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Messages - Thirsty_Monk

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Equipment and Software / Solid bottom brew pots??
« on: June 14, 2019, 11:06:09 PM »
Looking for a source for SS brewing vessels around 20 - 25 gal that do not have tri-clad bottoms. I am working on building a new system that utilizes electric heating elements and I want to weld tri-clamp fittings to the bottom of the pots, so I am pretty sure that the bottoms will need to be solid.
I would advise against having heating elements straight up (if I read your post correctly)

As part of my growing obsession with brewing various Franconian beer styles (Rauchbier, Dunkel, Schwarzbier, Kellerbier, etc.) I have purchased a German gravity keg.

Unlike English casks, which are relatively popular in the US and are sold through US retailers, this was the only model I could find that didn't require importing a keg from Germany, the Schaefer Party Keg, sold by the North American division of a German keg maker:

As you can see, the beauty of this model is the "Bavarian bunghole" for "bayerischer Anstich" or a gravity pour.

It is 20 liters (5.3 gallons) and the standard option for the North American market is the Sanke D fitting on top.  This is where my questions begin. I know you can remove the spear and fill the keg that way (and that is probably how I will clean it), but for closed transfers you need to go in through the spear.  I bought a coupler (this one: and these Sanke to ball lock converters (

The question is this, if I have the ball lock converters in place, do I need the plastic check valve on the gas in and the ball on the line out?

My basic goal is "real lager" (the lager version of real ale, AKA traditional naturally carbonated lager). I plan to do a closed transfer  when the beer is mostly done fermenting out of my Speidel fermenter into the keg through beer out port and then attach a spunding valve to the gas in port so it can naturally carbonate while it finishes fermenting.

I'm pretty sure the check valve will prevent the excess pressure from release out through the spunding valve so I think that has to be removed.  And I think the ball in the beer out line will prevent me from pushing the beer into the keg. If I have the ball lock adapters on, my intuition is that I don't ever need the check valve or ball (it's not like corny kegs need either of those things).  Can anyone think of a reason why I might need them?

When it comes to serving, I'm gonna follow these instructions:

The keg comes with an air inlet valve for venting the keg (which you can also do with the coupler, but that won't look as cool).

If anyone wants to see it in person I will be serving a Kellerbier at NHC in Providence in a month, either at club night or maybe during the social hour that my club has signed up for. Hope it works as I won't have time for a test beer before then.  Wish me luck!

In Sankey D gas check valve is to prevent beer to spill into the gas line and check ball in beer out is to stop beer in line to leaking out and making mess in the cooler.

If you want to fill your keg with that coupler you have to remove the ball from beer out and if you want to put a spunding valve you also have to remove the gas check valve.

If you buy keg filling coupler they will come without check valve or ball.

Going Pro / Re: We are looking for someone to join our team!
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:53:40 AM »
Have you tried posting on Indeed in your search for help? It worked for me this month. FWIW.
Marc, you are still around. Good to see you.

Homebrewer Bios / Re: Rest In Peace, babalu87
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:38:19 AM »
Thank you for letting us know.

The Pub / Re: your favorite commercial Pilsner
« on: April 22, 2019, 03:08:37 AM »
I think best fresh Pilsner you can get is Bohemian Pilsner from Lazy Monk Brewing.

Just saying.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New Tap Handles
« on: August 02, 2018, 02:58:23 AM »
They look nice Paul.

General Homebrew Discussion / Why I'm not a big fan of IPA any longer
« on: February 11, 2018, 02:44:54 AM »
At one point in time 2-hearted came in to our market so cheap we could have bought kegs of it, transferred it to our kegs and sold it, and it would have been cheaper than making our IPA. Maybe there's a little hyperbole going on in this sentiment .... but not much.
Now that is a good idea how to make more beer

Equipment and Software / Re: Cost of cans?
« on: February 09, 2018, 12:06:26 AM »
I'm looking at getting one of the all american can seamers, they run about $875 for the 12 & 16 oz can flywheel version. Just trying to see how this all pans out longterm.
Or from here.

