08, 2011, 10:26:08 AM »
I agree that buckets can last a very long time. The only real concer is reusing yeast from previous fermentations. If the bucket has even minor scratches you could possibly be contaminating the next generation more that had you used a new bucket. And ofcourse flies carry all kinds of nasty things you would never want anywhere near your beer. But if you are not repot hing yeast it may not be an issue.

Personally my buckets always got so beat up I'd replace them every several months just to be sure.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cold crashing a Schwartz
« on: December 08, 2011, 06:08:53 AM »
There's two different ways to handle a lager. One is to slowly drop the temp down to ensure the yeast are still working (2 degrees per day as you mentioned) and cleaning up yeast by products and finishing attenuation, the other is to warm the beer up to the high 50s and hold to clean up yeast byproducts and be sure attenuation is reached. The latter is by far the easier and most full proof method IME. In the latter you let the beer completely finish fermentin and then you can just cold crash it down to 32 degrees without having to worry about slowly dropping the temp.

In your case I would take a gravity reading to be sure be is done and to also taste it. If the gravity reading where you want it and the flavor is where you want it you can probably just drop the temp down. If not you may actually want to warm the fermentation up and perhaps rouse the yeast.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: plastic fermenter
« on: December 08, 2011, 05:36:39 AM »
You really need to take extra special care of plastic fermenters. If its a cheap bucket I would consider just throwing it out and buying another considering the condition you said it was in (what with dead flies and all). If it is a plastic conical or something you spent some money on I would try to salvage it but take all the fittings apart and be sure to clean every thing carefully.

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