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Messages - majorvices

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61
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: "Live and Let (Free) Rise"
« on: May 20, 2017, 07:30:35 AM »
I've been playing around with Kviek (Norwegian farm house yeast) at ambient temps, this time of the year 80s and 90s. Tasting out of the fermentor it is very interesting (in a good way). I am planning on carbbing some up next week.

62
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing Tips and Gadgets thread
« on: May 20, 2017, 07:26:52 AM »
It's always a good idea to recycle your chilling water from your heat exchanger for clean up. The first several gallons will be hot water too! If you are doing multiple batches in a row your heat-exchanged water is great for doughing in the second batch because it will already be warmer than tap.

63
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step mashing timing
« on: May 20, 2017, 07:24:36 AM »
I am another fan of step mashes, especially for Belgian beers.  They just seem a little more complex, not too dry, not underattenuated, just right.

I like this one posted earlier in this thread:



I would combine the 144 and 148 into one rest, and skip the 170 mashout (I batch sparge and the sparge will take care of the 170 mashout).

OTOH my Belgian Trpel, which has won several awards, is brewed with a simple 148 - 45 minute mash (I do step it up to 156-158 for 10 minutes before vorlauf) and I get beautiful lacing, long lasting head retention and 90+ AA%.

I like step mashing, so don't get me wrong. It is a great tool. But I can get great results from a single or 2 step mash. Of course, being a mostly "infusion" based brewer I don't find it easy to step mash. If it were easier I'd do a lot more of it just "because".

64
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing Tips and Gadgets thread
« on: May 20, 2017, 05:53:21 AM »
Does the food saver vacuum sealer work on Mylar bags? I wasn't sure. Anyway, I want to get a food saver mostly for doing sous vide, but dang they are expensive!

65
General Homebrew Discussion / Brewing Tips and Gadgets thread
« on: May 20, 2017, 05:10:32 AM »
Thought it was a bout time we started one of these again to share some stuff we may have picked up but haven't thought about sharing.

One of the coolest things I found recently is a hair straightener - it is kind of like the opposite of a curling iron but looks almost identical. Costs about $15. They work great for sealing mylar hop bags. I purge with Co2 first, then use the hair straightener to seal the bag. Works almost instantaneously. It also works when you accidentally break a Wyeast smack pack. Seals it right up!

By purging and sealing I have kept opened hops still usable for over a year in mylar bags!

66
This is a case of homebrewers "over doing" it. I use 3 bright tanks and they all share different beers and the carb stones only get "thoroughly" cleaned about once a quarter. The tanks themselves are simply cleaned under pressure, not completely broken apart, except for once a quarter. This allows me to keep the DO at a minimum in the BBTs because the tanks are simply acid looped, then sani looped under the pressure of Co2. I'm much more concerned about the effects of O2 as opposed to the very minor risk of cross contamination at this point in the process.

So, as long as you aren't using it on sour beers it will be fine. If a few cells of Belgian yeast cross contaminate your already finished German helles they really aren't going to have much work to do and will remain dormant.

I would use the stone, sanitize it afterward, then store it dry (maybe in a zip lock bag). Perhaps boil it after every 10-20 uses.

67
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step mashing timing
« on: May 18, 2017, 05:31:51 PM »
Let's not forget.  Each and every one of us is a moron to somebody.   8)

Only to my wife

68
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oak Aging
« on: May 18, 2017, 08:13:45 AM »
Dang. I was hoping it would be simpler than that.

I may be wrong. I read the book a year or two ago I'll see if I can double check that info tonight.

69
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oak Aging
« on: May 18, 2017, 04:13:56 AM »
I believe it is a lot more complex than just seasoned toasted oak. The wood needs to be cured. It can take months to years. If you ever visit a bbl yard they stack these staves several stories high in the sun and spray them down with water off and on for months. There is a book called "Wood and Beer" that I think covers some of the basics on seasoning the wood for barrels. you might look there first.

https://www.brewerspublications.com/books/wood_and_beer/

70
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I can make some delicious wort
« on: May 17, 2017, 03:55:12 AM »
Do you ferment in a plastic bucket?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I ferment in a plastic big mouth bubbler.

Does it have a valve on it?

71
Ingredients / Re: Synergy Pils Malt (Briess)
« on: May 16, 2017, 03:34:55 AM »
Anyone have experience with Briess synergy Pils malt? I'm thinking about ordering a sack, along with some Vienna.

http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_SynergySelectPilsen.pdf

From Briess:
Synergy Select Pilsen Malt
Lovibond 1.8
Balance malty flavor with
subtle honey, bready and
cracker notes
DP 100. True European-style Pilsen Malt rich in flavor, high in extract and low in protein with moderate enzymes and FAN. Made from hand picked Synergy Barley grown in the flood-irrigated, semi-arid plains of the Bighorn Basin in Northern Wyoming.

I have not but I'll throw a sack on my next order and give it a try. Sounds interesting.

72
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I can make some delicious wort
« on: May 14, 2017, 06:24:50 AM »
Agree with Sean, sounds like a possible contamination issue. Though it could still also be an oxygen issue. Both would get progressively worse with time. Are you purging your kegs before racking?

Bring a small sealable container by the brewery and I'll give you some peracedic. Just don't get any full strength concentration on you.

73
Equipment and Software / Re: Input on corking a Belgian
« on: May 13, 2017, 08:16:32 AM »
I have the Italian Floor corker like this one

https://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-floor-corker?gdffi=aa92829c2cf847b6a646261bd5b23c06&gdfms=0B0FEDF510BF4F66A2FE43BDD7D9A04E&gclid=CjwKEAjw3drIBRCOwfC-_qqyjQ8SJADvoWQp2FLDxj6Y9SeBbQxKb1iODZ7tOJHEwBVNI-Dqgi-PtRoC4Jjw_wcB

I've had it for about 15 years. Works like a champ. Works well with the Belgian style magnum "mushroom" corks.

74
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Overpitching - Does it matter?
« on: May 13, 2017, 04:51:05 AM »
I have to admit I brew homebrew sized batches (for fun and for experiments and for a special "club" we host once a month at the brewery) about 4 times a week, if not more. I almost never make a starter unless the yeast is not fresh. I pull fresh yeast directly from 60 bbl conical fermentor into plastic measuring cups and "guestimate" how much feels right. I'll swirl around the slurry in the bottom of a carboy and pour a bit of yeast directly into another carboy using intuition on my "pitching rate". I haven't had a bad batch in a long time.

OTOH I have brewed for over 20 years and I have brewed well over 1,500 batches just in the last 6 years so I have a pretty good "feel" on what works and what doesn't. For new brewers, the pitching rate guidelines are not a bad idea to use. I don't think you will ruin a batch, necessarily, by pitching directly on a yeast cake or over or under pitching. But I still think it is  a much better idea to get as close as you can to pitching the right amount of yeast. But, as I can attest, seat of the pants intuition works. Especially if you have the experience under your belt to guide you.

75
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I can make some delicious wort
« on: May 13, 2017, 04:23:06 AM »
Weird that 029 is throwing diacetyl for you. Are you picking the diacetyl up straight from the fermentor or after racking? Oxidizing after racking or packaging is a huge factor in diacetyl in finished beers.

Swing by the brewery and I'll give you a pint of peracedic acid. In exchange for some diacetyl free homerew. ;)

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