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Messages - Thirsty_Monk

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Tomorrow I will brew 165 gal of Bohemian Dark Lager.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Plastic 30L kegs
« on: July 19, 2011, 08:03:16 PM »
Are these "One Way" kegs?
I have seen them recently.
They have regular coupler but I have not used them.

I am using Plastic Kegs that look like SS kegs and you clean them just like SS kegs.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Home Glycol system
« on: July 19, 2011, 07:56:10 PM »
I know conversation moved on but you could use a beer pump to deliver beer longer distances without overcarbonating beer.

Beer pump meaning beer engine?
He's talking about an electric pump.  Some brewpubs use them instead of CO2 to push beer when the serving tank is a good distance from the tap.

Ah, hrm. If I were doing a real bar, yeah, why not - but I'd be worried about the pump getting sticky because I'd only be pulling a pint or two per day.
I do not think it will get sticky.
Your beer line inside does not get sticky.
May be better solution for you is to have bigger ID beer lines.

not sure what you are seeing there. There are federal labeling laws for SEALED containers but it says that a growler filled to order is treated like a large glass thus no labeling requirements

Right, so this would work for breweries *if* they fill growlers exclusively at the time or purchase, but it still wouldn't allow anyone to fill another brewery's growler.
I fill growlers in advance and then distribute them to the stores.
I will not fill someone else growler.
This would be like Sam Adams filling Sierra Nevada's bottles.

This might be a different story in the brewpub where they fill on demand.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: High Gravity fast fermentation?
« on: July 17, 2011, 04:53:41 PM »

What is your average fermentation to keg/bottle time?

The average is ~14 days for an ale, 6 weeks for a lager (4 weeks at <40°F). That's assuming there's no secondary fermentation or dry-hopping, either of which would add about a week.

I everything should ferment within 2 weeks (a few days + or -).
If this does not happen then you
1) underpitched
2) have temp swings when fermenting.
Dry-hopping is extra step so add some time for it.

There is no used equipment market out there right now.

How do you figure? There have been five conicals in our size range posted on ProBrewer in the past month.
And probably bought the same day when it was posted.
Just comparing a few years back.
I am shopping for 15 BBL Bright Tank-s.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How often do you check your gravity?
« on: July 17, 2011, 02:36:23 PM »
I am taking reading every day after pitching just to make sure I have fermentation going.

I have been fermenting in plastic conical with threaded fittings for years.
I also have 350 Gal plastic fermenters in the brewery.
Those are fitted with CIP ball for cleaning.

To answer your question. They do work just fine. How do you plan controlling the temperature?

I am in Hawaii.  At elevation 2000 ft. MSL ambient air temp fermentation is no problem year round.  A shaded building with interior walls in the fermentation room should hold steady in the low 70s F.  Maybe a couple of window unit type ACs for hot days.  Lucky thing... residential electricty cost 48 cents per kWh on my last home electric bill.  Commercial power is even higher.  We are going with PV panels ASAP.  The payback period for PV is very short here, especially with the tax credits available.

I remember seeing pictures posted here a few months ago of someone's brewery.  I think they had something to do with the construction of a walk in cooler.  In those pictures I saw ar least one of these MDPE  cylindroconical type of fermenters.  I was hoping that someone who uses them would respond. 

Are there any flavor problems with the first batch(es)?  Do they need curing prior to production?  The spec sheet lists MDPE and HDPE as having "suspected" stress cracking possible with long term exposure to ethanol containing liquids.  Have you seen any of that?

Thank you for responding.  Your input is greatly appreciated!
Most commercial brewers looked down when you mention plastic fermenters (Most of the time these brewers did not foot the bill for SS fermenters). There is no used equipment market out there right now. So compare 10 BBL fully outfitted plastic fermenter $1000 vs. nice 10 BBL SS fermenter $10,000 (I know GW Kent is top of the price range but other importers are not much cheaper).

Get white plastic fermenter. Yellow/Green are not for FDA compliant. Plastic tanks can not be pressurized because of lid design. You would wash CIP them before first/every use. No off flavours at all. What size are you looking at?

Finally one day I would LOVE to have SS fermenter.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Home Glycol system
« on: July 17, 2011, 09:52:32 AM »
I know conversation moved on but you could use a beer pump to deliver beer longer distances without overcarbonating beer.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Traditional Bock Rostmalz replacement
« on: July 17, 2011, 09:14:42 AM »
Weyermann CareAroma is 130L.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 7/15
« on: July 16, 2011, 05:59:41 PM »
Just brewed 320 gallons of bohemian pilsner the other day. Double brew and long day. But it is fermenting now.

Is AHA / Brewers Association involve in fixing nonsense that just happened in Wisconsin?

Equipment and Software / Re: pH meter - what else is needed?
« on: July 16, 2011, 07:55:01 AM »
Cool, I have 10 more test strips. I am due to get me a pH meter :)

Looking interesting.

Equipment and Software / Re: Placement of Vent for Condensate Hood
« on: July 16, 2011, 07:53:12 AM »
Just a speculation but if you have enough air flow you should not form condensation.
What fan are you using?
I have 6" pipe and 250 CFM and that is not enough.

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