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Messages - yugamrap

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Equipment and Software / Re: Using a pump
« on: January 05, 2010, 06:58:59 AM »
In reference to the posted link, why does it say "This is the real deal" when comparing the side inlet vs the center inlet? Does it make a difference other than aesthetics? I would think I could just install an elbow into the center inlet model and till get same effect.

And also, is $130 pretty much the going rate for the March pump?
I don't think the inlet orientation (center vs. side) makes any difference in the pump's performance - it would just affect how you configure it for your system.  The $130 price was the best I found at the time for the 809-HS with a plug and cord.

Equipment and Software / Re: What to do with a 40gal SS kettle?
« on: January 05, 2010, 06:53:28 AM »
It might make a nice fermenter.  Maybe you could rig up some way to pump refrigerated water or glycol through the jacket for temperature control.

Equipment and Software / Re: Using a pump
« on: January 04, 2010, 02:13:46 PM »
What kind of pumps are you all using?  I've seen the March 809 recommended.  Any good sources for a nice pump that you know of?
I just got a March 809-HS from "Santa."  One of his elves told me he got it here:

I don't use a grant - I connect the pump to a QD fitting on my mash tun.  I prime the pump with the 1/2" mash tun valve wide open and the valve on the pump outlet mostly closed, and leave it this way during vorlauf.  Then, I gradually open the pump valve until wide open for running off into the boil kettle.

Ingredients / Re: Best Hallertau Substitute
« on: January 04, 2010, 01:55:51 PM »

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 1/2 barrel to boiling pot conversion
« on: January 04, 2010, 01:43:23 PM »
came out good.  angle grinder.  no water just the stale beer that was leeft in it.  still wanna tune up the edges more....or thats what my arm told me after i washed it.   ouch.
A Dremel with a grinding attachment works well for cleaning up the rough edges.

Ingredients / Re: Raspberry beer flavoring extract
« on: January 04, 2010, 07:46:14 AM »
Haven't used it but have always heard to go with real fruit over the xtract. Supposedly the Oregon Fruit puree is the way to go. Add it to the secondary - general rule of thump is 1-2lbs of fruit per gallon.
I've used the Oregon Fruit puree with pleasing results in a Raspberry American Wheat recipe.  I used a whole 49 oz can of puree in a 6 gallon batch.  After the primary calmed down, I racked the beer onto the puree in a carboy for 1 week of secondary.  Be aware that, if you use the fruit puree, the color of the beer will change substantially.  With the raspberry puree, the beer was fairly pinkish in color.  I added some biscuit and honey malt to the recipe, and the beer had a bit of a raspberry pastry flavor - the biscuit and honey malt gave it a hint of pie crust.   

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: questions
« on: January 03, 2010, 09:02:58 AM »
+1 on the previous comments.  Once you have the basics down, temperature control is a good step.  I think the biggest jump in the overall quality of the beers I brew came when I got fermentation temperatures under good control.  Another good area to address is assuring you're pitching good healthy yeast in sufficient quantities - the Mr. Malty webpage is a big help in this regard.

Well, the most interesting for me was a Jolly Rancher American Wheat.  I made it for our club's "Strange Brew" contest where we drew "strange" ingredients (e.g., licorice, oysters, marshmallow fluff, Jolly Rancher candies, etc.) from a hat.  It tasted pretty good and took 3rd in the contest out of about 20 entries.  The color was pretty weird, though - a little greenish-gray, because I used the Blue Raspberry Jolly Ranchers.

The beer I was most pleased with was a batch of Amber Ale I made with my first harvest of homegrown hops.  It probably wasn't the best beer I made in 2009, but I was really pleased with the results and my family killed the keg in just a few days around Thanksgiving.  I think the best beers I made in 2009 were a batch of Altbier, and one of ESB.  I think the overall quality of all my beers improved over last year as I improved my ability to control fermentation and lagering temperatures, and made other improvements to my brewing techniques and practices.

The Pub / Re: Name My Pub
« on: December 30, 2009, 10:22:11 AM »
How about "The Broken Tooth Brewing Company"?  Broken Tooth (Katawabeda) was perhaps the most celebrated Chief of the Chippewa (Ojibwe) people.  See here:

You might also consider something river ("The Barge Inn"), or railroad ("The End Of The Line") related, as these would provide a lot of other terms and phrases that could be used to give themed names to your beers.

Ingredients / Re: Carafa needed in an alt?
« on: December 30, 2009, 09:33:02 AM »
You could also use CaraMunich III for color.  I use 4 oz in a 6-gallon batch with 6 lbs Munich, 2 lbs Pilsen, and 1 lb CaraRed.  I hop with 3 oz Spalt at 60 min and 1 oz Spalt at 5 min.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Practices for Stepping Up a Starter
« on: December 30, 2009, 09:05:24 AM »
Using a stir bar in a gal. jug has never worked for me.  YMMV.


It's an old Martini Rossi wine jug.  It has a convex center that throws the stir bar every time.

I must have gotten lucky when my son saved me this Carlo Rossi jug after a house party at college.  It has a convex bottom, but works fine with a 2" stir bar.  I got REALLY lucky when I found the stir plate (Fisher "Flexa-Mix") at a local industrial salvage place for $5.00.

That's a 1.75 L starter - I have a 3 L starter stirring right now that's gone 36 hours without throwing the bar (it's time to put it in the fridge for tomorrow).  The trick seems to be to start with a slow speed and gradually increase - especially with larger starters.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chilling experiment
« on: December 29, 2009, 07:59:26 AM »
Your recirculation technique will work better if you can get the ice out of the bottles and break it up into smaller chunks.  This will provide greater surface area for heat exchange, and reduce the barrier effect of the cold, but no longer frozen, water in the bottles.  I have a bunch of plastic containers with lids from shredded cheese and won ton soup.  Some are 1/2-quart and some are 1-quart, and they can be stacked in the freezer.  On brew day, I put some water in the cooler that I use for recirculation.  Then, I give each ice container a brief dip in the water to help release the ice.  Once the ice is out, I break it into smaller pieces with a hammer, and add it to the cooler.

Equipment and Software / Re: Cooler woes.
« on: December 29, 2009, 07:48:42 AM »
I'll probably look at the lid. Bet it isn't insulated. Blankets or towels hmmm....
I'm not sure about the cooler you have, but many coolers have no insulation in the lid.  This is easily addressed by drilling a few small holes in the lid and filling it with expanding foam insulation from a can.  It's sold under the brand name "Great Stuff."  I used it to fill the lid of my 60-qt Igloo, and it helped.  I still cover & wrap the mash tun with a couple blankets when the weather is cold, though.  I'm brewing outside tomorrow, and the forecast is for a high of 22F.   

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA Membership
« on: December 26, 2009, 05:46:22 PM »
I'm a member now - my son got me a gift membership for Christmas.   ;D

Equipment and Software / Re: Light bulb in fridge to control temp.
« on: December 16, 2009, 11:48:56 AM »
I have done the same with a low watt bulb in the temp controlled chest freezer (in the unheated garage) during the winter months.  I usually ferment in steel or plastic, and have not have any skunking issues.  Given that the chest freezer is well insulated a very small source such as a night light or 15 watt lamp is enough. 
+1  I do the same thing to keep my fermenting fridge and my serving fridge (both are in my unheated garage) from getting too cold in the winter.  I use 15-watt bulbs in reading lamps in the bottom of the fridges.  This provides just enough heat that the temperature control will cycle the fridge to run occasionally.

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