Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - yugamrap

Pages: 1 ... 17 18 [19] 20 21 ... 23
Equipment and Software / Re: Easy vorlauf
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:44:37 PM »
Like Denny, I've never had an issue with gently pouring wort back into the MLT.  Since I recently got a pump, I use it (with the output trimmed by a ball valve) to recirculate and run the pump's output hose into a plastic bowl sitting on top of the grain bed. Once the wort clears, I move the output hose to the boil kettle and open the valve some more.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Do You Prime Your Kegs?
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:31:07 PM »
I've done it a few times with Hefeweizen since it's a style that's expected to be cloudy.  For other beers, I force carbonate.

Equipment and Software / Re: Propane Burners
« on: February 02, 2010, 07:14:19 PM »
There is a review on this burner that states that kettles made out of kegs do not sit properly on it.  Has anyone had this difficulty?

I used a half-barrel keg on mine once but didn't feel comfortable with it. The keg base is just barely larger in diameter than the burner ring, so it's precarious and has to be kept perfectly centered.
Get a barbecue grate or a sheet of non-galvanized expanded metal and put that between the keg and the burner.  That'll keep the keg steady.

Equipment and Software / Re: Anybody use this?
« on: February 02, 2010, 07:00:31 PM »
I tried that one, but I like this one better:  It doesn't have the reload delay, shows style guidelines as ranges, and has nice links to the BJCP style guideline descriptions.

Equipment and Software / Re: Manifold vs. Screen/Braid
« on: February 02, 2010, 06:55:42 PM »
I have a CPVC manifold that I use in both of my MLTs, and it works great.  I batch sparge, and also use a pump to vorlauf and move wort to my boil kettle.  I haven't used a braid, so I can't make any direct observations as to whether either works better in my system.  However, I know some brewers who do use braids and, as Denny said, the wort seems to clear a little faster.  I went with the manifold because I already had the CPVC around the house, and because I hadn't come across the braid idea yet.  I'm sure you'd be happy with either a braid or a manifold - it's really a matter of preference and how much tinkering you want to do.

Equipment and Software / Re: stainless steel tubing
« on: February 02, 2010, 06:43:27 PM »
Go here and get3/8" or 1/2" refrigeration tubing.  You can bend it by wrapping it around a corny keg or other appropriately-sized cylinder.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Organics
« on: February 02, 2010, 06:24:01 PM »
store crushing -- bad idea?
Not necessarily.  It might be just that you have to adjust your grain bill to compensate for a different grind at the shop.  Or perhaps you return to your old methods; whatever works best and/or is easiest for you.
If you'd rather not adjust your recipes or buy more grain, you could try to address the crush issue directly.  I saw about a 10% increase in my brewhouse efficiency when I bought my own mill and started crushing my own grain instead of using pre-crushed grain.  My mill (Barley Crusher) gap is set to at 0.030.  So, the next time you're at the store, ask if their mill is adjustable, and if they'd let you adjust it.  It may be that their mill setting is not as tight as it could be.  See what their setting is and maybe tighten it up by 0.005" or so (or at least down to 0.035").  An inexpensive feeler gauge from the auto parts store and the appropriate screwdriver are all the tools you should need.  When you're done, you can return the mill to its original gap setting so others are not affected by the change.  If the store's mill isn't adjustable, or if they won't let you adjust it, another option is to try running your grain through the mill twice to get a somewhat finer crush.

Ingredients / Re: Campden Tablets for Chloramine Removal
« on: January 24, 2010, 03:33:41 AM »
I use 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons.

I sure hope that the powdered stuff is way way less dense than the tablets.  A 1/4 teaspoon would hold several tablets and the normal dose is only a quarter of a tablet per five gallons.
It is considerably cheaper, but it looks like I'd better re-check my math on the quantity...  :-[

Ingredients / Re: Campden Tablets for Chloramine Removal
« on: January 22, 2010, 04:11:12 PM »
You might want to consider skipping the tablets and using the powdered Sodium Metabisulfite.  It's a little cheaper, and easier to use for amounts of water that aren't in 5-gallon increments.  I'm not near my bottle but, if recollection serves, I use 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons.  I know that's not as accurate as weighing it out on a gram scale, but it's the closest approximation I can achieve without one.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: brewing....and music
« on: January 22, 2010, 03:59:29 PM »
Often, it's the local "classic rock"radio station, and sometimes a ballgame on the radio.  If not those, then probably something like Led Zeppelin, Zappa, King Crimson or other prog-rock.  The exception is when brewing German styles - I always bust out the polka and German brass band stuff for that.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How about least favorite style of beer?
« on: January 22, 2010, 03:43:30 PM »
Spice, Herb, Vegetable
+1 to this.  Also, I'm inclined to add "bottled commercial beers" to my list.  I'm too often disappointed because they've been somehow mistreated before I get them - old, oxidized, light struck....

All Grain Brewing / Re: First stuck mash: batch sparge
« on: January 14, 2010, 02:33:05 PM »
I've had a couple very slow run-offs where the problem was that doughy/pasty protein, called "teig," that you saw on top of the grain bed.  In both cases, the teig was so dense that the wort was just sitting on top of it and not flowing down through the grain bed.  The solution for me was to "cut" the grain bed while sparging.  I use the edge of a long spoon or my mash paddle and cut down through the grain bed in a criss-cross pattern.  As long as you stay an inch or so above your braid (or manifold in my case) as you cut, there will still be an adequate filter matrix at the bottom of the tun and the runnings will stay clear.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cleaning
« on: January 14, 2010, 02:21:54 PM »
OxyClean, Star San and BKF.

Pimp My System / Re: Some of my stuff
« on: January 13, 2010, 05:02:31 PM »
So the grist hopper/stirrer is for mashing in and stirring the mash, right?  Does the converted plastic drum MLT hold temperature during the mash pretty well, or do you use a RIMS or HERMS?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: wort chiller
« on: January 13, 2010, 04:50:36 PM »
If your IC has garden hose fittings, the item in the link in hokerer's post will work.  Since it's out of stock, you can probably find what you need at a Home Depot or Loew's.  If you don't have garden hose fittings, take a piece of the hose to the store with you and go to the plumbing department.  You'll need a hose barb that fits your hose, and then some sort of fitting to adapt from the hose barb to your faucet.  Another way to do it is to use a short piece of an inner tube and a couple hose clamps to adapt from the faucet to the hose barb.

Pages: 1 ... 17 18 [19] 20 21 ... 23