Equipment and Software / Cost of cans?
« on: February 08, 2018, 11:49:49 PM »
I'm looking at getting one of the all american can seamers, they run about $875 for the 12 & 16 oz can flywheel version. Just trying to see how this all pans out longterm.
I think you are best off if you get your cans from local brewery with lids/ends. Then apply full body label to overlay the graphics for your graphics (not that I would be suggesting anything).

With your low qtys, freight would kill the deal.

All Grain Brewing / Re: How is Munich malt made?
« on: February 08, 2018, 03:04:22 AM »

EDIT  In the article, Narziss complains that modern Dunkels often have far too strong a roast malt flavor!

I agree, Schwarz should have roast, dunkel should not IMO. My personal Dunkel does not contain roast. Sinamar only, which with a soft boil, lends the perfect amount of roast flavor..
Careful with Sinamar. If you use too much, it will taste like ash tray.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: How is Munich malt made?
« on: February 08, 2018, 03:02:54 AM »
Yeah, I love the taste of Munich but it only has a diastatic power of 40-50 Lintner depending on which kind you get. Adding a bit of highly modified malt will help your conversion a lot.
40-50 linter is about what British pale ale malt has, 35 is plenty to convert a mash. Moreover, it has been 50+ years since you could find a Munich with  questionable enzymes (note conversion times on spec sheets are in line with other base malts), just like Pils that needs a protein rest; these are myths perpetuated in the homebrew community. Decoction is almost a unicorn even with Dunkels, but would be the only place Pils would be appropriate; not for the enzyme package with available malts, but to LIGHTEN the color and flavor.  So for homebrewers, the takeaway is, go Munich and color and have no fear!

EDIT  Jeff, I wonder if the brewer you talked to was also influenced by tradition more than the current state of materials?

He is a degreed brewer. His brewery is known for a Dunkel. I have been under the impression that traditional Dunkels were all dark Munich and decocted, if you go back far enough, before Pils malt.

There is a 19th century Dunkel recipe in the Jan-Feb 2018 New Brewer that uses:

45.5 % Munich
35% Vienna
10% CaraMunich I
8% Weyermann Special W
1.5% Carafa Special I

Traditional or modern? The article as authored by Horst Dornbusch and Thomas Kraus-Weyermann. That last guy might be the authority. I still need to look up Special W.
Special W is something like Special B. One is Weyernmann and the other is Castle.

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Equipment and Software / Re: Cost of cans?
« on: February 08, 2018, 02:53:12 AM »
I think smallest qty you can buy is one pallet per shrink sleeve cans. Just a question. Where are you going to seam those cans?

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Going Pro / Best way to find Brewmaster for startup brewpub
« on: January 30, 2018, 05:40:06 PM »
Restaurant business is the whole different thing. So I wonder how other people are doing it. I do not want to get to the restaurant business but I still want to have food in here. And food truck are not cutting it.

Going Pro / Re: Best way to find Brewmaster for startup brewpub
« on: January 29, 2018, 03:02:17 AM »
Renting a kitchen is an interesting idea but how do you divide who is responsible for what? Who employs servers? You or the kitchen? Could you share on your arraignment?

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation
« on: December 26, 2017, 04:16:19 PM »
The o2 permeability of steel is zero. But it’s not that easy either.

While metal has virtually zero permeability, its the sealing material or coating between the cap and bottle or can and lid that admits oxygen. Bryan mentions 7 ppb/day through a crown seal, but I'd be surprised if the juncture between can and lid has zero oxygen permeability. When you look at it, the surface area between can and lid is actually much larger than bottle and cap. Dependent upon the oxygen permeability of the can's coating, the oxygen ingress is probably not zero. Not being a can expert, I don't know what that answer is. But let's not stick our head in the sand on this issue.

I am not aware of a number but cans use a “2 fold seal” that is far superior than a crimp.    Everywhere I have seen say zero permeability for can seam ingress.

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There is another thing that can lids/ends have caulk like sealer in the seam area. This caulk/sealer is double folded into the double seam to ensure 100% seal.

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