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Messages - majorvices

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8881
All Grain Brewing / Re: a black ipa... how does this look?
« on: January 14, 2010, 10:16:00 PM »
This fascination is the conundrum - how can you have something that is Black and Pale?  ;) (sorry all of you that have heard me blab about this before. )

8882
All Grain Brewing / Re: a black ipa... how does this look?
« on: January 14, 2010, 09:57:38 PM »
South - here's a look at my IPA.

House IPA

12 gallons
OG 1.065 - 1.068
BU ~70

12 lbs Pils Malt
12 lbs Maris Otter
2 lbs Wheat
2 llbs cara vienne

1oz Magnum (14) @ 60
1oz Columbus (14) @ 20
2 oz Columbus (14) @ 10
2 oz Centennial (10.5) @ 10
2 oz Columbus @ 2
2 oz Centennial @ 2

US-05

8883
All Grain Brewing / Re: a black ipa... how does this look?
« on: January 14, 2010, 08:56:54 PM »
Agree with blatz on the bitterness - most of my American IPAs get the majority of their BUs after the 20 minute mark. For my 70 BU IPA I only put in ~22 BUs at the 60 min mark.

8884
All Grain Brewing / Re: a black ipa... how does this look?
« on: January 14, 2010, 06:35:22 PM »
I would also cut the crystal in half. Not sure if the oats will do much, but might lend some mouthfeel... On the topic of Black IPAs, does anyone have a recipe for a Pale Stout?  ;) j/k

8885
Count me in a as a dip tube cutter as well (I have 4 or 5 cornies with shortened tubes used for bright tanks). Though, on beers I am not particularly concerned about clarity with I don't bother using a bright tank (or secondary for that matter) and just blow the first couple of pints as cloudy, Of course, I drink 'em. Its good for you.  ;)

8886
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: US-05 Yeast
« on: January 14, 2010, 04:37:49 PM »
Quote
I brewed a blonde ale 11 days ago and pitched two packages of the yeast after rehydrating in a half cup starter. The thing kicked off extremely fast. I had full fermentation within 12 hours or less

first off, when you say you "rehydrated in a starter" - you didn't really make a starter did you? All you really need to do is sprinkle the yeast on the beer and give a swirl, though rehydrating in 80-90 degree water can help insure closer to 100% viability (but as much as you pithed that was certainly not necessary.) Regardless, any form of starter for dry yeast can actually be detrimental.

Also, 12 hours??? What temp did you pitch and ferment? I pitch US-05 fairly cool (low 60s, high 50s sometimes) nd keep very cool fermentation temps. I use it regularly and for me this is a slower fermenting strain. Overpitching and pitching warm can certainly accelerate fermentation - but 12 hours is crazy short. As you probably know an extremely short fermentation does not necessarily make the best tasting beer.

Also, I am planning a brew in my conical with US-05 and I plan on harvesting it for the first time, simply because it has started to get kind of expensive - I used to be able to get it for 2 bucks a pack. Now it is nearly 4 (or more depending your retail location). I don't anticipate any issues with it. I certainly would not go on an entire yeast cake with a low gravity beer though - you only need 1/4 of the slurry for a 1.050 beer.

8887
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Complete Fermentation
« on: January 14, 2010, 12:34:27 PM »
It is totally safe to pop the stopper off the carboy or crack the bucket lid from time to time. When using carboys, just be sure to sanitize the opening with a few sprays of Star San on a paper towel.

That said, you really shouldn't need to take a lot of gravity readings. I normally take 2 readings, one when I am running off into the carboys and one before I run off into the kegs.

If you have strong fermentation techniques, meaning you 1) pitch enough healthy yeast (for liquid yeast you must pitch starters - see http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html for more info.), 2) aerate well (if you shake the carboy make sure you shake it off and on for about 20-30 minutes), 3) and control fermentation temps (never pitch warmer than 70 degrees, never let the fermentation get over 68-70 for most ales, never let the temp crash much more than 2 degrees in 24 hours, be aware that fermentation generates as much as 4-6+ degrees of heat over ambient at high krausen) - you usually should have no problem hotting your FG within 1 - 2 weeks. Temperature and amount of healthy yeast are extremely important, if you pitch too warm and the temp spikes and then crashes you could stall fermentation (not to mention off flavors from warm fermentation temp).

Also, in some cases some yeasts tend to flocculate and drop out early, especially English ale yeast. Often times this happens with about 4-6 points left to go. In this case you usually simply need to rouse the yeast with a sanitized racking cane and maybe bump the temp up a couple degrees, and usually it will finish.

8888
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: stuff I'm finding under the microscope
« on: January 14, 2010, 12:27:44 AM »

I am convinced that it was a large yeast cell.

Or, possibly a small dog....

8889
+2 - in fact, if you really want to get serious about beer I recommend kegs.  ;)

8890
No worries, re-reading, that post came off sounding grumpier than my intention. First cup of coffee and all.  ;) I'm all for a thread evolving in any direction as long as it is helpful.

8891
All Grain Brewing / Re: Kolsch - Protein Rest or Not ?
« on: January 13, 2010, 01:11:08 PM »
I've never used the malt before but I highly doubt it needs a protein rest. Very, very few malts available to homebrewers need protein rests. Perhaps if it is 6 row it would need it - but if it is 2 row you should be fine with a single infusion.

8892
Guys, the beer was in the chest freezer for probably 2-4 weeks without water in the airlock. The beer was completely flat when I tranferred it - no dissolved Co2. I don't know what else I can say. If beer is that stable that it can go weeks with no protection from the outside air then there is simply no reason to use airlocks at all!

Sure, a few days, I am positive it wouold be no problem. I have had kegs that were not carbbed lose pressure and I never had an issue. But, for heaven's sake I have been brewing this recipe (or a close proximity thereof) for 15 years or so and I think I can taste oxidation when I run across it. Lordy mercy - you guys need to leave your beer in the primary for an extra 4 weeks (probably 6 total) without an airlock it you feel so damn confindent it is not an issue.  ::)

8893
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ingredients
« on: January 13, 2010, 02:00:48 AM »
Sorry, I never brewed one. I assume you are talking about a Wit. What about a kit from either Northern Brewer or More Beer?

8894
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: belgian dubble
« on: January 12, 2010, 10:12:02 PM »
I love WLP530 for my dubbel as well. Pitch around 64-66 and ferment in the high 60s, low 70s.

8895
Assuming I did the math / science right...  and it's been a while so I could be wrong.

If your secondary carboy is filled with 4.75 gal of beer and .25 gal of CO2 then you will lose 10.35 teaspoons of CO2 volume in the headspace and 3 teaspoons of beer volume (neglecting alcohol content and assuming a drop from 60F to 32F).

This is just over a quarter of a cup.  Is that enough air going in to oxidize the beer (assuming your airlock doesn't dry out completely as major's did).

What else am I missing in my logic?  More gas is dissovled at lower temps?  Do you take the whole carboy volume into consideration for CO2 and not just the headspace?

I don't get it either... regardless, the CO2 is heavier (creating a blanket) than the small amount of air that could possibly have entered the carboy so the beer should never have been oxidized in the first place.   ???

That's a myth. Co2 and o2 mix. There is not a co2 blanket once the beer stops producing co2 if there is a way for 02 to get in. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to breath on the earth since co2 would blanket the entire surface right about head level.  ;)

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