« on: August 27, 2010, 09:38:37 AM »
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* The keg is inverted while wash solutions are injected under pressure through the
beer ( center ) inlet.
* Rinse water, caustic, sanitizer, steam, etc, is introduced into the keg, via the keg
valve dip tube. It then cascades down the inverted inner surface and is
evacuated through the keg valve CO2 port and finally out the wash-head tap's
side outlet tube.
To Decant or Evacuate a filled Keg:
* When the wash-head coupler is applied to an upright keg, the vessel can be
quickly emptied by injecting air or CO2 pressure via the side inlet and evacuating
via the center (beer) port. Or invert the keg and reverse the connections.
* Using an upright keg, pressure inject product through the center (beer) port,
while applying a lesser amount of back pressure through the gas port. Or invert
the keg and reverse the connections to allow beer to flow into the vessel through
the gas side of the keg valve.
In re "malt conditioning," pay attention to how much water you use--more water is NOT better.
If you overdo the water--you'll end up with rollers that look like corndogs.
Very nice.QuoteThank you for letting a lot of people know about your software.
Just for curiosity
What license did you realized it under?
It's under the GPL license from the Open Source Initiative. More info at: http://www.brewcompetition.com/index.php?page=license
I like TT for a couple of reasons. First, it is only open to AHA members and has been marketed as a perk of membership. There has been talk of a members'-only section of the website but I don't think there is a plan to have one on the forum. If the forum replaces TT and is open to all, how is this a perk for members?
Thank you for letting a lot of people know about your software.
If I may, there is already this type of software freely available to clubs that does most of the requested items above. It's called Brew Competition Online Entry. I created and maintain the code just for this reason.
Please contact me directly with any questions at email@example.com.
QuoteThis is a 2nd generation of WLP830.
That's supposed to be the W34/70 strain, which was George Fix's favorite. If I trust internet sources, it's also supposed to be the same as Wyeast 2124, which is another of my favorites.
I am talking from my own experience.
I'm worried about my beer line now though! I need to get home and dump that star-san out of it.
Any ideas on how to tell if the inside of the line is damaged (assuming I'd rather not have to take it apart)?
By the way, the star-san has been in the beer line for a week now! Is it a lost cause?
Once I mixed it too strong and I had a "fuzzy" hands for a few days.I also use the thick blue "chemical safe" gloves that go up to mid forearm (I got them at HD--I can't remember if they're PVC, or Nitrile, or what) to prevent skin exposure during the equipment dunking and transfer process.
You really think the stuff (at proper ratio) is that bad? I can see with iodophor (fake tan /jk) but I'm surprised with starsan. I figure if I dip a finger in the wort or starter then it's no biggie - I've been sanitized.