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Messages - majorvices

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Beer Recipes / Re: First Recipe Help
« on: July 06, 2011, 07:44:36 AM »
I can attest that 1.5-2lbs of Roasted Barley makes the cut. You really want a substantial roasted character. I can also attest that I have had stouts made with Black Patent that were very good, so a RIS made with Black Patent could make the cut. Perhaps 2 lbs is pushing the envelope - but I don't think 1.5 lbs would be. My .02.

I was referring more to the canister's efficiency in stripping out chloramine.  I'm not worried about the rest.

Unless you trickle the water through the canister extremely slowly, it's basically buying you nothing.  Campden tabs are cheap.

If that were the case, then an in-line canister filter for home (like the ones found attached to a well filtration system) are useless too.  Not trying to be argumentative, I'm just trying to understand the effectiveness of a active charcoal canister filter.

If I understand correctly, the pressure from a well averages around 40 psi and from city water it can be anywhere from 40 psi to 70 psi.  So any implementation of an active charcoal canister filter in either of these scenarios is pointless.  If so, what is the maximum pressure rating for a active charcoal canister filter?  If GPM is a better way to rate it, let me know.

Yeah, I don't buy that the filters don't work. I basically use two house hold filters in conjuunction at my brewery and had the water tested and had 0 ppms of chlorine - and the city water here is not only full of chlorine but dirt and sediment as well. I'm in the process of putting a 3 stage filtration system at teh brewery, but I can assure anyone that the charcoal filters work. How many pro-breweries do you really think are treating their water with campden tablets? For me, charcoal filters are not only cheap but far easier that screwing around the day before your brew with campden tablets.

Ingredients / Re: Infused sugars?
« on: July 05, 2011, 09:07:18 PM »
No. I even have a 13 year old and I still didn't get it.

Ingredients / Re: Infused sugars?
« on: July 05, 2011, 08:53:30 PM »
I'm gonna try it on a beer here soon. I think it is an interesting idea. Might not do a damn thing but it might just bond on a molecular level and make an outstanding beer.

EHalls 3,2,1 nonsense be bloody damned. WTF was that for?  I noticed there was not enough courage to mount an explanation. Too bad... Kind of weak.  ;)

Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe advice.
« on: July 05, 2011, 08:40:25 PM »
Understand what you are using each ingredient for. For instance: You would use sugar to dry the beer out, but then you have cara pils malt, which is for adding body. Do you want the beer dry? Or are you trying to add body? You should probably drop one or the other.

As far as hops go: You look like you are focusing on bittterness more than hop flavor/aroma. Is that what you want? If not, move some of the hops to the end of the boil.

If you don't explain what style you are going for you do not communicate properly what you are trying to accomplish. That's really what makes styles important.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Opinions on aeration system
« on: July 05, 2011, 03:27:18 PM »
The other thing you are not considering with the pumped air option is that there is a not a viable way to adjust how much air is being pumped. So while you leave the pump on the wort continues to bubble and bubble and bubble and you end up witha  huge mess of foam on your hand. You need to leave the pump running for at least 20 minutes so it becomes quite a PITA.

With an o2 tank you can adjust the flow (you only want the slightest trickle) and 2-4 minutes is all you will even need at most, as opposed to 20-40 minutes with an aquarium pump.

Also, while it make cost a small chunk of change up frontm I recommend visiting you local welding shop and looking to how much it would cost you to lease or buy a tank. One tank will last you years and the regulator will work better than the thing that works on the disposable tanks.

First glance I'm tempted to say yeast, but the blue dots inside the white "islands" makes me question if it is mold, or just the poor picture quality. I've seen little white islands of yeast flocculate and float on top of the beer before. My suggestion is to hold it for a while and see if it grows. If it does, that's a bad sign. If it stays the same or the islands fall out then I would feel safe.

BTW: You are probably better off not using a secondary if you are going to allow that much head space.

Beer Recipes / Re: First Recipe Help
« on: July 05, 2011, 07:38:59 AM »
If its a 1.090+ beer, sure! Ya'll go look at JZ's recipe for RIS and see how much roasted malt he uses. IMO the "black patent is harsh and ashy" thing is a myth. I would agree that it is just about on the line of being over the top, but I wouldn't use less than 1.5 lbs.

That said, like I said above, Roasted Barley is more traditional. Might be a better choice.

There are several problems that we have seen with garden hoses hooked up to standard filter housings. Sanitary issues, flow rates higher than  the filter cartridge can handle, and bleed by.  The proper flow is very important for good contact time with any filter media. As for the sanitary issues regarding GAC and or carbon block if not handled properly bacteria could be an issue. We always wear gloves when working with filters of any type.We also clean and sanitize the filter housings. Just these small steps can make a big difference.

Just no need to sanitize pre boil. Maybe you would want to refrain fro drinking the water, but preboil brew water would be of no concern,

Beer Recipes / Re: First Recipe Help
« on: July 05, 2011, 07:14:27 AM »
I disagree that you would want to use carafa for this recipe. You want a good amount of roasted malt character for a RIS. I also don't mind the Black Patent over the Roasted Barley (though RB is more traditional for a stout). I could go either way with that. Personally  I think you are on the right track and you could keep the grain bill as is (though a darker crystal malt is not a bad suggestion).

The only question I have is: do you think your OG:BU ratio is dialed in? I think your need more bittering hops. I'd go with a high alpha acid hop for the 60 min. addition and save the cascade for the finish. What IBU are you looking at?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Such a thing as over-pitching?
« on: July 04, 2011, 10:36:21 AM »
Just to add the flipsyde, when I tried this very technique about 5 years ago the effect was like removing half the yeast. The fermenttaion started off fine but slowed to a crawl and never really finished. It was on an Imperial Pilsner. I was too scared to try again.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Small Batch Test Brewing
« on: July 04, 2011, 09:18:44 AM »
I recall an episode of Basic Brewing Radio where the guy gives some really good tips on small, 1 gallon, test batches. IIRC there was an article in BYO by the same author. I'm too lazy to search right now but I bet you could find it on the Basic Brewing Website.

That said, 5 gallons is a small batch already. thought I put that out there.  ;)

Ingredients / Re: Infused sugars?
« on: July 03, 2011, 05:40:15 PM »
1, 2, 3... not it.

^ ^ ^ 3, 2, 1 .... not making any sense. Try again.

Ingredients / Re: Infused sugars?
« on: July 03, 2011, 04:59:06 PM »
Very interesting idea! I imagine you would want to add a lot of spice per sugar. Someone should try that.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Tell me about Kolsch please
« on: July 03, 2011, 02:18:17 PM »
distilled water is supposed to be at 7, but I have had it read lower than this before, so I dunno. the ColorpHast strips work "ok". I use them in case I break my probe or my batter goes dead. You can get a decent bench type pH meter for around 60 bucks. Worth in IMO.

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