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Messages - majorvices

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5986
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast vile highly carbonated
« on: May 10, 2011, 08:57:57 AM »
You should actually never make a starter with dry yeast because the glycogen in the cell walls are already built up and making a starter make cause the yeast to deplete those reserves, especially considering the cell count in a pack of US-05 is over 2Xs that of a vial, maybe much more if the vial is old. Just sprinkle on top of work or, for best bet, rehydrate in 90 degree warm water.

Also, I always sanitize the vial and/or smack pack before opening so that if any sprays on the outside and drips into my starter wort it won't carry a contamination in with it.

5987
I agree, a huge vortex is not needed. The main problem being it becomes much easier to throw the stir bar.

5988

zorch,
I used to  shake and pitch at high kruesen, 8-12hrs.
So 24hrs is too short for good build up on a stirplate?  What do you do? Pitch a whole 2L starter at onceafter 24 hrs or wait 4-7days to fully ferment out. 

Somewhere I got it into my head that 24-36 hours is good for a stir plate then decant anything over 1 liter because possibility of off-flavors - cold crash to decant.  If the time is too short that would explain the low attenuation. 

What do you guys suggest?

majorvices,

Starter is 1.038 OG


You should be running you stir plate until the fermentation is completely finished and then cold crashing and decanting the spent starter beer on top. If you are pitching at high krausen you are not taking full advantage of cell growth. Also, it may only take 24 hours or it may take 48. I usually give myself 2 or 3 days to be sure and to provide time to cold crash.

5989
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast vile highly carbonated
« on: May 10, 2011, 04:50:51 AM »
Agree with the others, it was most likely fine. In fact, I contacted WY about this once and they said sometimes when they do a run of filling their packs they sometimes get some yeast in the packets that is still slightly active. I assume that WL experiences the same thing. And, FWIW, I have had many vials that did this. Regardless, I suggest always making a starter.

5990
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vote! Only hours left!
« on: May 10, 2011, 04:47:47 AM »
Ashville is about 580 mi Southwest and Portland is about 2900 mi west of my house. I have them on my list of beertowns to hit. I think I'll be traveling south later this year to visit my daughter in Florida and Ashville is in the crosshairs. I've heard so much about this fine beer town.

Asheville on the way down and Huntsville on the way up?  ;)

5991
The Pub / Re: I'm not much for guns, BUT....
« on: May 09, 2011, 01:03:25 PM »
That'll keep away the rif raf... ;)

5992
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vote! Only hours left!
« on: May 09, 2011, 11:42:05 AM »
Maybe if everyone inn Portland would put down the dewbage and log on to vote they'd win every once in a while. :P

5993
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vote! Only hours left!
« on: May 09, 2011, 10:42:26 AM »
Denny, Asheville is a great town and it's kinda like the Portland of the East in some ways. Lots of laid back people, very much an art town. Great hiking and beautiful backdrop for beer and food. One of my favorite places to go on the east coast.

5994
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vote! Only hours left!
« on: May 09, 2011, 09:46:20 AM »
Cool! I just voted for Asheville. Thanks for the heads up! ;D

Just curious, since I've never heard of Asheville as a beer center....why did you vote for them?

Asheville is a great beer town. But I didn't really vote at all. Just pulling chains for grins. My own, mostly. :P

5995
Ingredients / Re: Ginseng
« on: May 09, 2011, 08:18:15 AM »
I dunno, but if it helps me to remember WTF I said last night I'm going to start brewing with it all the time.  ;D

5996
Ingredients / Re: Jack Danials Oak Barrel woodchip aging
« on: May 09, 2011, 08:16:03 AM »
there's no real need. you won't overdue the whisky character. most of the character of Tenn. Whiskey and bourbon actually comes from the wood anyway. remember also the amount of whiskey still on the chips will be barely enough to matter. your talking a tsp or less.

5997
Ingredients / Re: Jack Danials Oak Barrel woodchip aging
« on: May 09, 2011, 07:47:06 AM »
Yeah, 2-3 oz is about right. RoT is 2 oZ per 5 gallons, generally. If the chips are small you will need to taste it every week. It may only take 2 weeks aging. You can re-toast the chips, but my feeling it that may change the character of the wood. Soaking is a better option IMO.

5998
Ingredients / Re: Jack Danials Oak Barrel woodchip aging
« on: May 09, 2011, 07:18:56 AM »
I'd recommend letting them soak in some bourbon or JD for a couple weeks before using to sanitize them. The larger the chips the longer it will take to age them to allow the wood flavor to pass into the beer.

5999
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Coopers Stout kit w/ coffee?
« on: May 09, 2011, 04:37:46 AM »

2. ....I would rather not use white sugar in my brewing, as I hear it leaves a bitter/cidery taste to the beer...

 This is a myth promulgated by the paranoid OCD's of the brewing world. You would have to ad a huge amount, like 50% of the fermentables for this to happen, if then. Don't fear the foam, don't fear the cane sugar.

 The dry malt would work as well but won't ferment 100% and will leave you with a higher finished gravity. Stick to the recipe.

I agree its a myth, but I also would disagree to use sugar in a stout for the most part. You'll get better results subbing out some light DME. You might sub out a little of the DME (maybe 5% of total fermentables) to assure proper attenuation.

6000
 

Use Mister Malty calculator for starter size, light DME, 1/8 tsp of nutrient, foil on the top, stirplate vortex about 1.5 in wide and 1in deep, good yeast movement.  On stirplate for 24hrs, then into frig over night, pulled out and decanted a few hours before pitching.



What OG starter are you using?

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