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Topics - Dave King

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Equipment and Software / Need a Replacement Valve
« on: May 19, 2016, 04:32:48 PM »
I developed a leak in my CO2 regulator output valve.   The photo doesn't seem to show, if you want to see it, send me an e-mail, at

It has a built in check valve, which is important to keep beer out of the regulator. I've looked around, can't find a source. Anyone out there know of one? Thanks!

General Homebrew Discussion / Stone Tour for Tues. June 9th
« on: May 30, 2015, 07:48:48 PM »
I got nervous and requested a Private Tour of Stone for Tues. June the 9th, at 11 am.  It’s $50 total, for up to 10 people.  I’m looking for people who want to come along, and share the cost.  Interested, or know of others?  We have at least 5 openings now, e-mail me if you're interested.  Thanks, 
    Dave King, BIER

Ingredients / Allergic to Judy's Brown Ale?
« on: November 25, 2014, 08:21:42 PM »
I've been making my Daughter a special Brown Ale, for about 15 years.  She and I adjusted the recipe to just what she wants.  She is allergic to the last batch!  I had some of the previous batch for comparison, and they're just fine, we repeated the comparison, and it's consistent.  Most of the ingredients were identical.  The only thing that appears to be different is the yeast.  I always used Chico yeast, either 1056 or US-05, but on this last batch, I used a repitch of WLP007 English Ale Yeast, from a local BrewPub.  Is it reasonable that this yeast could cause an allergenic reaction?   Anyone have a similar experience?  Thanks!

Beer Recipes / IBU Calculations
« on: November 07, 2014, 10:09:27 PM »
I just lead a "Learn to Homebrew Day" brew, using a Brewers Best Kit for an American Pale Ale, simple, right?

Well, the bitter wort tasted rather extremely bitter for that style, and the directions say O.G. = 1.051 to 1.055, 32 to 36 IBU, which seems lightly bitter, so I put the orginal gravity and hopping schedule into my spread sheet, which uses the Pyle's Hops FAQ, 5/4/95 Rager formulas.   See;

With O.G. = 1.054, 2 oz. of 6.9% AA Cascade at 60 min., and 1 oz. of 12.5% AA Citra at 5 min. left, I get 80 IBU.  Hmm, about what it tastes like, a very bitter IPA, although before fermentation it's hard to tell much by taste.

So I went to and it says 60 IBU, using Tinseth's equations. 
Beersmith says 105 IBU. 
Brew 365, says 60 by Tinseth, 57 by Rager.
Tasty Brew, says 57 IBU by Tinseth.
My old Rager calculation from Pyle's Hops FAQ, 5/4/95 is what I’ve been using for nearly 20 years, and it’s 80 IBU is in the middle, but what a range!  Amazing.  I know IBU calculation is rough, and not very accurate, but the results here are all over the map.  I'd expect the Rager from all sources should be within a couple points at most.  Any idea what's up here?  I think I entered the date correctly in all cases.  Thanks!

Equipment and Software / Vacuum Packer
« on: October 02, 2014, 04:18:27 PM »
When I get 1 lb. packs of hops, I use an old small Food Saver, but lately it takes a long time to cycle, so I’m about ready to replace it, and wonder which model is recommended.  Thanks,

All Grain Brewing / Base Malt Mash Water Chemistry for Imperial Stout
« on: August 26, 2014, 04:02:49 PM »
I'm going to be making an Imperial Stout soon, and I've been doing a 2 step mash, as per Gordon Strong's suggestion, just the base malts for most of the time (~40 min.), and then add the dark malts for the last 15 min. or so.  I'm convinced this helps the dark malt flavors, thanks, Gordon.

