Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - yugamrap

Pages: [1]
General Homebrew Discussion / Stoopid Polar Vortex!
« on: January 22, 2014, 09:05:43 PM »
This polar vortex thing is driving me nuts.  It's probably not going to make it over 20 F here for a couple weeks.  That's messing with my brewing schedule, and I'm going to be behind on my Maibock. >:(  The temperature I can deal with - it's the lousy wind chill that's keeping me from brewing outdoors.  It's time for some more small batch BIAB experiments on the stove, I guess.


Kegging and Bottling / Dedicated tap / lines for sours?
« on: November 27, 2013, 10:10:59 PM »
I've recently brewed my first couple sour beers - a Berliner Weisse and a Flanders Red - and want to put one of them on tap.  Do I need to designate one of my faucets and lines as "sours only," or will a thorough cleaning after the keg blows be adequate to allow the line and faucet to be used for "non-sour" beers?  What is the practice among craft brew bars and brewpubs?  I can't imagine that they change out their faucets and lines.  My thinking is that the faucet can be cleaned, but that it wouldn't be a bad idea to dedicate a beer line to sours and change it out if/when I use that faucet for "non-sour" beers.  I know bottling is an option, but I'd prefer to keg.

Yeast and Fermentation / Help with Berliner Weisse
« on: June 19, 2013, 05:06:18 PM »
I have a Berliner Weisse fermenting and am new to the style so I need some help deciding when to rack it.  It's been in primary for about 10 days.  I pitched a pack of Wyeast 5335 Lactobacillus on brew day (6/8/13), let that run soloat 72F to get some souring going, then gradually cooled to 66F and pitched a smack-pack of Wyeast 1007 German Ale six days later (6/14/13).  The lacto fermentation was VERY active and when I added the 1007 it really took off, too.  As of last night (6/18/13) fermentation activity has subsided without any activity in the airlock for a couple days - still at 66F.

I know the lacto will keep working a while and continue souring, but I think that the 1007 is probably done.  There is still a little krausen and some gooey lacto stuff on the top of the beer and it hasn't dropped very clear yet.  I'm planning to keg the beer and force carbonate.  Should I wait for the krausen and lacto goo to drop before I rack?  Is it better to rack sooner to carry over some lacto and maybe a little 1007 to keep working?  I can let the beer drop clear in the keg then push to another keg for serving later.

The OG was 1.031.  I'd expect that the 1007 alone would take it to around 1.010, and that the lacto will take the gravity below that as it eats up the remaining dextrines.  If it's held at around 1.010 for a couple days is that a good enough indicator that it's okay to rack?

The Pub / R.I.P. in style Weazletoe...
« on: March 29, 2012, 08:31:53 PM »
...Hopefully you won't need it soon, but:

Equipment and Software / Finally finished my brew cart
« on: June 28, 2011, 02:11:11 AM »
I finally finished my brew cart build, and broke it in with a 10-gallon batch of cream ale this past weekend. It's a converted factory cart I got at a surplus yard. I had a friend weld a couple custom drop-in burner frames and add some channel strut for mounting gas pipe, conduit and copper water lines.

The cart holds the hot liquor tank and brew kettle, as well as my March pump. I use a 60-qt Igloo Ice Cube as my mash tun -it sits on a small table next to the cart on brew day. All of the vessels, the pump and the high-temperature hoses (not pictured) are fitted with brass quick-disconnects. It is set up so that I can just connect an extension cord, RV water hose, and propane tank and all the switches and valves I need are on the cart - including two water valves on the mast for filling kettles, and supply to the immersion chiller. There's a third water valve at the bottom for a short garden hose used for clean-up.

All the electrical boxes are "wet-location" type with compression-fitted EMT conduit. There are two switches that switch two outlets in a single-gang box (one for the March pump, a second for a fountain pump used to recirculate ice water for chilling). There's a second single-gang box with two non-switched outlets for other electrical stuff like the drill I use for aerating with a Mix-Stir.

The cart is fitted with 1/2" black pipe, an adjustable regulator, and needle valves to supply the two 70,000 BTU burners. Eventually, I'd like to concert to natural gas - but that will be a while in the future.

What an improvement over the Rube Goldberg setup I used to set up and take down every brew day!

Equipment and Software / Help with brew cart propane lines & fittings
« on: March 10, 2011, 10:18:03 PM »
I posted this over at the NB Forum, but thought I'd try here, too.  I'm working on getting my brew cart fitted-out. It will have two burners like this What I need help with is the connection between the burners and 1/4" needle valves like these  I'd prefer to use something flexible like pneumatic hose. So, I think it will be something like a MFL x barb fitting at the burner end and 1/4" FPT x barb at the valve end.

The propane pressure will already be knocked-down by the regulator at the tank before it goes to the needle valves. So, is it okay to use 3/8" pneumatic hose secured to the barbs with hose clamps or oetiker clamps? Do I need to use something else? What have others used?

Equipment and Software / Valves for Propane Trim on Brew Cart?
« on: July 22, 2010, 06:18:20 PM »
I'm finally starting the build on my brew cart.  It will have one propane tank attached to a manifold feeding two of these burners.   I'll mostly have just one burner running at a time, but I need to be able to trim both burners independently - mainly for convenience.  I'm not automating anything, so I don't need solenoid-type gas valves - just something hand-operated.

My first thought is to use the 1/4-turn valves used as shut-offs for gas stoves and other gas appliances - but I'd like fairly good control, and I'm not sure whether a 1/4-turn valve would provide that.  What kind of valves have others used?  Needle valves?  1/4-turn ball valves?  Other suggestions?  Any suggestion on pipe and valve size for the manifold?  I'm thinking 3/8" or 1/2" brass or black pipe should be fine.  

Kegging and Bottling / Convert / Reuse MIller Home Draft System?
« on: May 18, 2010, 08:03:23 PM »
Has anyone tried converting or reusing one of the Miller/Coors "Home Draft beer" systems for homebrew?  I'm tempted to buy one and see if it would work for taking homebrew to a party that doesn't need a whole keg, or to use for smaller batches of cask-style ales.  My mom's guy friend (70 yrs old) likes Miller lite, so I think he'd be happy to spare me having to "empty" the thing before experimenting with it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Traveling from OH to OK with kegged beer...
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:21:25 PM »
I'm going to visit family in Oklahoma for Thanksgiving, and they've asked whether I'll be bringing some beer.  When they visited me this summer, we (16 of us) wiped out a corny keg of cream ale in one afternoon - so I don't think taking a couple sixers of bottles is going to get it done, and I'm thinking about taking a keg.  We'll be driving through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri and Oklahoma.

Is anyone aware of specific legal issues with transporting this quantity of 5.5% ABV beer packaged in this way across State lines?  I'm not selling it or distributing it - just taking it to my uncle's house for Thanksgiving.  I know it's likely that I'd "fly under the radar" anyway, but I'd like to know whether it's worth the bother.  I suppose I could bottle some beer off of my kegs, but I can move more beer in less space if it's in a keg.

Pages: [1]