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Messages - Joe Sr.

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 25, 2017, 05:17:07 PM »
I used a whole packet when I did it.

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 25, 2017, 12:12:22 PM »
Nope, 80 is absolutely the highest I'd go.

Agreed.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 25, 2017, 09:37:39 AM »
I assumed he was opening to add something.  But maybe opening and leaving it is what he meant...

If I opened it and left it, I'd do what Denny suggests but I'd also try to warm it.  I don't think opening it will do enough on it's own.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: High alcohol tolerant yeast
« on: April 25, 2017, 09:36:14 AM »
I've gone that high with 1968.  As Mort says, warm it up as it finishes.  I've also done side-by-sides with 1968 and US-05 and they perform similarly as far as attenuation.  Side-by-side as well with 1968 and a Notty/Windsor blend.  I really like the Notty/Windsor blend, but I do not like Nottingham alone.

I think the keys are a big pitch of yeast, oxygenate, simple sugar as a portion of your recipe, and letting the fermentation free rise after a couple days.

I've also had good luck with 1084, which I typically use for my imperial stout (1.90 +/-).  The last batch I think I used US-05 since I had it handy.  Again, similar performance although different impacts on flavor.

TL;DR - US-05 or a Nottingham/Windsor blend (one packet of each).

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 25, 2017, 08:17:31 AM »
Question:  If I open up the fermenter up at this point to try and get it restarted am I risking anything?  Traveling this week for work, so I won't transfer before the weekend so I'm tempted to leave it at 80 (where it's been the last week), then crash when I return home on Friday and keg on Saturday.  Thoughts?

I guess that depends on how you plan to get it restarted.  For my stalled batch all it took was a week in a hot water bath.  I had also prepared an active starter to pitch, but turned out not needing it.

One thing you can try (and should) is to pull a hydrometer sample of the beer and do a fast fermentation test.  You can pitch a packet of bread yeast into it or, if you prefer, pitch the same yeast your using but pitch a bunch.  Give it a day or so and see if it ferments out at all.  That's the best way to know if you're stalled or finished.

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast washing/harvesting question
« on: April 24, 2017, 02:38:24 PM »
I agree.

Keep the caps loose.  Or open them every couple of days to release pressure.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 24, 2017, 09:36:08 AM »
I've had 3787 stall.  Recently.  Time and temp got it going again, but it took a good week at higher temps (78 or so) to get any noticeable activity.

My fermenter is not sealed beyond a typical airlock, though.

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast
« on: April 21, 2017, 05:31:21 PM »
Blanche de Chambly is lower abv. But I enjoy la fin much more.

9
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast
« on: April 21, 2017, 02:48:48 PM »
So I take it, 3864 will not be released this year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not as far as I know.
My own fault for not harvesting some from my starter. First time I didn't do that in who knows how long, and it had to be a PC. Maybe I'll find someone that keeps it, probably a long shot. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where are you at in Indy?  I think I have a slurry in my fridge, along with a slurry harvested from La Fin Du Monde.  I haven't found the two to be any different, but YMMV.

10
Classifieds / Re: steel kegs for sale
« on: April 07, 2017, 01:36:26 PM »
There's a reason they're only $8.

11
IME, it all depends on the specific item.  Some stuff is cheaper, some wildly more expensive (usually the smaller hardware pieces).  I try to buy local, and the convenience of walking in and picking up whatever you need the day before brew day can't be beat, but often for big orders I'll price it out on-line and locally and see where it comes out.

We've got >10% sales tax over by here, which can get pricey quickly.  At least for equipment.  I'm not sure what taxes apply to grains, etc. but I'm sure they get well taxed.

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Karate chopping auto siphon
« on: April 06, 2017, 10:02:11 AM »
Never used an autosiphon.  Always hated siphoning.  Rigged up my aquarium pump to the carboy years ago to start the siphon, moved on to closed transfers with CO2.  Still hate siphoning.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Learning about yeast
« on: April 06, 2017, 09:53:22 AM »
I really don't know anything about yeast and pitching yeast when it comes to brewing beer.  So, I'm looking for good articles or post on here for a Newb?  As far as equipment goes, I do have a 1,000 ml pyrex flask and it looks as though I will be needing a stir plate.  Recommendations on a decent but inexpensive stir plate would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

In it's simplest form, using 1 liter/quart of 1.030 wort plus your liquid yeast in a half gallon growler about 8-24 hours in advance of pitching will suffice.  Get your chilled and sanitary wort into the growler, add the yeast, put the lid on and shake the sh!t out of it until it's super foamy; then remove the lid and put an airlock or sanitized aluminum on the opening; wait until the starter is forming good krausen/foam on top and pitch into your 5 gallons of wort.  The timing may vary depending on several variables but usually 12-18 hours is sufficient, but it may go as quick as 8 or as long as 24 (or more depending).

I agree that this is a good way to start.  It may also be as far as you need to go.  Keep in mind, bigger beers need more yeast.

Another thing to keep in mind is that some of us have been brewing for a long time and, as Denny noted, have gone through various different methods of growing/pitching yeast.  A lot of us also have a few favorite strains we've used over and over.  My point being that we've likely grown accustomed to the yeast performance and we're able to judge whether or not we have enough yeast for what we are brewing, regardless of the mechanism we use to grow it (stir plate, SNS, etc.).  There's no substitute for experience.  However, reading as much as you can will help.  I'd check out the yeast calculators at least to get an understanding of them even if you never use them (I never have).  I'd also read the SNS threads.  There's a TON of info there.  I haven't used my stir plates in a couple years.

14
Beer Recipes / Re: Denny's Golden Monkey Homage
« on: April 06, 2017, 09:34:33 AM »
I used the candy sugar back in the early/mid90s but have not used it since the syrup products have become available.

Other than table sugar, you can also have some fun experimenting with demarara, sucanat, jaggery, etc.  Each one will lend something a little bit different but many of those differences are very subtle so you might only notice them in a blonde or tripel.

I use table sugar in many beers, but I brew a lot of high OG beers.  When you've got a big beer, sugar is very helpful in hitting a good final gravity and having a beer that's quaffable.  Not that I'm quaffing a lot of 10% stouts, but I like to think I could.

15
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: How to harvest yeast
« on: April 05, 2017, 09:01:31 AM »
I've used yeast from a stout in a pale beer.  However, I built up a starter so I wasn't pitching any of the stout liquid into the pale beer.  I didn't notice any carryover, but I suppose it all depends on how you do it.

As far as the OP, I do pretty much exactly what Denny does.  Only difference is I use 1 liter plastic beverage containers.  I think they're rubbermaid.  If pressure builds up, the top will pop open, which is nice.  I rarely fill more than one container when I'm collecting yeast as I typically build up starters because I don't brew as often as I'd like.

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