I recently tested my water, and am using John Palmer's spread sheet for residual alkalinity and additions calculations.  So my 1st mash is basically the same as for a light colored IPA, little acid added with those malts, but then I want the water to be right for the final beer, which would become much more acidic after the dark malts are added.  Suggestions?  Thanks,

Ingredients / Source for H2SO4
« on: July 10, 2014, 07:35:49 PM »
I'd like to use Sulfuric Acid to correct my tap water, but can't find a source, except Fisher Scientific, super expensive, like $300 for a quart, don't recall exact cost.  I'm in Endicott, NY, near Binghamton, S. of Syracuse.  Thanks,

Equipment and Software / Si Hoses & Camlocks
« on: July 04, 2014, 11:59:15 PM »
I'm about to order a bunch of Camlock QD's and Si hose to upgrade my system with.  1/2" hose and 1/2" npt males look right.  I'm thinking female Camlocks with 1/2" hose barbs, but it looks like that may be somewhat of a flow restriction.  But is it significant?  Should I go to the next larger barb, the 5/8"?  How about hose clamps, just use the usual SS worm drive type?  Thanks!  Brew On!

Kegging and Bottling / Need Big, 15 gal.? Cooler Mash Tun
« on: March 20, 2014, 01:37:09 AM »
I've got a system set up with a 10 gallon rectangular cooler for 6 gallon batch mashing.  My brew kettle is a converted 1/2 keg.  I want to move up from 6 gal. to 10 gal. batches, and I think the brew kettle will be fine, but I need a bigger mash tun.  It's a RIMS system, no need for direct heat, so I'd like to stick with a cooler for a mash tun. 

Any suggestions for a good cooler to buy?  Thanks,

    Dave King, BIER

Ingredients / How to Sanitize Sugar Addition
« on: May 17, 2013, 04:44:27 PM »
I made an American Brown Ale, and forgot to add the brown and cane sugars (1/2 lb. of each).  It's fermenting merrily along, and I'm sure it'll be fine, but I could add the sugars while the yeast are active, to get to what the recipe really was. 

I'm wondering about the best way to sanitize it, and I'd think extracting some of the fermenting beer, add the sugar, do a 10 minute boil, cool it, and add it back into the fermenter, would be best.  I could just use more tap water, but the fermenter is rather full, and I also don't want to dilute it.  It is just "clean" sugar, maybe I can just stir it into the fermenting beer?  Thoughts?  --  Dave King, BIER

Ingredients / Oak a Chocolate Imperial Stout
« on: February 12, 2013, 04:27:28 PM »
I’m considering oaking my Chocolate Imperial Stout.  I have 6 oz. of Light toast American White Oak.  Do you think the chocolate and oak flavors would be OK together?  The beer is finished, after 3 weeks in the primary, 9% ABV, I probably should rack it before oaking for a couple weeks, right?  I'm thinking about toasting the oak to about a medium level before using it, which would sanitize it, too.  Thanks, see you all in Philly in June.
    Dave King, BIER

Ingredients / 1st Wet Dry Hop of 2011
« on: July 06, 2011, 08:41:26 PM »
1st wet dry hop of some homebrew for this season, in Endicott, NY. These are Fuggles, not very aromatic. The Cascades have a few weeks to go before they're ready.

Mod Edit - We'll see if this works - please note you have to link directly to the jpg, not the image with all the html cruft. Also, facebook is a little wonky for sharing pics since it wants people to be logged into facebook

Ingredients / Hop Drying with a Food Dehydrator
« on: May 27, 2011, 09:08:44 PM »
My wife just bought a Dehydrator and Jerky Maker.  It's got 4 trays, and will reportedly heat to 95F.  I normally hoist hops on window screens up into the garage roof rafters for drying my home grown Cascades and Fuggles, but the dehydrator might work.  I'm wondering if it's 4 trays are not much room.  Anyone have experience with one?   --  Dave

General Homebrew Discussion / Camping at San Diego NHC
« on: December 08, 2010, 06:02:12 PM »
We are driving out to the San Diego NHC in June, and asked about RV camping at the Town & Country.  They say it's fine, $30/night in their lot.  That way we don't have to drive after a full day of sampling.

We'll be there a few days early, to check out the local beer scene.  Let us know if you're interested in joining the camp!      8)

    Dave King, President of BIER, Pvt in the BN Army

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